SIMY DAYS ABROAD; 



OS, 



The Old Woeld Seen with 
Young Eyes. 



mf 



^g^^^i,:,.^ AM^^^^'iA'yL^y' 



New- York : 

No. 2 Bible House. 



THB LIBRARY 
OF CONGRESS 

WASHINGTON- 



El tored according to Act of Congress, in the year 1873, b; 

Thomas Whittakeb, 

In the ofiBce of the Librariau of Congress, at Washington. 



ST. JOHNLAND STEREOilPK rOtTS<"D«T, SnFFOI,K CO., N. t. 



TO 

THIS BECOED OP MUTUAL EXPEEIENCK 

IN FOEEIGN LANDS 

IS APFECTIONATELT INSCEIBED 

BY 

HBB MOTHEB. 



PREFACE. 



rPHE following pages were originally written that 
-*- friends at liome might share ia the pleasure 
enjoyed by a party visiting Europe. They were 
desigTied, also, to keep the incidents and impres- 
sions of that visit alive in the memory of one 
member of the party, whose young eyes for the 
first time looked upon the strange scenes, and 
the wonders of nature and art, which everywhere 
abound in the old world. 

They are simply a jotting down of ordinary 
events and sight-seeings, and if the " couleur de 
rose " seems to pervade everything, it is because 
nothing occurred to mar our pleasure, and it was 
difficult to prevent that hue from becoming the 
predomiaant one. 



b PEEFACE. 

To those wlio have been abroad, it is always 
pleasant to learn the experience of others, and 
thus recall their own enjoyment ; while for those 
who are anticipating a tour ia foreign lands, it is 
hoped this book may contain some useful sugges- 
tions. 

0. C. J. DYER. 




CONTENTS. 



Page 

On the WiNa 7 

Liverpool, , , . 15 

London, 19 

Paris, . 43 

Genoa, 47 

Florence, 53 

Rome. . 63 

Naples, 83 

Pompeii, 87 

Sorrento, 91 

Milan, 93 

Bellagio, 99 

Venice, 103 

Verona, 110 

Munich, , 113 

Zurich, 135 

Lucerne, 138 

Interlachen, 130 

The Faulhorn, 136 

Berne, 141 

Geneva, 147 

Chamouny. 153 

Vevay 156 



CONTENTS. 

Page 

Basle, 161 

Strasburg, 164 

Baden-Baden, ....... 166 

Heidelberg, 169 

Frankfort, 174 

HOMBURG, . , 175 

Cologne 176 

Brussells, 180 

Paris 184 

Rouen, . , 195 

Havre, , 197 

Newport, Isle op Wight, ..... 198 

London, 205 

Leamington, 211 

Stratford on iivoN, 215 

Birmingham, 219 

York, 226 

Melrose, Scotland, 228 

Edinburgh, . , 235 

Stirling, 241 

Glasgow, , . 244 

Ayr, 251 

Windermere, 253 

Keswick, 256 

Liverpool, . = 258 

Llangollen, 259 

Homeward Bound, 261 



THE OLD WORLD 
SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 



Steameb Russia, Bay of New York, ) 
April 22, 18— [ 

WE are almost "on the wing." So I com- 
mence at once to fulfil my promise of 
keeping a faithful record. The day is bright and 
warm, and the sea so smooth and calm that it 
seems to beckon us onward. Our steamer, too 
is all we can desire ; and among the ninety-five 
passengers there are many who will not fail to 
add to the enjoyment of the voyage. As I sit 
writing in the saloon, the genial face of Mr. 
Charles Dickens peeps in, and I am rejoiced to 
see amongst us that large-hearted man, whose 
writings have given so much pleasure, and been 
the solace of many a weary heart. 

The fsaloon is fragrant with the flowers which 



8 THE OLD WOELD 

have been sent as loving farewells to many on 
board, and thus a delicious odor of the shore 
mingles with the fresh air of the sea. One of 
Mr. Dickens' baskets is very magnificent, being 
about three feet long, and filled with the most 
gorgeous flowers, exquisitely arranged. In the 
centre is the word "Farewell," composed of 
small white flowers, upon a scarlet ground, while 
beneath are the initials, "C. D." But the cluster 
of pure Easter lihes sent to us by our kmd friend, 
Mrs. A., are loveher and fairer than all, for with 

these 

" The altar's lawn, 

At morning's dawn, 
We deck at Easter-tide — 

To teU of Him 
Who liveth, though He died !" 

Thursday, April 23. 
A pleasant morning and a fair wind. Had a 
good opportunity to arrange our state-rooms, 
which are funny little places enough, with then- 
small round port-holes for windows, their narroAV 
shelves for beds, and a rack fastened firmly above 
the washing slab, containing bottles and tumblers ; 
this firm fastening suggesting the uncomfort- 
able idea of rolling seas, and dismal weather. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 9 

The ship is most admirably arranged and 
appointed, in every respect — the service prompt 
and efficient — the table bountifully supplied, and 
everything seems done to secure the safety and 
conifort of the passengers. At twelve o'clock 
we had made two hundred and sixty-four miles, 
having left at half-past three yesterday. The 
day has been charming in every respect, and 
most of the passengers were on deck. In the 
evening we assembled in the saloon, where there 
was some reading, some talking, some playing of 
whist, and much drinking of brandy. 

Friday, April 24. 
"Alack, for me 
When I was at sea !" 

Said Southey. A remark which I fully appre- 
ciated this morning, when the sky was overcast, 
and the sea so rough that nearly all the passen- 
gers kept their state-rooms, and I could hardly 
lift my head. But the afternoon again found me 
on deck, enjoying the fresh breeze, and walking 
up and down the whole length of the ship, which 
was now plunging from side to side, in a some- 
what frantic manner. How glorious it all was, 
and how I wondered that any one could help 
enjoying it ! 



10 THE OLD WORLD 

I never tired of watching the great green 
waves, with their snowy tops, rolling so far away, 
anrl seeming to break against the sky. I find 
our state-room, which looked so small at first 
has grown pretty large, now that everything is 
nicely stowed away. It really seems to have 
"expanded into something quite bulky, and 
almost boasts a bay-window to view the sea 
from," as our friend Mr. Boz wrote some years 
ago. So easy is it to adapt oneseK to circum- 
stances. 

Sunday, April 26. 

This bright, pleasant morning found us crossing 
the Banks, and the sea was so calm that nearly 
all the passengers were able to assemble in the 
cabin for Divine service. Prayers were read by 
the surgeon of the ship, and all present joined in 
the service, attentively, if not devoutly. It did 
not seem a mere form, but a proper recognition 
of our dependence upon God. Many of the 
sailors were present, looking very nicely in their 
blue uniforms, and hstening with attentive 
interest. No singing was attempted, it being a 
hazardous experiment at such a time. 

In the afternoon the wind commenced rising, 
and increased till midnight, by which time it 



SEEN WITH YOtJNG EYES. 11 

blew a perfect gale. The sea became very rough, 
and the ship rolled and pitched at a fearful rate. 
I can enjoy almost anything, I think, but found 
nothing specially pleasant during this uproarious 
night. Fortunately, the wind was favorable, and 
we made good progress. 

April 27. 

Had a pleasant conversation to-day with Mr. 
Dickens, who has been suffering much from his 
lame foot. He says, playfully, that he has " read 
himself off his legs," but speaks warmly of his 
" dehghtful " visit to our own beloved land, and 
of the great changes and improvements since his 
former visit. When I congratulated him that he 
had not encountered one of oiu: teiuible railroad 
accidents, he replied, "I don't pretend to deny 
that I had some fears, for ever since the accident 
in England where I had so narrow an escape, 
I have been extremely nervous." It is that 
terribly destructive accident on the South-eastern 
railway to which he alludes in "Our Mutual 
Friend," closing with this paragraph : 

" I remember with devout thankfulness that I 
can never be nearer parting company with my 
readers forever than I was then, until there shall 
bo written against my life the two words with 



12 THE OLD WORLD 

whicli I have this day closed this book — The 
End." 

Mr. Dickens told us that Gadshill, twenty 
miles from London, where he now resides, was 
associated with his boyhood, and for that reason 
he was strongly attached to the spot. That he 
has won the hearts of the people about him, is 
evident from the account Hans Christian 
Anderson gives of his charming visit there, and 
the affectionate regard with which his neighbors 
of the poorer class spoke of him. 

I was much struck with Mr. Dickens' devout 
manner during the religious services yesterday, 
and the earnestness of his responses in the 
beautiful Hturgy of the Church of England. 
Surely, one who has made so many hearts 
better and brighter, must indeed feel the vene- 
ration for the life and lessons of our Saviour» 
which he does not hesitate to avow. 

Friday, May 1. 

A beautiful morning, and all on deck watching 
for the light-houses and cliffs on the Ii-ish coast. 
Every one seemed very happy in the thought 
that the voyage was so nearly over, and that 
beautiful England was close at hand. 

My own feelings were, as Ai-tcmus Ward used 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 13 

to say, " very much mixed." Tiie whole voyage 

had been so thoroughly enjoyable that I had 

several tunes exclaimed, "how can any one say 

that it is disagreeable to be at sea ? I think it 

perfectly splendid, as school-girls say." My few 

hours of suffering were as nothing compared to 

my constant pleasure in watching the movements 

of the ship, the agility of the sailors, and the 

ocean itself, so wonderful and grand. Then, 

too, our pleasant fellow-travellers ; with whom I 

had read, and talked, and walked, and with whom 

I would gladly have been compelled to remain 

much longer. 

Eight days and a few hours, seemed quite too 

short a passage from New York to Liverpool, 

and 

"I 

Regained my freedom with a sigh ;" 

being an exception, I fancy, to most voyagers. 
Eight o'clock, and a bright moonht evening, 
found us at anchor in the Mersey, two miles 
below our destination ; and what a scene of 
confusion presented itself ! Waiters bringing up 
bags and baskets — ^ladies arranging cloaks and 
shawls— gentlemen pointing out their trunks to 
the Custom-house officers, who had come on 



14 THE OLD WOELD 

board — said officers asking questions, and looking 
wise, but passing the baggage very rapidly. As 
fast as an article was passed, and received tlio 
label, it was marked for the hotel to which the 
owner was going. This Babel continued for two 
mortal hours, but at last we were all on board 
the passenger tender, and as we steamed away, 
three rousing cheers were given for the grand 
old ship, three for the captain, and three for tho 
officers. 

When we drove up to the hotel, and the la,nd- 
lady came out with the bright ribbons on her 
cap, and a face beaming with smiles, a cajoital 
specimen of an EngHsh landlad}^, my heart per- 
fectly bounded with dehght. When I gave her 
my Easter hlies, stiU fresh and beautiful, telling 
her I had brought her some flowers from 
America, her face was brighter still. Then tho 
blazing coal fire — the throwing aside of ship 
clothing — the dehghtful feeling that the floor 
beneath you was secure, and would not suddenly 
become either the ceiling or the side of tho 
room — ^how pleasant it all was ; and I am afraid 
I almost forgot to be sorry that I had left tho 
beloved ship ! 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 15 

Liverpool, May 4. 

The morning after our arrival here found us 
so fresh and well, that we felt equal to almost 
anything ; so after our letters to the bankers 
were dehvered, we went to the Museum, a fine 
large structure, with a collection of natm-al 
history, statuary, paintings, and an excellent 
library. The Museum is entirely free — the 
princely gift of Sir WilHam Brown. We visited 
the reading-room about twelve o'clock, and found 
a hundred or more persons seated and reading. 
What a glorious thing it is to have money, and a 
disposition with it, to bestow it so nobly ! 

In the afternoon we had a lovely drive of 
eighteen miles about the suburbs of Liverpool. 
The trees are in full leaf, fruit trees in blossom, 
hedges very luxuriant, and the country looked 
like a garden. We passed some exqiiisite resi- 
dences and grounds ; among them, ChUdweU 
Abbey, an old country place of the Marquis of 
Salisbury — a quaint pile of buildings, with some 
grand old trees on the lawn, in front. The 
whole drive was enchanting, and we shall not 
soon forget this first glimpse of " Merrie Eng- 
land." 

On our return, there was a muster of the 



16 THE OLD WOULD 

Livei-pool volunteers — many tJiousands of them 
— and as they marched past our hotel, we had a 
very good opportunity of admiring their scarlet 
uniforms, which looked very brilliant in the 
Hght of the setting sun. After they had passed, 
a performance of Punch and Judy took place 
under our window, which amused us very much. 
It is really astonishing how much they can make 
those puj^pets do, and how like human beings in 
miniature they look and act, as they go through 
their various parts — sometimes fighting, and 
sometimes having the joUiest time imaginable. 
A little dog was one of the performers for us, 
and he looked very oddly, with a broad muslin 
ruff around his neck, and acted his part with a 
comic gravity which was perfectly irresistible. 

On Sunday we went to St. Bride's Church, 
with some kind friends. I felt that we were 
in a foreign land, when I saw the sexton sailing 
up and down the aisles in a long black gown, 
something like a clergyman's, only made of 
some worsted material. There are also some 
pecuharities in the service. Both creeds are 
repeated, although at different times. The 
clergyman gives out the number of the hjnnn, 
and the organist immediately commences playing 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 17 

the tune wliicli is to be sung, very simply, 
during the time the congregation are finding 
their places. Then the clergyman -again gives 
the number, reads the first two hnes, and the 
singing begins at once. There is also a short 
prayer — ^not a silent one, after the clergyman 
goes into the pulpit, and just before he gives out 
his teet. 

Sunday afternoon we visited the Blue-Coat 
Hospital, vrhich interested us very much. We 
were shown all over it, and admired the exquisite 
neatness evident everywhere we went. I do not 
think, however, that the arrangements were very 
much superior to many of our own charitable 
institutions, except the bathing faciUties, which 
were admirable. They have a large tank in 
which the children can be taught to swim, and 
the water can be let on to the depth of four or 
five feet, and dra^Ti off at pleasure. The in- 
stitution accommodates and supports two hun- 
dred and fifty boys and one hundi-ed girls, all of 
whom are dressed in the costume of the esta- 
"bHshment, and look oddly enough. 

The boys leave at fourteen years of age, and 
the girls at sixteen. The former wear an entire 
suit of very dark blue cloth, with a long tailed 
2 



18 THE OLD WOKIJD 

coat rounded in front like a quaker's. On their 
necks they wear a white cravat, without any 
collar, and clergymen's bands. It makes them 
look like a collection of Lilliputian clergymen ; 
and the garb itself has a tendency to give a 
serious expression to their faces, which one does 
not often see in young boys. The girls wear 
dark blue gowns which reach their ankles, and 
round white capes made of thick muslin. They 
all marched into the chapel, to the solemn music 
of the organ, and took their places very sys- 
tematically. The exercises were conducted by 
the children themselves, and consisted of singing, 
prayers, catechism, and recitation of portions of 
Scripture. The prayers were read — the hymns 
given out, and the questions of the catechism 
asked by boys selected for the purpose ; and it 
was really astonishing to hear their long answers 
without a single mistake. A great many noble 
men and women have been educated at this 
institution, who, but for its sheltering care, 
would have had no one to teach them the right 
way. 

In the evening we went to St. Mary's Church 
for the Blind, where they had a full choral 
service ; the blind being the singers. They sang 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 19 

beautifully, and it was very touching to hear 
their sweet voices, so full of thanksgiving, and 
remember that those sightless eyes had never 
seen the exquisite works of their Heavenly 
Father's hand. 

We feel that we have made much of Liverpool, 
which is not generally considered very interesting. 

London. 

Our journey here by way of the North-western 
railway was thoroughly pleasant, and the country 
beautiful in the extreme. The fruit trees were 
one mass of blossoms, and white cowshps, violets 
and other flowers covered the meadows. Every 
foot of ground seemed cultivated, while the 
hawthorn hedges which everywhere line the 
road, and separate the fields, and the multipUcity 
of trees, add greatly to the beauty of the scenery. 

We passed through many districts abounding 
in manufacturing estabhshments, with their 
tall chimneys emitting volumes of smoke. "WTiile 
at Rugby, we thought of the noble Doctor 
Arnold, who has made that place so famous, and 
of Tom Brown, who has so gracefully recorded 
his school-days there. We are now in pleasant 
quarters in the west end of London, and are 
living as comfortably and quietly as if we were 



20 ■ THE OLD WOELD 

in our own house. Our waiter looks so minis- 
terial in Ids white cravat, and serves us with an 
air of such thorough " respectability," that if it 
were necessary to address a note to him, I should 
be quite tempted to commence it in the pre- 
scribed clerical way, "Reverend Sir." 

The annual " May meetings " in Exeter Hall 
are an institution of London, and we were much 
interested, the day after our arrival, in attending 
the anniversary of the British and Foreign Bible 
Society, to which two American clergymen were 
delegates. Lord Shaftsbury was in the chau\ 
The Bishops of London and Carhsle spoke very 
earnestly, and we were glad to hear oiu* dear 
friend. Dr. F. loudly applauded when he said 
emphatically, "There is power enough in Pro- 
testant truth any time, and anywhere, to conquer 
Romanism. I am sure I cannot mistake the 
sentiment of every true Britain, as I know I do 
not mistake the sentiment of every true American, 
when I say, an open field, a fair fight, and God 
heliJ the right!" Lord Shaftsbury 's earnest 
words about America, and the strong desire that 
there should never be anything but peace between 
his land and ours, seemed to express the wish 
of the entire audience. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 21 

We have had a pleasant evening with Mrs. 
Eanyardj who has been so useful among the 
poor in London, and whose books " The Missing 
Link," and "The Book and its Story," have 
given so much information and pleasui-e. From 
a httle work which she gave us, called " London, 
and Ten Tears Work in it," we learn how won- 
derful has been the success of the Bible women 
in teaching the poor and degraded the best and 
most useful kind of knowledge, the way to help 
themselves. 

As we passed through a part of the famous 
St. Giles, on our way to Mrs. E.'s, we saw, even 
yet, an amount of squaHd poverty which was 
sickening. The contrast between it and the 
splendor and display at the Queen's drawing- 
room the next day, was very striking. 

There were superb equipages, gay liveries, 
footmen and coachmen, generally four on a 
carriage, with bouquets large enough for breast- 
plates ; beautiful women sparkHng with diamonds, 
and everything else that wealth and rank can 
give. The Prince of Wales was attended by a 
troop of horsemen, the band playing " God save 
the King," and his coachmen and footmen fairly 
gleamed with gold lace. He bowed very plea- 



22 THE OLD WOELD 

santly to tlie crowd, and looks like an amiable 
young man, wliatever he may be in reality. In 
the midst of all this elegance, we were much 
surprised at the freedom of a well-dressed man, 
who walked past the carriages of my Lord This, 
and my Lady That, exclaiming at the top of his 
voice, "All this comes out of our pockets. O, 
yes, we pay for all this." Although he uttered 
this many times, no notice was taken of it by the 
host of policemen who were standing about, to 
keep order, and he was allowed to pass un- 
molested. 

The people are quite delighted that the Queen 
is again appearing in public, and crowds were 
assembled to see her on her way to lay the 
foundation stone of a new hospital, the day 
following the di'awing-room reception. She was 
in an open barouche, with the Princess Cln-istian 
by her side, and the pretty httle Princess Beatrice, 
with her long golden hair floating in crimj)s 
oyer her shoiilders, seated in front of her. 
Prince Leopold made a very handsome Scotch 
laddie in his Tartan dress. The Queen, in her 
simple black bonnet, bowed constantly to the 
right and left, but the expression of her face 
was decidedly sad, and there was no smile. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 23 

After the royal procession had passed, we went 
to Mortlake, a few miles from London, where we 
had been invited to lunch with a charming 
family, whose names are associated with the best 
and noblest of the land. Near their pleasant 
place are the grounds formerly belonging to 
Sir "WUHam Temple, where Dean Swift passed 
so much of his early life. After luncheon an 
excursion was made to Hampton Court, by way 
of Bushy Park. We walked a mile through an 
avenue of horse-chestnut trees, which were ono 
mass of white blossoms, and the effect was very 
beautiful. 

The grounds at Hampton Court are kept in 
such exquisite order, and the Palace itself so 
curious and quaint in its architecture, that it 
could not fan to interest us extremely. The 
building occupies eight acres of groimd, and in 
order to see it, and its beautiful lawns and 
gardens, one must walk several miles. The 
situation is very lovely, being upon the banks of 
the Thames, and so elevated that the view of 
the Surrey HiUs, and the surrounding country, 
is very fine. The river itself, 

" At every winding, as the waters run, 
Presents a mirror to the shining sun." 



24 THE OLD WORLD 

It is not surprising tliat Henry the Eighth 
should have asked the ambitious Cardinal 
Wolsey, who designed the magnificent structure 
for h i mself, wliat were his " intentions in buUd- 
ing a palace that far surpassed any of the royal 
palaces of England ?" There was more tact than 
truth in his reply, that he was only trying to 
form a residence worthy of so great a monarch. 
Whether this great monarch (great in talent, 
and great in wickedness) desired the gift, or not, 
it became his, and was afterwards associated 
with royalty, for many years, and in many ways. 

The good " boy-king," Edward the Sixth, was 
born at Hampton Court, and in sixteen hundred 
and twenty-five, Charles the First and Queen 
Henrietta retreated there to avoid the plague 
then raging in London, Less than twenty years 
after, their majesties again fled there for refuge 
from a calamity still more fatal — a calamity 
which ended in bringing King Charles to the 
scaffold. 

The splendid Gothic Hall designed by Wolsey, 
and finished by Henry the Eighth, is very mag- 
nificent. It is more than a hundred feet long, 
and sixty high, the roof being most elaborately 
carved and decorated with the arms and badges 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 25 

of Henry the Eighth. It was used as a theatre 
dui-ing the reign of Ehzabeth, and tradition says 
that some of the plays of Shakspeare were fii'st 
acted here. We went through long suites of 
rooms, once the scenes of magnificent banquets 
and grand Christmas festivals, where we saw 
hundreds of historical pictures, and portraits of 
various kings, queens, and persons of highest 
rank. The sweet face of Mxs. Delaney, the pet 
of good Queen Charlotte, and the beloved of all 
who knew her, interested us very much. There 
is no end to the portraits of George the Third 
and his numerous offspring, and one wonders 
that they had patience to sit so frequently for 
their ef&gies. It must have furnished our 
countryman, Benjamin West, the favorite painter 
of his majesty, an abundance of employment. 

Hampton Court has not for a long time been 
occupied as a royal residence, and there are 
several suites of apartments in which private 
families are allowed to reside, by special per- 
mission. Through the kindness of the present 
Queen, it was first thrown open to the public, 
and the humblest as well as the proudest of her 
subjects, can now enjoy its various treasures. 



26 THE OLD WOKLD 

We have been several times to Westminster 
Abbey, and it is impossible to describe the almost 
overpowering emotions with which one sees this 
pile, so vast and grand, and so full of historical 
associations. It becomes more and more won- 
derful on each succeeding visit. We entered at 
the " Poets' Corner," where are simple monuments 
to "rare Ben Johnson," Spenser, Milton, Gray, 
Dryden, Chaucer, Goldsmith, Addison, Sheridan 
&c. As I found myself by a simple slab in the 
pavement, with the words, "David Garrick," 
carved upon it, I involuntarily looked up to a httle 
gallery where, some years ago, a group of weep- 
ing friends stood (Hannah More among them,) to 
watch the last sad rites to the most wonderful 
actor of that or any other age. The whole 
scene seemed so vivid as I stood there, but all 
who witnessed it have long since passed away. 
It was with feelings of both awe and reverence 
that we went from one monument to another, 
and read names, and saw deeds recorded with 
many of which we had been long familiar. 

The guide who conducts parties through the 
chapels (of which there are nine) becomes very 
tiresome with his sing-song manner, and parrot- 
like way of giving information. One longs to 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 27 

get rid of him, and linger for hours, instead of 
being hurried on in such a summary manner. 
In Henry the Seventh's chapel, which has an 
exquisite carved stone ceiling, and is very 
beautiful architecturally, the monument of Mary 
Queen of Scots is seen ; a recumbent statue with 
a face very lovely, although of stone. Her cousin 
Ehzabeth, in the royal robes and immense ruff in 
which she delighted, is in another aisle of the 
same chapel. The tomb of Henry the Seventh 
himself, said by Lord Bacon to be " one of the 
stateliest and daintiest in Europe," is in the centre 
of the chapel. There are effigies in solid brass 
of Henry and Elizabeth his queen, lying side by 
side, on a block of black marble. The tomb is 
placed on a pedestal of black marble, five feet 
high, and beautifully adorned with brass orna- 
ments. The remains of Edward the Sixth are 
deposited at the head of this tomb. 

In St. Edward's chapel, the uncomfortable 
looking coronation chair is kept, which has been 
used from the days of Edward Second to Queen 
Victoria. Underneath it is the rough sandstone 
on which aU the old kings of Scotland were 
crowned. The chair is covered with crimson 
velvet on coronation days, and it is hoped, 



28 THE OLD WORLD 

slightly cushioned, or the old adage would 
become true, " Uneasy rests the head that wears 
a crown." 

As we wandered about among the many grand 
and costly monuments, and came at last to the 
simple jflagstones with the letters W. P., and 
C. J. F. carved upon them, we thought of the 
enthusiasm of the eccentric John Randolph, who 
exclaimed on seeing them, "Here lie, side by 
side, the remains of the two great rivals, WUliam 
Pitt, and Charles James Fox, whose memory so 
completely lives in history. No marble monu- 
ments are necessary to mark the spot where their 
bodies I'epose. There is more simple grandeiu* 
in those few letters than in all the surrounding 
monuments, sir!" 

We were very fortunate in having tickets to 
an evening service in "Westminster Abbey, which 
was brilliantly lighted for the occasion — an 
unusual circumstance. The Archbishop of York 
preached in behalf of the Chru'ch Missionary 
Society, and the service was choral, closing with 
the Hallelujah Chorus of Handel, which was 
performed magnificently, and sounded grander 
than ever in that grand old pile, which is also the 
last resting-place of the glorious musician himself. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 29 

We went one day to Westminster Hall, once 
a banqueting hall, and the scene of mii'th and 
revelry for centuries. It is a Gothic apartment, 
and the largest room in the world unsupported 
by pillars. The roof is of wood with flying 
arches, and curious carving. Charles the First 
was tried and condemned in this hall. Warren 
Hastings was also tried, and fortunately ac- 
quitted here, and at a still later day, it was the 
scene of George the Fourth's coronation banquet. 
We were shown through the House of Commons 
and House of Lords by a very well-dressed, 
gentlemanly looking man, to whom we hesitated 
about offering a shiUing, but he took it with 
wonderful ease, and did not seem in the least 
embarrassed. In fact, it is quite surprising to 
meet with so many people who are ready to 
receive a fee, from a penny upward. One need 
not shrink from offering it under any circum- 
stances. 

In the House of Lords, the Lord Chancellor 
was holding court, surrounded by lawyers in 
their large curly wigs, which nearly extinguished 
them. Everything was done in the most quiet, 
orderly manner possible. Sir Roundell Palmer, 
the former attorney-general, made an argument. 



30 THE OLD WORLD 

which was listened to very eagerly by the black- 
gowned, big wigs, present, as well as by those of 
us who were only allowed a peep at the digni- 
taries from a quiet corner. 

The new Houses of Parhament are very 
magnificent and beautiful, the style being richly 
decorated Gothic. They are divided into nume- 
rous apartments, courts, passages and halls. 
Some of the latter are immense, and adorned 
with statuary, and busts of eminent statesmen. 
The House of Lords is perfectly gorgeous in gilt 
mouldings, stained glass windows, paintings, 
velvet, and everything else essential to comfort 
and grandeur. The letters V. R. occur so fre- 
quently that a gifted countrywoman of ours once 
suggested that it must mean " very ridiculous." 

The House of Commons is more simple, but 
very elegant, notwithstanding, and one could not 
but feel that so much show and display were 
quite unnecessary to grave legislation. 

No one can come to London Avithout paying a 
visit to Madame Toussaud's wax-works, and we 
were extremely amused with this "calm and 
classical " collection, so full of the " unchanging 
air of coldness and gentility," which Mrs. Jarley 
80 much admired. It becomes very confusing at 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 31 

last, particularly wlien one turns about to make 
an humble apology for stumbling against a lady 
in the crowd, and discovers that the lady is 
'•looking intensely nowhere, and staring with 
extraordinary earnestness at nothing," and is 
really only a " figger." 

A gentleman of our party who is full of humor, 
but generally looks very grave and wise, seated 
himseK in the centre of a long lounge, to rest, 
while we went to see Napoleon's travelling 
carriage, his son's crib, and some other relics ; 
to say nothing of the dreadful guillotine. 
WhOe sitting there, a young girl came up to 
our dignified friend, and surveyed him from top 
to toe, evidently admiring the grave old gentle- 
man very much, and wondering why he was not 
labelled like the rest ; when he suddenly gave 
her a look brimming over with fun, and she 
scampered off half frightened out of her wits. 
We were very much amused with an amiable- 
looking old gentleman, with spectacles on his 
nose, who was watching a group of royal per- 
sonages, and occupied the best seat in front of 
them, in order to do so. He tiu'ned his head 
from side to side, occasionally, as if he were 
quite bent upon seeing everything, and we were 



g2 the old world 

begmning to tliink it was time he liad resigned 
liis place to some one else, when a closer in- 
spection showed us that his powers of locomo- 
tion were of a very limited kind. The feeling 
after one fii'st discovers that the individual near 
you, instead of being fiesh and blood, is only a 
sham, is very peculiar. 

St. Paul's Cathedral, situated as it is, in the 
very heart of London, and in its most crowded 
neighborhood, is blackened with coal smoke, and 
looks like anything but white marble, of which it 
is built. It is a massive pile, and when one is 
undex-neath the dome, its real grandeur imj)resses 
itself very forcibly. The choir, with its rich oak 
carvings of festoons of flowers, scrolls, fiaiits and 
figures, is very beautiful. Christopher "Wren, 
the famous architect, laid the corner stone 
himself in sixteen hundred and seventy-five, and 
lived to see his son deposit the highest stone 
upon the cupola, thirty-five years after. His 
remains are beneath a plain slab in the crypt, 
but a Latin inscription in the choir above, says, 
" Beneath, hes Sir Christopher Wren, the builder 
of this church, who hved upwards of ninety years, 
not for himself, but for the pubKc good. Reader, 
seekest thou his monument ? Look around !" 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 33 

It is an interesting fact that the first statue 
erected in St Paul's, was that of the great lexi- 
cographer, Dr. Johnson. There are a great 
many monuments to the memory of distinguished 
men — among them, John Howard the philanthro- 
pist, who is represented trampling on fetters 
and chains, with a key in one hand, and a scroll 
in the other, inscribed, " Plea for the Improve- 
ment of Prisons." One cannot but look with 
reverence on even the sculptured form of a man 
so truly benevolent and good. England's two 
greatest heroes are lying in the crypt of the 
cathedral. Lord Nelson is placed immediately 
under the centre of the dome, m a black marble 
sarcophagus, having on it a coronet and cushion. 
It has a granite foimdation, and only the simple 
inscription, "Horatio, Viscount Nelson." In a 
chamber near by, is the superb tomb of the 
Duke of Wellington, made from one block of 
porphyry, highly polished, which weighed 
originally more than seventy tons. It h&s a 
foundation of red granite, about four feet higli, 
and at each corner is sculptured the head of a 
sleeping lion, also in granite. At the four comers 
of the vault are gas jets, rising through red 
granite shafta The immense funeral car, di'avvu, 
8 



34 THE OLD WOELD 

at that time, by twelve horses, and wrought 
from cannon captured in different battles under 
the "Iron Duke," is in another chamber. It is 
covered with black velvet, fringed with silver, 
and six wooden horses, looking as much like 
life as a painted horse can, and wearing the 
sombre trappings used at the funeral, are at- 
tached to the car. 

Certainly, England has not been wanting in 
any honor that could be conferred upon the 
conqueror of Napoleon, both in life and death. 

Our visit to Sydenham Palace, which occurred 
on a lovely day, was made very interesting 
through the kindness of the family of the dis- 
tinguished naturalist, Mr. "Waterhouse Hawkins, 
who has placed so many of the remarkable 
restored animals about the beautiful grounds. 
There are thu'ty, or more, of these creatures, 
once inhabitants of England and Ireland, but 
now extinct. Some of them are enormous, a,nd 
one can but rejoice that they belong to the 
" things that were." 

The Palace is a marvellous structure, and 
contains a httle of everything. One can walk for 
hours through its £oors and galleries, examiuiiig 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 35 

tlie wonderful collections of treasures brought 
from all parts of the world. There are copies 

of many of the most celebrated works of art 

courts arranged to represent different nations, 
and adorned with statuary — such as the Egyptian 
court—the Grecian — the Eoman — the Pompeian, 
&c. Then there are models of ships, bridges, 
and machinery, and specimens of the animal and 
mineral productions of all.countries. 

In the tropical gardens, there are exquisite 
flowers and shrubs, and even trees, growing. 
Indeed, flowers and fountains meet you every- 
where, and the whole light airy structure seems 
like fairy-land. The situation is commanding, 
and the grounds beautifully arranged with a 
profusion of statues, grottoes and fountains. 
We were present at a grand concert given by 
the Handel Society, underneath the great central 
dome of the building, and the music sounded 
magnificently there. 

The next evening we heard music of quite 
another character at the Baptist Tabernacle 
church in Southwark, which, although less 
artistic, was none the less impressive. There 
the whole congregation seemed to sing as one 



36 :he old world 

voice, the pastor setting them the example by 
singing with all his might and main himself. 
It was really grand. Mr. Spurgeon's church is 
in the midst of a densely populated portioii oi 
the city. The interior of the building is oval in 
shape, and there are double galleries ruhniiig 
around the whole chiu'ch. It is well lighted and 
ventilated. 

The congregation was immense, filling every 
part of the enormous structure. As each person 
entered, a small envelope was given him, or her, 
with a request printed upon it that contributions 
be placed in it, and deposited in boxes at the 
doors, for the benefit of the college which is 
preparing young men for the ministry. In this 
way, two hundred dollars, sometimes more, are 
collected every Sunday, mostly in pennies. The 
church seats about five thousand, and besides 
those who were seated, hundreds stood during 
the entire service. 

Through the i)ohteness of one of the officials, 
we were very kindly placed in excellent seats in 
the first gallery, very near to, and almost on a 
level with the pulj^it. Precisely at haK-past six, 
Mr. Spurgeon entered, and took his seat on a 
email platform, projecting from the second 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 37 

gallery. He is short, rather stout, and youug in. 
his appearance. There is nothiug to indicate the 
wonderful power he has as a preacher. 

The services commenced with a short prayer, 
which was somewhat characteristic. He asked 
that our thoughts might not be " gadding about " 
during the service, and implored blessings on 
" Mary and Sai-ah, and Willie and Thomas, and 
the little baby whose voice we had just heard." 
After the prayer, a hymn was given out, verse 
by verse — then followed the reading and ex- 
pounduig of a portion of Scripture — then a 
long prayer, and singing again. The sermon 
was upon the verses of Balaam's prophecy, in 
which the Saviour is set forth under the figure 
of a stai'. He made seven heads. First, the 
star represented domiaion. Second, shining. 
Third, guidance. Fourth, constancy. Fifth, 
influence. Sixth, wonder. Seventh, glory. It 
was a plain, earnest, practical presentation of the 
offices of Christ, which a child could have under- 
stood. The vast audience listened with breath- 
less attention, throughout, and we all felt 
interested and edified. It could not have been 
called a scholarly or finished sermon, but Christ 
was faithfully and fully preached. 



38 THE OLD WORLD 

With a good delivery, fresli and practical 
thoughts, and with homely, yet pertinent illus- 
trations, he is enabled to keep the attention 
of his hearers to the end. His exhortations and 
applications are interspersed throughout the 
whole discourse, and not left to the close. The con- 
cluding service was a hymn, and a short prayer, 
with benediction. The whole service was some- 
thing to be seen and remembered, as among the 
most remarkable things of this wonderful me- 
tropohs, and we cannot soon forget it. 

We spent a pleasant day at Hampstead, where 

our lovely friend Mrs. N. resides, in B Lodge, 

a charming spot, with a pretty garden and lawn. 

I made my dtbut upon a donkey, while there, 

as there were scores of these creatures upon the 

heath, 

" All saddled and bridled and ready for fight," 

which their various owners urged upon us in 
the most hospitable manner. Having long been 
desirous of trying one of these shaggy, long, 
eared beasts, I selected a particularly amiable- 
looking animal, and mounted — but alas ! 
" Zknowed a donkey, wot wouldn't go," 

at least, not in the right direction, for although 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 39 

the owner punched him with a stick, and screamed 
in his great ears loud enough to deafen him, he 
persisted in trying both sides of the road at 
once, and made such desperate aim for the 
ditches, that lite many another debutante, I was 
seized with " stage fright," and retreated in the 
most ignominious manner. The views from the 
highest point of Hampstead Heath quite repaid 
us for our long walk, and I did not regret part- 
ing with my gay deceiver. As we were returning 
through the lanes, and quaint old streets, we 
passed a plain brick house, covered with ivy, 
standing on the brow of a hill, overlookiag the 
town. There was a look of elegance and refine- 
ment about it which we felt ought to belong to 
the residence of the author of the " Schonberg 
Cotta Family," whose home it is. 

Our next expedition was to the Zoological 
Gardens of Regents Park, which are wonderfully 
perfect in their arrangements. The animals are 
not cramped up in miserable little cages, where 
they keep walking up and down, looking very 
fierce and forlorn. On the contrary, many of 
them have a beautiful little cottage to live in, 
Burrounded by a high, open fence ; and then 



40 THE OLD WORLD 

they have pools of clear, pure water, in which 
they bathe, and they really seem so comfort- 
able and happy, that it is a pleasure to look at 
them. 

The gardens are so beautifully laid out, that 
we were not surprised to see many happy famihes 
there, consisting of fathers and mothers, children 
and nurses, who evidently had come for the 
entire day, with capacious lunch-baskets. It is 
pleasant to see so many of the lovely parks and 
gardens here, free to all, and very delightful to 
see how numerous are those gi'een spots in this 
great city. 

It is " the season " in London just now ; 
Parliament being in session, and all the fashion- 
able world congregating here, so that everything 
is in its best and most attractive dress. We 
never tire of the beautiful parks, which in the 
afternoon are thronged with elegant equipages, 
ladies on horseback gaUojDing up and down 
Rotton Row, and pedestrians enjoying the gay 
scene. The pretty children on ponies scarcely 
larger than a Newfovmdland dog, led by a gi'oom, 
and with a nui'se walking at their side, we always 
watched with peculiar pleasure. One day, how- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 4:1 

ever, oiir delight in these scenes received a shock 
fi"om which it was difficult to recover, when we 
saw the horse of a young gentleman become 
perfectly unmanageable and rush madly along 
the bridle path, while its rider made the most 
desperate efforts to keep the saddle. "When we 
saw him at last dashed to the ground, and his 
poor lifeless body extended on the grass shortly 
afterwards, we felt that a ride in Rotton Row 
was dearly paid for in this case. 

Kensington Gardens, at the western extremity 
of Hyde Park, are nearly a mile square, and are 
very beautiful. There are glorious old trees in 
the grounds, and in some places it was like being 
in a vast forest, far away from the " busy haunts 
of men." We seated ourselves on some iron 
chairs, near a pretty lake, in front of Kensing- 
ton Palace, to enjoy the scene and partake of a 
little lunch, when a very young gentleman with 
a police decoration on his cap, came to demand 
a fee for the chairs, which in the innocence of 
GUI' hearts, we thought some benevolent person 
had placed there " pro bono pubhco." While wo 
wilHngly paid the demand, we were again struck 
with the many ways of obtaining money. A boy 
wiU chase a cab for a mile, to open the door for 



42 THE OLD WORLD 

you, aud feel liberally rewarded for his polite 
attention if you give liim a penny. Probably 
these little jobs are all he has to depend upon. 
Kensington Palace is a very unpretending brick 
building, but interesting from having been the 
abode of royalty for two centuries. 

More than thu'ty years ago, a young girl of 
eighteen, who then resided there with her 
mother, was awakened in the night and told that 
the Archbishop of Canterbury desired an in- 
terview ; her uncle William the Fourth having 
just died. She hastily attired herself and met 
the venerable prelate. He informed her of her 
accession to the throne, and in deep agitation, 
her first words were, " I ask your prayers in my 
behalf." They knelt down together, and thus 
the young sovereign inaugurated her reign. How 
well she has fulfilled the trust reposed in her, up 
to the present hour, we all know, for certainly 
no Queen has better deserved the devotion of 
her loving subjects, than the excellent Queen 
Victoria. 

We are about to leave England for a season, 

and we do so with much regret, for 

" O, England ! full of years, yet passing fair, 
I drink thy beauty with a child's delight." 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 43 

Paris, May 19. 
The dreaded Channel has been passed, and like 
many another "uncertain evil," it has proved 
only imaginary. We were two hours crossing 
from Dover to Calais, and scarcely a ripple could 
be seen on the surface of the water. The trip 
was reaUy most charming, and we all felt that 
the Channel had been undeservedly abused. We 
could not but wonder, however, what travellers 
were expected to do, in case of the storms which 
are so frequent on that sea, when the accommo- 
dations of the steamer were so very limited. 
How such boats on such a thoroughfare can be 
tolerated, is certainly most remarkable. At 
Calais our luggage was seized upon by men in 
blue blouses, who rushed up two pairs of high 
steps, which were covered with a green sHpj)ery 
shme ; for the tide was low, and the dock, which 
ought to have been underneath the water, was 
now standing out in bold reUef. On reaching 
the top, we were ushered into a bedlam, known 
generally as a custom-house, where we fuily 
reahzed the sage remark of Thomas Hood, that 
"even the children in France speak French." 
The custom-house officers were very polite, and 
beheved us when we answered "rien" without 



44 THE OLD WORLD 

investigating very closely. So we were soon ou 
our way again, and were rather glad to know 
that the country about Calais was marghj' and 
bleak, for we were almost immediately enveloped 
in such a cloud of dust, that it was impossible 
to see anything. Such dust I think I never 
encountered before, and we were not sorry when 
at the end of six hours we found ourselves in 
bright, cheerful Paris, at the most comfortable 
Hotel de L'Ath'n'e. Our stay will not be long 
just now, but we have indulged in a bit of gayety 
in the shape of a visit to the Cii'que de I'impera- 
trice, where we saw wonderful riding, beautiful 
horses, and a building of vast dimensions, most 
tastefully arranged. The French clowns, even 
when they do not say anything, are so exqui- 
sitely funny in their actions, that one cannot help 
being amused, and we laughed very heartily at 
their various antics. 

The Hotel deslnvalides interested us extremely, 
and we were glad to see the hundreds of old and 
infirm soldiers there so kindly cared for. A few 
are still left who fought under the first Napo- 
leon, and who remember him with ajffection- 
ate reverence. We were shown the kitchen. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 45 

dining-hall, and library, and were allowed to 
enter the old church, which in Napoleon's day 
was adorned with nearly three thousand flao-s. 
Underneath the Dome des Invalides is the su- 
perb tomb of Napoleon, in a circular excavation 
many feet deep. The floor is composed of 
laurels formed in mosaic, from the centre of 
which rises the reddish brown granite sarcopha- 
gus, which is surrounded by twelve colossal fig- 
ures, emblematic of victory. At the entrance of 
the vault are the words from Napoleon's will, in 
which be asks tiiat his ashes may repose upon 
the borders of the Seine, in the midst of the 
French people whom he has so much loved. We 
could not but be glad that his last wish was 
gratified. 

The famous Bois de Boulogne has been en- 
chanting m this bright weather, and we enjoyed 
its miles of lovely drives exceedingly. We found 
it thronged with carriages of every description, 
and all the elegance of Paris seemed to be in 
them. The beautiful cascades and lakes are so 
like nature, that one can scarcely believe they 
have been arranged by the hand of art, and that 
the rocks are not real rocks, formed by a higher 



46 TH3 OLD WORLD 

power than man. The Vacherie, with its fifty 
handsome cows, deh'ghted us very mucii. It i^ 
surrounded by beautiful grounds, and there are 
tables at which persons can sit and partake of 
the innocent luxury of fresh milk. It was 
Served in small white china bowls, and the pretty 
picturesque costume of the young waiting maids, 
and their pleasant manners, added greatly to 
the charm. Many occupants of the carriages 
ordered the milk to be brought to them there, 
and enjoyed it at their leisure without alightmg. 
We dined with some friends at the Cafe de Ma- 
drid, and were the victims of our cunning cocher, 
who took us in the most circuitous direction pos- 
sible, and several times lost his way in order to 
prolong the expedition. The Cafe was about ton 
minutes' drive from the Vacherie, and we were an 
hour and a half reaching it. However, the place 
proved so agreeable, and we enjoyed the meeting 
with dear friends so much, that we soon forgot 
the slight annoyance. Our excellent dinner was 
served to us in a lovely shaded bower, in the 
nicest manner possible, and as the garcon who 
attended us had lived a few years in our " land of 
steady habits," he took particular pleasure in be- 
stowing upon us his society and patronage. We 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 47 

asted him if be intended returning to Connecti- 
cut, and were not surprised that he said " no " 
very emphatically ; for a pleasure-loving French- 
man must find our tusy, working land very dull. 
Paris has quite reminded us of home, in the 
building which we see going on in aU directions, 
and in the tearing down of many places already 
built. The throngs in the streets are incessant, 
and we have looked with wonder at the dexterity 
"with which men on velocipedes have managed to 
rush by vehicle after vehicle, and shape their 
course between and among them, without in any 
way interfering with their speed, or endangering 

themselves. 

Genoa, May 22. 

We are thus far on our way to the " Eternal 
City," having left Paris on the morning of the 
nineteenth. The country was most interesting 
during the entire day, being through Burgundy, 
with its beautiful vineyards, and rows upon rows 
of poplar-trees, with an occasional sprinkling of 
the inorus multicaulis. 

At Dijon, the conductor announced that we 
should remain twenty-eight minutes, and as 
we were informed that there was an excellent 
table d'hote at th^ station, we decided to try 



48 THE OLD WORLD 

it. We were shown into a large pleasant room, 
with neat muslin curtains at the eight windows. 
The table-cloth was as white as snow, and the 
napkins, ditto. We had seven different courses, 
with changes of plates at each course. Soup, 
roast beef with potatoes, lamb and spinach, 
pickled fish, asparagus, roast chicken and salad, 
pudding, followed by coffee, cheese, and fruit. 
Everything was beautifully served, without bustle 
or confusion ; and of course there was a profu- 
sion of Burgundy wine, there being three bottles 
placed before each plate. There were also at inter- 
vals in the centre of the table, circular shelves in 
pyramidal form, which were filled with bottles. 
All this was furnished for a little more than four 
francs each person. Shall we ever see the time 
in our own land when a meal can be eaten so 
comfortably at a railway station ? 

Six o'clock the next morning found us very 
near Marseilles, crossing a dreary flat, composed 
of stones and high grass, with a decidedly saltish 
atmosphere prevailing. We were glad to refresh 
ourselves at a comfortable hotel, after our night in 
the cars, and afterwards we drove about the city. 
From a bare, rocky hill, called Notre Dame de la 
Garde, from the curious chapel on the summit, we 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 49 

had a fine view of Marseilles itself, which is 
spread over a gradually sloping basin, and sur- 
rounded by hills covered with vineyards, and 
olive gardens, among the bleak-looking rocks. 
On the other side, the beautiful blue Mediterra- 
nean stretches far off in the distance. The 
chapel of "La bonne Mere," is in so elevated 
a situation, that the ascent to it cannot be made 
without much panting and many pauses, but it 
is a great resort. An image of the Virgin, carved 
in olive wood, and of great antiquity, is held 
in the highest veneration throughout the Medi- 
terranean by sailors and fishermen and their 
families, who bestow offerings of all kinds to pro- 
pitiate her favor. At every convenient place in the 
ascent, we found women stationed with candles, 
medals, and rosaries, which they urged us to buy, 
and which we respectfully declined doing. Our 
stay in Marseilles was rather brief, but quite sa- 
tisfactory, and we had a charming expedition to 
Nice on the same day, by the railway which skirts 
along the sea-shore. The scenery much of the 
time was very grand, and Vv^e passed Toulon with 
its strongly fortified harbor, Cannes, and other 
favorite winter watering-places. 

At Cannes, Lord Brougham, full of years and 
4 



50 THE OLD WOELD 

honors, bad died a short time before at his pretty 
villa, named Louise Eleonore. Nice, with its 
surrounding mountains to shut out the cold 
winds and the glorious sea at the south, must be 
a delicious winter climate. The temperature is 
soft and mild, and flowers ai*e in blossom all the 
year round in the open air — while there are 
orange trees in every stage, from the blossom to 
the mature fruit. The town is almost deserted 
now, and it was with diflicnlty that we found a 
hotel prepared to take us in. The " Hotel de 
France " at leiigth opened its hosjDitable doors, 
and we found it pleasantly situated and well 
kept. The next morning we drove to the old 
chateau, a very high point which is i-eached by a 
road, en zigzag, and from which we had a glorious 
view of the city, the Mediterranean, and the 
spiu's of the Alps in the distance. 

We are in the midst of tropical fruits and flow- 
ers, and constantly see the most bi-illiant gera- 
neums growing wild in great profusion. The 
single scarlet poppy seems to be the iveed of the 
country, and we see millions of them in the fields, 
and by the roadside, ujaking everything look very 
gay. "\Vh;n we left Nice, I carried in iriy hand a 
branch cofitaining seven oranges, which I had 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 51 

picked in the garclen of the hotel. Our sail of 
eight hours, from Nice to Grenoa, was delightful. 
The sea was perfectly calm, and we kept near the 
shore, thus having a good view of the mountains, 
the various towns, and the marvellous Cornice 
road, which follows the indentations of the shore, 
now ascending, and then descending high moun- 
tains, and then appearing again along the beach. 

We have spent a part of two days in wander- 
ing about Genoa, which is well called "La Su- 
perba " from its commanding position upon the 
Bay, and the magnificence of its palaces and 
churches. The streets in nearly all parts of the 
town, however, are very narrow, and as there are 
no sidewalks, the middle of the street is as 
much used by pedestrians as any other part. The 
long white scarf which the women arrange so 
gracefully about their heads, and which falls in 
light folds over their necks and arms, is very 
picturesque, and gives a softness to the plainest 
face. 

From the church of Sante Maria di Carrig- 
nano, we had a perfect view of the city with its 
superb situation ; and the church itself, a fine 
building ot black and white marble, is one of 
great interest. It was built at a great expense 



52 THE OLD WOELD 

.by the Saulis family, who also erecte/l a grand 

bridge over a dry chasm, in order to make the 

i church accessible. It has some very fine pictures 

' and statuary, among them a martydom by Carlo 

Maratti, which is very striking. 

In one of the public squares stands the beauti- 
ful monument erected to the memory of Colum- 
bus, whom the Genoese are proud to claim as 
their son. Columbus stands tall and erect, with 
an earnest expression of face, his hand resting 
upon an anchor, while a female figure, rej)resent- 
ing America, is kneeling and looking up at him. 
The base of the monument bears this inscrip- 
tion : 

A 

CHRISTOFERO COLOMBO. 

La Patria. 

An ancient house near by is pointed out as one 
in which Columbus once hved. We drove out to 
the famous Pallavicini villa, which is about five 
miles from the city. Everything that taste and 
wealth combined can do, has been done to make 
this place most charming. There are fountains, 
cascades, summer-houses, grottos, statues, exqui- 
site flowers, and rare trees. In one of the grottos 
we entered a boat, and were rowed through nar- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 53 

row passages, formed of stalactites, and on coming 
out again at another side, we found oui'selves sur- 
rounded by banks of flowers, and floating on a beau- 
tiful little lake. There is a constant succession of 
surprises about the grounds, and when one enters 
an attractive summer-house, and receives a jet of 
water, fine as spray, from an unseen source, the 
surprise is decidedly startling. The whole scene 
was exquisite, and one felt like lingering there a 
longer time than the guide was disposed to give. 
Our drive back to Genoa, over a dusty road, was 
not a pleasant exchange for this Paradise. 

Florence, May 28. 

The morning after our departure from Genoa 
found us in Leghorn, where we landed fi-om the 
steamer in a small boat, and were received by the 
dreadful clatter of an Italian crowd, who insisted 
on seizing every parcel, ourselves included, and be- 
stowed attentions upon us which we would gladly 
have dispensed with. Fortunately the custom- 
house officers manifested less interest in us and 
our possessions, and let us off very easOy. 

"We made ourselves quite at home at the " Vic- 
tory and Washington Hotel," names we are ac- 
customed to associate together, and after break- 
fast sallied forth in search of whatever might 



54 THE OLD WORLD 

interest us in in tliis bustling seaport town. 
Ttie principal result of our expedition was the 
purchase of a Leghorn hat, which we bought in 
the usual dishonest Italian way, by offering the 
man just half the sum he asked for it. As it was 
all it was worth, we were not surprised that he 
should have taken it, but we did not admire the 
principle of the thing very much. 

We were not disposed to linger long in Leg- 
horn, and were soon on our way to Pisa, where 
the Leaning Tower, the Cathedi-al, the Baptis- 
try, and the Campo Santo, form a splendid group 
of buildings. The Leaning Tower certainly does 
lean fearfully, and it will probably always remain 
a point in dispute, whether the inclination was 
intentional or not, as it has now been six centu- 
ries in this position. At the top of the tower are 
the bells, to contain which it was erected. They 
vary in size, but are all large and heavy, and are 
always rung at funerals. 

The Cathedral is very old and grand, and 
among its wonderful contents, we looked with 
much interest at the large antique bronze lamp, 
suspended from the ceiling, which first suggested 
to Galileo the theory of iLe pendulum, nearly 
three hundred years ago. The high altar of the 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 55 

Cathedral is very large, and elaborately orna- 
mented, and there are some very fine paintings 
of. Andrea del Sarto. 

The Baptistry is very beautiful, being ahnost 
entirely of marble ; but there is a look of desola- 
tion about it when one first enters, as the space is 
M ide and high, and only broken by the font and 
pulpit. The latter is exquisitely carved, and 
supported by seven columns, composed of differ- 
ent marble?, wliich rest upon the crouching 
figures of animals. There is a very remarkable 
echo in the Baptistry, and the really musical 
voice of our guide was repeated again and again 
in the most sonorous manner, as he sang in loud 
tones to call out the response. 

The Campo Santo is composed of cloisters, 
lined with curious old frescoes, and within 
these cloisters is the sacred earth brought from 
Jerusalem in twelve hundred and twenty-eight. 
Most of the tombs are very curious and old, 
many of them very elaborately sculptured and 
adorned wdth statuary. There are some modern 
tombs among them, for burials take place here 
still, occasionally ; and among the recent mon- 
uments we saw one to Count Cavour, the great 
statesman and benefactor of Italy. 



56 THE OLD WOKLD 

We drove past, tlie Palazzo Lanfrancliini, pret- 
tily' situated on the Arno, in which Lord Byron 
lived some time, and where he wi'ote some of his 
most famous and most wicked poems. The rail- 
way from Pisa was through a most charming, culti- 
vated country, wMch becomes more and more 
beautiful the nearer it approaches Florence. 
Now, as I wiite, I hear the rushing of the watei'S 
of the Arno, in fi'ont of the hotel, and although 
truth compels me to say that the river looks de- 
cidedly muddy and yellow at this season of the 
year, yet it is the Arno, and we are in Firenze la 
Bella! What treasures have we already laid up 
in the way of paintings and sculjjture ! Hov7 
impossible ever to forget them, and yet how im- 
possible to describe them. 

The first look at the Pitti Palace suggests a 
prison, so abundant are the iron bars, and so 
rough the walls. One can hardly imagine the 
feelings of the dying Medici, who replied to the 
priest, when he vvas describing to him the heav- 
enly joys upon which he was about to enter : 
'•But / am content with the Pitti Palace." 
When once >vithm, however, it is not difficult to 
understand his entire satisfaction. We were 
shown through the elegant private apartments of 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 57 

King Victor Emanuel, looking out upon the 
Boboli gardens, which are a profusion of terraces, 
and adorned with flowers, statuary, and fountains, 
an exquisite picture in themselves. Then the pic- 
tures within! What a feeling of j^ossession it 
gives one to see the Madonna della Seggiola of 
Raphael, the Virgin and Child of Murillo, the 
Bella Donna and Magdalen of Titian, and hun- 
dreds of others, of which one has heard, and 
seen in prints so many, many times. We wan- 
dered for hours, drinking in all these pleasures 
with a delight that never wearied. 

From the Pitti Palace we went to the Uffizi 
Gallery by means of a long corridor, or covered 
bridge, which takes one over the Arno, and is 
hung the greater part of the way with tapestry. 
With very little delay, we sought the "Tribune," 
in the centre of which stands the far-famed 
Venus de Medici, beautiful in form and extremely 
gTaceful, but without the soul in her face which 
one would hke to see. Near her, hang the 
Madonna del Cordellino, La Fornarini, and St. 
John Preaching in the Desert, by Raphael, and a 
Madonna and Child by Andrea del Sarto. Each 
one a gem, of which one could never tire. 

The device of Florence, a rose in a field of 



58 THE OLD WORLD 

lilies, seems a very appropriate one, situated as 
she is in a theatre of verdant hills, covered with 
vines and olives, and dotted with villas. There 
is a constant fascination about hfe here, and one 
cannot but feel that ample provision is made for 
harmless enjoyments — enjoyments which culti- 
vate and refine. Pictures, statues, music, flowers, 
seem a part of the place itseK. The di'ive to 
the Cascine is a never-failing source of attraction, 
and for two or three hours of an afternoon, 
all Florence can be seen, walking or driving 
along the banks of the Arno, underneath the 
magnificent treeSj or stopping near the Grand 
Duke's farm-house to hsten to the band. This 
is the great gathering point, and carriages draw 
up side by side, for the iniaates to converse — 
flower-gu'ls in pictiQ-esque costume, dash rashly in 
among the horses, to offer you theii' fragrant bou- 
quets — ladies on horseback, attended by officers 
in full uniform, add to the beauty of the scene, 
while children with their nui'ses are made hajipy 
by a ramble in the woods, or by the river-side. 
A gayer scene it is scarcely possible to imagine. 
Even the coachmen, it is said, partake of this 
elegance, and in case of any disturbance among 
themselves, classically call upon Venus or Bac- 



SEEN THTH YOUNG EYES. 59 

cbus, or swear "by the aspect of Minerva!" 
This I cannot vouch for, not having been the 
witness of any such contention. 

It is pleasant to know that in the midst of all 
this gayety, so much is being done to instruct 
and elevate, by means of rehgious teaching and 
literature. The orphan asylum and public 
schools, under the care of an ItaHan Protestant, 
are very successful ; while the Bible, and various 
religious works published by the Italian Evan,- 
gehcal Publication Society, are circulated with a 
freedom which a few years ago would have been 
deemed impossible. 

We have enjoyed meeting Mr. Powers, the 
sculptor, of whom all Americans are proud, and 
it was a great pleasure to be conducted about 
his studio by him. V/e regarded the long apron 
and closely-fitting linen cap, as becoming articles 
of dress on him, and his fine eyes glowed with 
feeling as he spoke of his native land. The 
Greek Slave, long so familiar to us, looked more 
beautiful than ever, by the side of her master, 
and we saw many exquisite busts and statues — 
among them the busts of our counti-ymen Edward 
Everett, Eobert C. WinthroxD, and Doctor Bel- 



60 THE OLD WORLD 

lows — all of which were wonderfully like the 
originals. 

I coiQd not but think, as I stood there, of the 
Httle Kentucky boy, the son of a United States 
Senator, who on his return from Louisville, 
where he had been to see the Greek Slave, fell 
from the cars between Frankfort and Lexington, 
and his arm was so terribly crushed that it had 
to be amputated. When his weeping mother 
went to his bedside, shortly after the operation 
was over, and said to him, " My poor boy, your 
visit to Louisville has been a dear one to you." 
"All, mother," rephed the little fellow, with a 
look and tone of animation, " but I saw the Greek 
Slave." It is not strange that Mr. Powers should 
have been touched by such a tribute to his 
genius, and he expressed a strong desu'e to know 
the fate of the heroic boy. It is more than 
thirty years since Mr. Powers has seen his native 
country, yet he is enthusiastically American, and 
has honored us abroad, not only by his works, 
but in his pure, spotless life — a life quiet and 
unostentatious, but full of love and chai'ity to all. 

We visited the house in which Michael Angelo 
lived and died — it is quaint and old-fashioned, 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 61 

but the apartments are quite spacious and 
elegant. They are kept very nearly as they 
were in the days of the wonderfully gifted artist, 
and many of his sketches hang upon the walls, 
with other works of art — among them portraits 
of Dante, Petrarch, and other celebrated men of 
Tuscany. In a little cabinet where he used to 
write, are preserved his sword and cane, and a 
pair of slippers which he wore more than three 
hundred years ago. We felt as if the genius of 
the place must be near, on seeing these things of 
every-day use. 

A house not less interesting to us was one with 
a marble slab inserted in the wall, telling the 
passers-by that here lived and wrote Elizabeth 
Barrett Browning — the Casa Guidi which she 
has immortahzed in her grand poem. We after- 
wards went to the beautiful cemetery, where a 
sculptured sarcophagus, with only the letters 
E. B. B. inscribed upon it, shows the last resting- 
place of this truly great and noble woman. How 
touching seemed her own lines, as we stood there : 
And, Mends ! — dear friends ! — when it shall be 
That this low breath has gone from me, 
And ronnd my bier ye come to weep. 
Let one, most loving of yon all. 
Say ' ' Not a tear must o' er her fall, 
' He giveth his beloved sleep !' " 



62 THE OLD wor.LD 

The Catliedral, with the dome which Michael 
Augelo so much admired, and the Baptistry with 
its wouderful bronze doors, are objects of great 
interest. So, too, is the Santa Croce, with its 
many monuments to illustrious dead — among 
them Michael Angelo, Dante, and Galileo. The 
Medicean Chapel at the San Lorenzo is gorgeous 
in beautiful marbles, exquisite mosaics and pre- 
cious stones, the lofty walls being entirely covered 
with them. The Grand Duhes of Tuscany are 
glorified in this chapel, their remains lying in the 
crypt below, while their armorial bearings adorn 
the walls above, and statuary and cenotaphs de- 
note their rank and wealth. Some of the statues 
are by Michael Angelo. One, of the Duke of Ur- 
bino, in a sitting posture, is very grand. He was 
the father of Catherine de Medici, who after- 
wards became the queen of Henry the Second of 
France, and rendered herself infamous by her 
persecution of the Huguenots. 

Rome. 

A lovely moonlight evening found us on our 
way here, and the night passed so very rapidly 
that there seemed only a few moments between 
the announcement of the names of the different 
towDB we passed through. The beautiful, cloud- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 63 

less early morning found us iu a country so en- 
chanting that we were glad to unclose our weary 
eyes and gaze with delight, even after a night of 
little sleep. The scenery was varied, and com- 
prised every variety of natural beauty — some- 
times mountainous, with rugged rocks, then cul- 
tivated plains, green slopes, and sheltered valleys. 
Everywhere we saw a profusion of grape-vines 
growing in festoons between trees ; a graceful 
arrangement which we had not observed before. 
We journeyed on through this enchanted land 
until nearly ten o'cloct, when the dome of St. 
Peter's burst upon our view, and in a few mo- 
ments more we were in Rome. Rome, 

" The city tliat so long 
Eeigned absolute, the mistress of the world." 

When we alighted from the cars a ruin met 
our gaze at once — some magnificent fragments of 
the baths of Diocletian ; and we felt this to be a 
proper introduction to the grand old city, 
although it was rather a sad reminder of past 
greatness. We drove at once to the Hotel de 
Londres, on the Piazza di Spagiia, where rooms 
awaited us, with balconied windows looking out 
upon the square, and within sound of the quaint- 
looking fountain near by. It was so pleasant to 



64 THE OLD WOKLD 

sit there and rest, and realize that we were in 
Rome, that for some hours we were very quiet. 
A charming afternoon, however, tempted us to 
drive to St. Peter's, where we found no words in 
which to express our admiration and astonish- 
ment. The semi-circular colonnades, so familiar 
to us in pictures, seemed more remarkable still, 
when we saw that they were suj)ported by four 
rows of columns, with sufficient room between 
the inner rows for the passage of two carriages 
abreast. The fountains, too, as we heard the 
plashing of the gracefully-falling water, added 
not a little to the beauty of the entrance to this 
majestic temple. The interior so completely be- 
wilders one with its splendor and magnificence, 
that it is impossible for a long time to take it in, 
or comprehend its magnitude. Marbles, mosaics, 
pictures, gilding and brilliant colors abound, and 
one must look again and again before one can 
appreciate its treasures, or the gigantic scale on 
which everything is arranged. The bronze cano- 
py,-^in itself large enough for a small church, — 
which covers the high altar, stands beneath the 
stupendous dome, and underneath the high altar 
is said to be the grave of St. Peter himself. This 
altar is only used on solemn occasions, and then 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 65 

the Pope officiates. Neai* by is the celebrated 
bronze statue of St. Peter, sitting in a chair, with 
the right foot extended, which has been so often 
and so lovingly kissed by the faithful that several 
of the toes have lost theu' shape. We noticed 
that some particularly neat persons wiped it off 
with a clean pocket handkerchief before kissing, 
while we strongly suspected that most of the de- 
votees did not possess that necessary article ; St. 
■Peter's being open to all ranks and conditions. 

Soon after our return to the hotel, two funeral 
processions passed through the Piazza in front of 
our windows, consisting of long files of monks in 
white robes, bearing tapers. Then- chanting, which 
sounded like the most dismal wailing, was any- 
thing but exhilarating, and we were not sorry 
when the doleful psalmody ceased, and the pro- 
cession disappeared. 

Sunday being Whitsunday, we went early to 
the Sistine Chapel, in the prescribed black dresses 
and vails, without which no women are admitted, 
so that we all looked as if we had suddenly gon( 
into mourning. After passing the Swiss Guards 
in their curious costumes, composed of red, yel- 
low and black stripes, with white plumes an<f 
broad ruffles, we took our places at the entrance, 
5 



66 THE OLD WOBLD 

among many others, dressed, like ourselves, in 
sable garments. 

"When the doors were opened there was a rush 
for the best seats, and much pushing and scram- 
bling, quite in the style of a theatrical entertain- 
ment. A lively conversation was kept up on all 
sides, not only until the service commenced, but 
long after ; and we were quite amused with a 
young English girl who had recently become 
converted to the Roman Catholic faith, who 
gossipped and dropped upon her knees, all In 
one breath. 

The ceremonies were very imposing, and the 
music, at times, very grand. The cardinals, in 
their red hats, and long scarlet silk gowns, 
entered one by one. Their trains were tied in a 
knot until they were in the chapel, when two 
attendants untied and spread them out several 
yards upon the floor, in a sadly wrinkled state. 
We were struck with the remarkably fine faces 
of many of the cardinals — among them Cardinals 
Antonelli and Bonaparte — the latter resembling 
the pictures of the first Napoleon very much. 
The Pope wore his triple crown, studded with 
jev/els, and v/as one mass of gold, rich lace, and 
all kinds of "man millinery." He spoke very 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 67 

distinctly — ^his strong ringing voice resounding 
through the chapel with great clearness. Two 
handsome little Italian boys of eight or ten years 
of age, superbly di-essed in mai'oon -colored vel- 
vet, and who are the Pope's pages, interested us 
very much with their bright faces and sparkling 
eyes, and we could not but wonder what the future 
had in store for them. 

When the service was over, a very motley 
procession wended its way down the staircases 
and in the colonnade, composed of the Swiss 
Guard, ladies in black veils, cardinals in bright 
robes, and priests in every variety of sacerdotal 
garment. At the foot of the staircase, the 
superb carriages of the cardinals drove up, witli 
a coachman in full livery upon the box, and 
three footmen standing up behind, bedecked 
with velvet and gold embroidery, making a 
most showy appearance as they dashed rapidly 
along. 

"We have made very pleasant visits to some of 
the studios, and found most of the artists still in 
Rome, although it is getting late in the season. 
Mr. Mozier has some exquisite statues — among 
them the II Penseroso of Milton, full of dignity 



68 THE OLD WORLD 

and grace ; Rebecca at the Well, and tlie Prodigal 
Son, which is very expressive and beautiful. A 
lovely little statue called " Spring," representing 
a young girl plucking a flower, proved a tempta- 
tion to one of our party, and he became the 
fortunate possessor of the fair young creature. 
In the studio of the poet-painter, Mr. Buchanan 
Read, we were much interested in a picture called 
" Sheridan's Ride," which was intended to illus- 
trate liis well-known poem. The General's eager, 
earnest face, full of fire and courage, and the 
unflinching spuit of his superb horse, are very 
finely expressed, and the whole painting is life- 
like and animated. 

"We found many things in Miss Hosmer's 
studio to admire — the queenly Zenobia, and the 
laughing Puck, among them. The statue of 
Thomas H. Benton, made for the city of St. 
Louis, is very dignified and grand, although some 
one has said of it, that the " ideal Benton hangs 
his head, which the real Benton never did." 
Miss Hosmer's apartments looked so thoroughly 
charming, that we were not surprised at the 
fascination this land of art and song has for her. 
Mr. Terry had a lovely Marguerite on the easel, 
and there were also some other gems in his 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 69 

studio, in the way of portraits and historical 
paintings. In Mr. Rhinehart's studio we found 
much to delight us, but we were particularly 
charmed with his Hero — the Hero of Leander. 
Mr. Charles Francis Adams, our accomplished 
minister to England, stood quite spell-bound 
before this exquisitely graceful statue for some 
time, and we could not but admire his taste. 

After enjoying so many specimens of modern 
art, we paid a visit to the Vatican, where the 
galleries are so amazing as to defy all descrip- 
tion. New splendors open upon you continually, 
and its treasures are so numerous that no ima- 
gination can conceive their wonderful variety. 
Many of them are world-famous, but it would 
take a life-time fully to appreciate them all. The 
Apollo Belvidere standing so exaltant in his 
trixmaphant beauty, and the Laocoon so impres- 
sive in his dying agony, one can never forget. 
Equally impossible would it be to forget the 
Transfiguration, and Madonna di FoHgno of 
Raphael, the Communion of St. Jerome by 
Domenichino, and many others, which once seen, 
are forever impressed on the memory. 

We have been driving much about Rome, and 
everywhere we find it intensely interesting. 



70 THE OLD WORLD 

Some of the streets may be dirty and gloomy, 
but there is ahvays something to make one forget 
that they are so, and they are never common- 
place. Whichever way you turn a fountain is 
sure to be playing, for water is as abundant as 
the light of day itself, and these fountains are 
in themselves constant objects of pleasure. The 
ruins of Rome must be seen to be fully compre- 
hended. The Forum with its broken columns ; 
the temples, baths, palaces, and remains of old 
aqueducts — the Colosseum, vast and grand 
which now at the end of eighteen centuries is 
defying the touch of time. Great care, however, 
is taken to preserve it as it is, and in many 
places, new bricks have been inserted to prop 
the crumbling walls. The arches are very fine, 
and as one wanders imder them, and through 
the corridors, the deserted look, the intense 
silence, the drooping vines and grass upon the 
walls, and the evident disuse, are very striking. 
It is difficult to feel that those three galleries 
used to be filled with more than a hundi-ed 
thousand spectators, who assembled to witness 
and applaud scenes of cruelty which one shrinks 
to think of. Our second visit to the Colosseum 
was by moonlight, when it looked grander than 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 71 

ever, in the strong lights and shadows ; and as 
we wandered through some of the dark passages 
by the light of torches, we almost expected to 
naeet some of the shadowy forms of those who 
once fiUed those long, long vacated seats. 

The immense size of the structure is better 
appreciated when one ascends to the very top, 
although it is difficult even then to beheve (as 
has been computed) that " three hundred houses, 
twenty feet wide, and forty feet deep, with alleys 
between, could stand on the ground covered by 
the ruins of the great amphitheatre." 

They are still making excavations in Eome, 
and disclosing wonderful antiquities which have 
been hidden from human eyes for centuries ; and 
we were astonished at many of the new disco- 
veries in the Baths of Caracalla, and Palace of 
the Csesars, both of which are vast heaps of 
irregular ruins. Arches, cotu'ts, columns haK 
burned, and sometimes entire, meet the eye, 
covered with shrubs and flowers and grass — for 
nature seems to rejoice in making decay beauti- 
ful. Rooms with mosaic pavements have recently 
been revealed, the figures of the pavements re- 
taining their forms and colors perfectly, while 
marble columns and statuary have been brought 



72 THE OLD WOELD 

to light unbroten. We were very ranch amused 
with the jealous care vath which the excavations 
are guarded. One of our party picked up a 
rough piece of porphjTy from a heap of rubbish, 
as a little memento, and was immediately accosted 
by a soldier in uniform, who appeared so sud- 
denly, that he seemed to rise up out of the 
ground. Trifling as the pillage was, it was 
necessary to place it agaia where it was found, 
and afterwards, wherever we went, we saw that 
as watchful eyes were upon us, as if we were 
expected to run off with the entire ruins. 

It was rather refreshing to find something not 
in ruins, and we enjoyed very much our drive to 
the Borghese and Pamfili Doria villas, which are 
beautiful reminders of the old aristocratic life 
of Rome. Their present owners, however, are 
very glad to take the fees which are constantly 
brought by the throngs of visitors to these 
charming places. The grounds of the Villa 
Borghese are several miles in circumference, and 
beautifully diversified. There are avenues of 
grand old trees, and a profusion of foimtains and 
ancient statues. The interior of the villa is rich 
in marbles, mosaics, statues and pictures, the 
most famous modern statue being that of Pauline 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 73 

Borghese, the sister of Napoleon, represented as 
the Venas Victrix. She is recHning on a couch, 
and the position is most graceful, and her face 
very beautiful. It was for this statue that 
Pauline Bonaparte sat to Canova, with so httle 
draj)ery about her, that a lady troubled with 
some scruples on the score of delicacy, asked her 
if the exposure was not excessively disagreeable. 
"Not at all," was the reply, "the room was 
thoroughly warmed." 

Villa Pamfili Doria was once called Bel Respiro 
on account of its chmate, and its charming 
variety of scenery. The drive through the 
grounds is very extensive and beautiful. They 
are laid out in gardens, terraces and plantations, 
with fantastic fountains and cascades. The 
views from many points are very fine and exten- 
sive, and it is an interesting fact that nearly 
twenty years ago, the republican troops of 
Garibaldi occupied these grounds, and for many 
weeks maintaiaed their position against the 
whole power of the French army. Several dis- 
tinguished men on both sides fell here, during 
the struggles between the contending armies. 
The vOla itself is full of gems, and looked tho- 



74 THE OLD WOELD 

roughly comfortable and inhabitable, with its 
suites of charming rooms. 

A touching memento met our eyes from one of 
the windows, in the shape of a cluster of dark 
green laui-el bushes planted upon a sloping lawn, 
which were arranged in the form of letters, and 
spelt M-A-K-i-E, being in memoriam. The grass 
is kept closely cut, and the laurels trimmed, so 
that the letters are perfect in form, and the 
contrast of the dark green laiirel ^vith the light 
green turf, is beautiful. 

On our drive home from this lovely spot, we 
saw two of the " Noble Guard " approaching on 
horseback, and knew that they were the fore- 
runners of the Pope. So our carriage was 
driven up to the side of the street, and the 
masculine portion of its occupants alighted, and 
with hat in hand, awaited the arrival of his 
Holiness. It is expected that all in his way shall 
kneel, and we were surrounded by crowds who 
dropped upon the hard pavement with pious 
zeal ; but he waved his hands as benignly over us, 
as over them. He may have suspected us of 
being heretics, and thought we needed his bless- 
ing all the more. His face is kind and benevo- 
lent, and on the j)riuciple that "the blessing of 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 75 

an old man can do one no harm," we were not 
sorry to receive the Papal Benediction. 

We have not tried to do many of the churches? 
of which there are just as many as there are 
days in the year, but we have visited St. John 
Lateran, with its beautiful Corsini and Torlonia 
chapels. In the former is an exquisite picture 
in mosaic of Guido's portrait of St. Andrea 
Corsini, and in the vault beneath, a beautiful 
group by Bernrai, representing the Virgin 
supporting the dead Christ. The expression of 
maternal sorrow is most touching and wonderful, 
while the holy serenity into which the face of 
our Lord has subsided after its hours of agony, 
is very affecting. It seemed a fitting illustration 
of the words of the blind preacher — " Socrates 
died like a philosopher, but Jesus Christ like a 
God." 

Under a fine portico at one side of the Basi- 
lica, are the famous Scala Santa, said to have 
belonged to PUate's house, and the identical 
stairs which Christ descended when he left the 
judgment-seat. There are twenty-eight steps, 
and they are ascended by penitents on their 
knees, who say a short prayer at every step, and 
reverently kiss every place marked by a cross, 



76 THE OLD WOKLD 

showing where our Saviour's blood has fallen. So 
constant has been this ascent during many years, 
that it has been necessary to cover the marble 
with boards, which are occasionally renewed. 
One can hardly believe that in this enlightened 
age such things are practised by all classes ; but 
richly dressed ladies Eind gentlemen are often 
seen side by side with the most squalid beggars — 
aU crawling up together, and kissing the same 
ghastly crucifix at the top. It was here that 
grand old Martin Luther was toiling up on his 
knees, when the words "the just shaU live by 
faith," came so suddenly into his mind ; and from 
that time his belief in the doctrine of justification 
by faith became so decided. 

The Basilica of St. Paul, without the waUs, is 
very magnificent, abounding in mosaics, por- 
phyry, lapis lazuli and malachite. Four exquisite 
columns of alabaster support the canopy over the 
high altar, underneath which are said to lie the 
remains of St. Paul. The original church, which 
stood on this site many centuries, was burnt 
more than forty years ago, and princes and 
sovereigns have contributed to the erection of 
this gorgeous edifice. 

In St. Pietro in Vincoli we saw the wonderful 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 77 

colossal statue of Moses, by Micliael Angelo, 
originally intended for the Basilica of St. Peters. 
It is very grand and noble, but does not seem 
placed in a position to show its remarkable 
power. 

The church of the Capuccini contains the 
famous Archangel Michael, by Guido, called by 
some the Catholic Apollo, and said by Smohett 
to have " the airs of a French dancing-master." 
He is crushing Lucifer, his adversary, beneath 
his feet, and has, it cannot be denied, the look of 
"tripping on the light fantastic toe," — ^but the 
figure is both beautiful and graceful, and the 
face fuU of sweetness and power. We went 
underneath the church to see the four vaulted 
chambers which constitute the cemetery of the 
convent, and contain the bones of many thousand 
monks ; but when we saw the hideous array of 
bones and skulls which decorate the walls, and 
several skeletons standing erect, wearing the 
brown cloth robes of the order, we were glad to 
retreat as rapidly as possible. Everything is 
done to make these bones ornamental, but one 
cannot admire very much bouquets and gar- 
lands made of shoulder-blades and arms — nei- 
ther does a lamp formed of a skull, and fast- 



.78 THE OLD WOULD . 

ened to tlie ceiling by a chain of small bones, ' 
seem either desirable or elegant. 

One day, in driving tkrough the tomb-lined 
Appian way, we descended into the Catacombs 
of St. Sebastian, so long the hiding-places of the ; 
early persecuted Christians, It is impossible 
to visit these subterranean dwellings, without 
wondering how existence could have been borne 
there, even for a day ; they are such extremely 
dismal, melancholy places, and the air so tho- 
roughly chilling. Each of us carried a taper, 
which struggled for life in the heavy air, and 
only made the darkness more visible. We were 
conducted through long labyrinths, passage 
opening on passage, and now and then we 
entered small chapels with vaulted roofs. Every- 
where there were sepulchres hoUowed out of the 
soft rock, and the way was gloomy and dark. 
We all kept very near our guide, and I fully 
appreciated the thoughtfulness of a party who 
took the precaution to scatter small slips of 
paper from the entrance to the farthest point, 
that they might find their way back, in case the 
guide was seized with a fit of apoplexy ! I do 
not remember ever to have rejoiced in the 
glorious sunlight more thoroughly, than when 



_'"-^^S*V^*'' * 







THE CATACOMBS. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 79 

we emerged from ttose dreary abodes of tlie 
living and the dead. 

The Protestant Cemetery is very pleasantly 
situated ; and were there no other graves there 
than those of Shelley and Keats, it would be an 
object of great interest. The solemn pyramidal 
tomb of Cains Cestius, seems to watch over the 
place, which is kept in beautiful order, and 
contains much precious dust, as many English 
and Americans are now lying there. 

The "heart of hearts "of Shelley, which the 
fire on the shores of the Gulf of Spezzia could 
not consume, lies underneath a plain marble 
slab, in a lovely part of the grounds, while his 
friend, John Keats, is placed in an adjoining 
cemetery with the inscription he desired, engraved 
on his tombstone : " Here lies one whose name 
was writ in water." 

"'Tis writ, as tlion hast said, 
Upon the cold, gray marble there, 
Each word of that wild, bitter prayer, 

On which thy spirit fled ! 
But, oh, that injured name is known 
' Far as the birds of fame have flown. ' " 

One could not but hnger tenderly by the last 
resting-places of men of such loving, noble hearts, 



80 THE OLD WOELD 

and brilliant intellects, whose brief lives termi- 
nated so sadly. 

The Aurora of Guide, which Byron says, 

' ' alone 
Is worth a trip to Eome," 

is in a summer-house of the RospigUosi Palace, 
and is approached through a garden fragrant 
with flowers. The picture is a fresco on the 
ceiUng, and the coloring exquisitely soft and 
bright, while the radiant face of Apollo, and the 
eager steps and smiling faces of the graceful 
female figures representing the hours, are most 
charming. The beautiful horses, too, seem to 
exult in the scene, and plunge forward as if eager 
to drink in the glories of the new creation, while 
the flowers scattered by Avu^ora, look as if freshly 
plucked from the garden without. The picture 
is so attractive, that most fortunately, mu'rors 
have been placed beneath it in such a position 
that we could see the reflection with untiring 
eyes, and mthout aching necks. The constant 
looking up we foiind so wearisome as to be at 
last unendurable. 

Guido's famous portrait of Beatrice Cenei, in 
the Barbarini Palace, is famihar to every one 
through the copies which are scattered far and 



SEEN WITH YOUNG ETES. 81 

wide, and it was interesting beyond description 
to look upon the lovely origiaal. The beautiful 
eyes, swoUen -with weeping, and the look of 
hopeless misery in the face, appeal so touchingly 
to one's sympathy, that they haunt one long 
afterwards. Then the loose drapery, the stream- 
ing hair, and negligence of dress, only add to 
the pathos of the picture, while the full living 
look of the eyes is almost startling at the first 
glance. AH her grand heroism seems crushed 
out of her, and she looks now, when so near her 
execution, like a gentle, tender woman, needing 
the support and consolation which one wordd 
fain give, if it were possible. 

At the Capitol, we were much impressed with 
the Dying Gladiator, so grand and proud in his 
mortal anguish. One feels like gazing in total 
and earnest silence upon such a death pang as 
rends his brow. It is a comforting reflection, in 
looking upon this most touching and tragical 
representation, that marble men cannot suffer, 
for although he 

" Consents to death, but conquers agony," 
it becomes at length painfully sad. It was a 
relief to turn away and look, in the same haU, 
upon the beautiful Antinous, so full of life and 



82 ■ THE OLD WOELD 

strength, and sucli a perfect model of youttful, 
graceful manhood. The Venus of the Capitol, 
too, claimed our attention, but I fear we did not 
appreciate her merits fully, for we felt very little 
enthusiasm for her cold, senseless beauty. 

Our stay in Rome is so brief that we do not 
have many hours unoccupied of the fii'st days of 
summer which greet us here. The weather is 
warm, but in no wise uncomfortable, and we are 
willing to spare ourselves unavailing regrets in 
the future, by seeing all that we can now, leaving 
to more favored ones the pleasure of a more 
thorough investigation. 

" Early in life, when hope seems prophecy, 
And strong desire can sometimes mould a fate, 
My dream was of thy shores, Italy !" 

Now, how many of its " unnumbered beauties " 
are becoming mine ! 

Naples, June 11. 

Our last expedition in Rome was to the beau- 
tiful foimtain of Trevi, where by the light of a 
full moon, we drank to our return. Ah, how 
glorious was that brilliant moonlit night, and 
how earnestly we hoped that this enchanted 
water might be a spell to bring us back, at some 
futui'e time. Nous veri'o^is ! 



SEEN ■WITH YOUNG EYES. 83 

Our journey here was through as beautiful 
a country as eye ever rested upon. Albano 
was to the left of us — on either side, there 
were mountains, with the valley between highly 
cultivated. The inhabitants live mostly in 
villages clustered upon the sides of the moun- 
tains, and for many miles before reaching Naples, 
the country is entirely occupied as vegetable 
gardens. About ten miles from the city we came 
in sight of Mount Vesuvius, with a cloud of 
smoke wreathing its top ; and soon we were at 
the railway station, beset by a crowd of yelling 
Neapolitans, aU eager to do something, or get 
something, for we have long ago discovered that 
beggary is one of the prominent features of Italy. 
Everywhere, we are surrounded by beggars ; and 
they make their appearance in the most startling 
and repulsive manner and at the most unexpected 
times. On this occasion the Httle bright-eyed, 
dirty boys amused us very much, and it was 
difficult to resist their appeals for " maccaroni," 
made with such laughing faces, and froHcking 
somersets and gestures. 

We were soon estabHshed in most sumptuous 
quarters, having nearly the whole Hotel Wash- 
ington to ourselves — our rooms looking out 



84 THE OLD WORLD 

upon the beautiful bay, with Vesuvius in full 
view from the windows, and lovely Capri in fi-ont 
of us. Our tea was served on a balcony over- 
hanging the water, near a pretty garden, and it 
is difficult to imagine anything more thoroughly 
enchanting. In the evening we spent an hour 
at the Villa Reale, a pleasant promenade skirting 
the shore, planted with trees, and adorned with 
statuary. There was music, talking, walking, 
eating ices, and although but an ordinary occa- 
sion, it seemed quite hke a fete. People in this 
dehcious climate Hve out of doors, and make the 
most of everything in the way of pleasure. 
Sunday was a national festival, and conse- 
quently, very imhke a day of quiet and rest. 
The parading of the miHtary, martial-music, 
crowded streets, the national salute morning 
and evening, created a great deal of noise and 
confusion generally. We heard a very earnest 
sermon at the Scotch Church in the morning, 
or we should hardly have recognized the day as 
Sunday. In the evening, Vesuvius blazed up 
hke a vast furnace, and we felt as we saw the 
various flashes, what vast reservoirs of fire and 
flame were within, and what havoc might be the 
result of their outpouring. There was also an 




^gg f-Wv^ iillUiltlllilli iJllililill"'"''''!""''""''''-'"'^' 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 85 

illumiaation of the city, in honor of the festival, 
and many of the buildings looked very beauti- 
ful. The curious stalls at the sides of the 
streets, with oysters, and various unpalatable- 
looking eatables, were a great featnre of the 
scene. The persons having charge of these 
dehcacies were excessively dirty, and excessively 
noisy. We were not sorry to get out of the way 
of their importunities to buy, and hurried home, 
satisfied that an ItaUan crowd is an undesirable 
one to mingle with. 

On Monday we drove through the Grotto of 
PosilijDpo, above the entrance of which is the 
Tomb of Virgil. The grotto is about half a mile 
in length, and anything but inviting to eye or 
nose ; being badly lighted, narrow and dirty. 
We found a charming country beyond, however, 
and followed the sea as far as Pozzuoli, where we 
were immediately attacked by ragged urchins, 
and filthy beggars, who surrounded and followed 
the carriage, offering their services as guides, 
and thrusting bits of stones, old coins, and dried 
sea horses in our faces. Annoying as it was, we 
could not but pity the poor wretches, and make 
some sHght purchases. Everywhere we went, 
there seemed to be vagabonds waiting for theii 



86 THE OLD WOKLD 

prey, and ready to dart out upon us, and we 
found it unsafe to admire a pretty child on her 
mother's \ap, for we were immediately implored 
to give her something. " Datemi qualche cosa," 
is on every one's hps. 

The ruins of a temple here dedicated to Jupiter 
Serapis, are very remarkable, although many of 
its beautiful columns and statues have been 
removed. The very stone, too, on which St. 
Paul landed, is shown, and we looked at it rather 
doubtingly, whUe we could not but pity any one, 
who either then, or now, had occasion to land in 
this vOe, dirty place. But the drive along the 
shore was beautiful, and the country one of un- 
equalled interest. We pursued our way to Baie, 
where Cicero, Horace, Pliny and Virgil once 
lived ; passing Lake Avernus and Lake Lucrine. 
Near the former Lake is the Sybil's Cave, im- 
mortalized by Virgil. Visitors enter it clinging 
to the back of an uncleanly guide, who carries a 
torch, and plunges through dirty water, two or 
three feet deep. When once within, they see 
" two small chambers, two bathing tubs, a flight 
of stone steps leading up to a closed door ; a 
few stucco figures very much begrimed with the 
smoke of torches, black walls, and blacker 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 87 

water !" Only one of our party was sufficiently 
classical to visit this charming spot, and we 
suspected that he was considerably disgusted, 
although, like aU sight-seers who are taken in, he 
was unwilling to acknowledge it. 

"We preferred driving the fourteen miles from 
Naples to Pompeii instead of taking the cars, 
and passed through Portici, Annunziata, and 
Torre del Greco, all composed of long streets, 
swarming with people, carts and donkeys. The 
poor little oppressed, over-loaded donkeys, are a 
constant tax upon our sympathy. They are so 
brutally treated that I am often tempted to 
appeal to their hard-hearted masters for mercy, 
even with the probability of drawing down upon 
myself the sarcasm used under similar circum- 
stances : " I did not know that my donkey had 
relations about here !" 

On all sides during this drive, we discovered 
proofs of the devastating power of the volcano, 
while at the same time the soil is so fertile, that 
cultivation showed rtseK in the midst of the 
cinders and lava, everywhere to be seen. Pompeii 
itself, in all its lonely desolation, is very attractive, 
and one cannot visit it without inexpressible 
emotion. Yet, with a hot sun shining on the 



88 THE OLD WOKLD 

pavement, and not a tree to be seen, we found it 
extremely fatiguing to wander through its un- 
tenanted dwellings, and quiet streets. The 
houses are so small, that it is very evident the 
great enjoyment was in pubHc life. The forum, 
the baths, the theatre, are all on a grand scale, 
and capable of accommodating great numbers. 
The ancient inhabitants undoubtedly lived mostly 
in the open air, as their descendants do. Their 
houses all have a central court, beautifully paved 
with mosaic, with a fountain in the centre. 
Around this, the family and guests could gather 
to gossip or rest. Some of these fountains were 
very beautiful, and adorned with statuary and 
mosaics. The rooms too, looking out upon the 
court, are often decorated with exquisite taste, 
the paiatings upon the walls beiag wonderfully 
brilliant in color. The subjects are mostly my- 
thological. 

The streets are so narrow that one can almost 
jump across them, and there are ruts still 
visible, made by the wheels of carts. Now and 
then, high stepping stones are seen for the use 
of pedestrians, in crossing. Some of the houses 
must have been very extensive and luxurious — 
those of Diomed and Sallust were particularly 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 89 

SO. In the wine cellar of the former were found 
the skeletons of eighteen adults and two children, 
who had fled there for refuge when the sudden 
calamity came upon them. The impressions of 
their bodies are still distinctly seen upon the 
walls, and one can imagine the agony and despair 
of these hopeless, helpless beings. 

" The palace is empty ; the merchant's gold 

Is uncounted upon his floor ; 
The affrighted bridegroom hath tm-ned and fled, 
And the priest hath left his prayer unsaid, 
And the mourner stays not to bury his dead 

In that all-tremendous houi\" 

The street of the Tombs in Pompeii is very 
much as it was originally, and the Tombs are 
nearly entire. Some of them are very beautiful, 
and they all show the reverence with which the 
ancients regarded the ashes of their ancestors. 
Intercourse with the dead was maintained by 
keeping their monuments and images in sight, 
and thus cheerfulness, not gloom, was associated 
with the idea of death. In a small museum, we 
saw the four bodies which have been found in 
recent excavations. , Cinders had hardened around 
the bodies during their decay, thus forming a 
mould— hquid plaster was poured in, and thus 
the perfect forms obtained. One figure is that 



^0 THE OLD WOELD 

of a young woman, with her hand partly over 
her face, as if shutting out some fearful sight. 
There are two other women and a man thus 
strangely brought to the light of day, after so 
many centuries of darkness and decay. The 
museum contains some household remains and 
other reHcs, but the most valuable curiosities are 
in the extensive museum at Naples, where whole 
rooms are paved with mosaics brought from 
Pompeii, and decorated with frescoes, statues 
and bronzes, from the same source. There are 
also vases and jars containing figs, corn, and 
nuts, and whole loaves of bread still bearing the 
baker's mark. Rich jewels, too, are seen — ^rings, 
necklaces, head ornaments, armlets and anklets. 

After our long walk we were glad to rest for a 
time in the museum at Pompeii, after which we 
sought refuge in a dirty little inn near by, where 
we enjoyed our luncheon with some very tame 
doves, which flocked about our feet picking up 
crumbs, and walked past us in the most fi-iendly 
manner possible. Our drive to Castellamare 
and from thence to Sorrento, the same afternoon, 
was charming. The road, after leaving Castella- 
mare, wound along the bank for miles, with a 
constant succession of varied views. On the 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 91 

right lay the radiant sea, deeply, beautifully blue, 
while the water at the base of the rocks beneath 
us assumed the colors of the emerald, or re- 
flected other hues, according to the influence of 
light and shade, rock and depth. Capri and 
Ischia lying against the pale azure sky, looked in 
their vapory atmosphere like beautiful visions. 
On the left were shattered mountains, projecting 
crags, cultivated vaUeys — ^while orange, lemon 
and olive trees greeted us on every side. "We 
passed from one scene of enchantment to another, 
until we reached the Tramontano Hotel at 
Sorrento, which we entered through a luxuriant 
garden filled with oranges, lemons, roses and 
myrtles. On the other side it overhangs a tall 
cHfi", against which the waves are eternally dashing. 
Seated in our pleasant rooms, their balconies 
high above the sea, with the balmy air, the 
glorious moonhght, the pure sky, and all the 
other bright surroundings, was like a dream of 
perfect bliss. The next morning was so fine, and 
the sea so smooth, that we were tempted to take 
a boat, vnth. four stout oarsmen, for Capri and 
the Blue Grotto. The trip of twelve miles, we 
were told, could be accomplished in two hours, 
and our return much shortened, should the wind 



92 THE OLD WORLD 

prove favorable. So we started early and gayly 
in a large, weU-cusliioned boat, with a striped 
awning — our neat-looking rowers beguiling the 
way with their pleasant ItaHan songs. The two 
houi's soon passed, and we found ourselves near 
the rock-bound coast of Capri, while a sniiall 
boat, looking at first like a mere speck, came 
dancing towards us, to bear us into the famous 
Blue Grotto. A hideous old man, and an equally 
hideous boy, took two of us at a time in the 
frail-looking bark, and after stoopiag very low, a 
wave sent us scratching thi-ough the small 
aperture which leads into the wonderful cavern, 
where the water that di'ips sparkling from the 
oars is intensely blue, and the lovely color pre- 
vails everywhere. The fascinating old man 
insisted on diving for our benefit, promising for 
five francs to come out of the water looking 
wondrously radiant. But we were more than 
satisfied with his present appearance, and de- 
clined, much to his disgust. Our sail home was 
short, and most agreeable, and after yielding to 
some temptations in the way of the beautiful 
Sorrento wood-work — looking upon the house in 
which the great Itahan poet, Tasso, was born, 
and taking a short time for rest and refreshment. 



SEEN WITH YOUNa EYES. 93 

we left for Naples. Most reluctantly we left, for 
surely the wide earth does not contain a more 
lovely, bewitching spot than Sorrento. 

With the sea caressing her feet, oHve-clad 
hills protecting her on one side — flowers and 
fruits thrown profusely in her lap — balmy 
breezes, and bright skies her constant attendants 
— she sits in beauty, fairest of the fair. 

We returned to CasteUamare, by the same 
road over which we had driven before, and were 
not sorry to feed our eyes again on the same 
divine prospect. 

Our pleasant rooms at the hotel, in Naples, 
looking upon Sorrento, which we had so recently 
left, seemed now to possess a new charm, as we 
gazed across the glorious bay upon what we 
might well call the "pride and darling of this 
delicious shore." 

Milan. 

The old proverb, " See Naples and then die," 
occurred to me, as we stepped on board one of 
the frail-looking Italian steamers at Naples, and 
were about trusting ourselves to the tender 
mercies of the treacherous Mediterranean. But 
the Cristofero Colombo proved worthy of its 
great namesake, and was both well-ordered and 



94 THE OLD WORLD 

appointed ; and although it danced the sailor's 
hornpipe, and floundered about generally more 
than was quite comfortable, we had a sale and 
tolerably pleasant voyage. The morning after 
leaving Naples found us passing the Island of 
Elba, and we all looked with interest upon a 
scene so associated with Napoleon's first exile. 
Nor did we forget that the last words of the 
noble, heroic Josephine were, " Isle of Elba — 
Napoleon." 

We were not long in reaching Leghorn, and 
were much surprised to see a gang of Italian 
banditti collecting upon the deck, chained to- 
gether in couples. They had been our feUow- 
passengers, and were on the point of landing to 
expiate their crimes — how or when, we could not 
learn. Some of them looked as if it might be 
mere child's play to cut off the ears or nose of a 
captive, as is frequently done by them, while 
others were quite crest-fallen. One of the party 
enjoyed the unenviable reputation of having 
committed several murders, while aU were, more 
or less, desperadoes. As they went clanking over 
the sides of the vessel, strongly guarded, we were 
glad that we had never found ourselves 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 95 

" In an ill-starred hour 
Beset, and in a Bandit's power." 

As we did not remember our former visit to 
Leghorn with much pleasure, we decided to 
remain quietly on the steamer, during our day in 
the harbor. We found it sufficiently amusing to 
watch the various crafts about us, and to hear 
the reports of those who trusted themselves with 
the brigands on shore. Another night at sea, 
and we were in Genoa, which seemed quite like 
home, as we went again to the Croix di Malta 
and received the welcome of the friendly land- 
lord. Part of the day sufficed for us here, and 
late in the afternoon we entered one of the ten 
gates of Milan, and drove to the Hotel Cavour, 
pleasantly situated near a public garden. Our 
windows look out upon a square, in the centre of 
which is a beautiful monument to that great 
man. Count Cavour, to whom Italy owes so much. 

It is pleasant to see the obligation to him so 
universally recognized, for in honoring him, Italy 
honors herself. This monument consists of a 
bronze statue standing on a marble pedestal, 
with no other inscription than Cavour, which a 
graceful female figure, representing Fame, has 



96 THE OLD WORLD 

just written, and is still holding the pen upon 
the last letter. 

Milan is so bright, clean and cheerful, and has 
such a decided look of prosperity about it, that 
we have enjoyed our sojourn here very much. 
The Cathedral cannot but astonish and dehght 
with its wondrous beauty. The marble of which 
it is built has become mellowed by time, but is 
none the less effective because its dazzling white- 
ness has disappeared ; while the thousands of 
statues of endless variety of sculpture, everywhere 
to be seen, render it most elaborately beautiful 
The stained glass windows, some of which are 
very old, are very rich in coloring, and the pave- 
ment, composed of red, blue, and white mosaics, 
is extremely tasteful. Wherever one stands in 
this noble edifice, that particular portion forms a 
separate study, and the lofty arches and clusters 
of pillars render it most majestic and grand. 
"We were present at one of the Corpus Christi 
ceremonies at twilight, when a long procession 
of priests with Hghted torches passed through the 
different aisles, chanting their service. The 
effect was very picturesque, and seemed more 
like an act in some di'ama, than a real repre- 
sentation. In order fully to appreciate this most 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 97 

magnificent structure, one must ascend to the 
roof, where its prodigality of adornments, forest 
of exquisitely carved pinnacles, each one sur- 
mounted by a statue, fill one with amazement. 
Our guide pointed a telescope to many very 
beautiful statues by Canova, which are neai-ly out 
of sight. The view from the roof is very fine on 
a clear day, comprising the plains of Lombardy, 
the Apennines, and the Alps, but we were not 
fortunate enough to see it in its perfection. The 
near view was very distinct, but mists veiled the 
mountains, and rendered them very obscure. 

We were very glad to find a pretty little chapel 
in Milan erected for the use of Protestants. The 
service was dehghtful to us, and we heard a very 
impressive sermon on the Love of the Brethren 
as an indispensable characteristic of a true 
Christian. The congregation was not large, but 
we enjoyed with grateful hearts the privilege oi 
again joiniag in our beautiful Liturgy with those 
whose language and behef were our own. 

We went to the church of Santa Maria delle 
Grazia, in order to see in the refectory of the 
old convent, the famous Last Supper of Leonardo 
da Vinci. Engravings give one a very good idea 
of the picture, but the original has been so 
7 



98 THE OLD WOELD 

disfigured by time, neglect and dampness, and 
the colors are so faded, that it is difficult to form 
any idea of its former beauty. It is a remark- 
able fact that the head of Christ has been 
preserved more perfectly than any of the others, 
and the face retains much of its heavenly sweet- 
ness. Da Vinci was sixteen years painting this 
celebrated picture, and acknowledged himself 
unable to express his conceptions of the character 
of our Saviour. But his success has been con- 
sidered far beyond that of any other artist who 
has attempted the same subject. It is a sad 
thought that in a few years the picture must 
entirely disappear — indeed, it is remarkable that 
it noiv exists, when one remembers that when 
Napoleon turned the monastery into barracks, 
this room was used as a stable, and that the 
picture was painted more than three centuries 
ago. 

We have found the shops in Milan very at- 
tractive, and the beautiful new glass-covered 
arcade, so bright and cheerful, that there is a 
constant temptation to go there and sit by the 
tables in front of the Cafes, to enjoy oui- ices, 
and watch the passers by. The women look very 
handsome with thgu" long black veils thrown 



SEEN WITH YOXJNGt EYES. 99 

carelessly over their heads, and worn in th 
place of a bonnet. Everywhere we see photo- 
graphs of Prince Humbert and the Princess 
Marguerite, whose marriage has given so much 
satisfaction to their loving subjects. In all the 
jewellers' shops we notice ornaments of all kinds 
and descriptions made to resemble the pretty 
flower, the Marguerite. It has become the 
favorite decoration for both rich and poor, while 
the fair young bride herself is seldom seen with- 
out it. 

Bellagio, Lake Como. 
Our flight here was quite sudden, as one of 
our party was too iU to remain long, " in popu- 
lous cities pent." So we took the cars for Como, 
the approach to which is exceedingly picturesque 
and mountainous. The town itself has lost much 
of its former importance, and looks like anything 
but the rival of Milan, which it once was. The 
situation, however, is lovely, and it boasts the 
ruins of an old castle of feudal times, which 
stands on a pinnacle overhanging the town. The 
scenery on the lake is beautiful in the extreme, 
and endless in its variety — so beautiful that it is 
impossible to imagine or describe its charms. 
The margin is studded with villas, while many of 



lOO the old wobld 

the hills are terraced, and myrtles, olive and fig 
trees give variety to the foliage. When we 
reached the Hotel Grand Bretagne on the border 
of the lake at Bellagio, we were thoroughly 
enchanted. It was delicious to sit by the shore 
and enjoy the glorious view, until a late hour in 
the evening. Our morning was spent on the top 
of the great cathedral at Milan — one of the most 
marvellous works of man. The evening was 
spent amidst God's great temples, whose towers 
and turrets are the mountains, and whose pin- 
nacles pierce the skies ; whose ceihngs are the 
canopy of Heaven, lighted up by myriads of 
stars. How grand and sublime the thoughts 
inspu'ed in such a sanctuary ! 

The next morning we wandered up a hill over- 
hanging Bellagio, to visit the grounds of the 
Villa Serbelloni, which is on a promontory that 
divides the lake into two branches. The views 
in all directions are very fine, and the gardens 
embellished with every species of flowering 
shrub. 

From various points, both branches of the lake 
can be seen, with the Alps in the distance, which 
looked rose-colored in the morning light. Late 
in the afternoon we took a small, gayly-painted 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 101 

boat, and were rowed over the lake to the Villa 

Carlotta, which is owned by the Prince of Saxe- 

Meinengen. We landed on marble steps which 

are built into the lake, and ascended two other 

flights, with vines covering the balustrades, and 

fountains at every landing-place that 

' ' gushed forth 
In the midst of roses." 

One double flight of steps was completely 
covered with a luxirriant passion vine, which was 
one mass of flowers. We entered a magnificent 
vestibule, where are some beautiful bas rehefs of 
Thorwalsden, representing the triumph of Alex- 
ander. They were made for the arch at Milan, 
but afterwards bought for this lovely villa. There 
were many statues by Canova, among them the 
original plaster cast of his Magdalen. All the 
rooms contained pictures and statuary, and each 
window looked out upon more lovely pictures 
than those within. The grounds are exquisitely 
beautiful, with glorious views up and down the 
lake, and the whole scene was so Hke the one 
described by Claude Melnotte to his Pauline, that 
we could not but think he meant that very sj)ot, 
although most other villas probably suggest the 
same oft-quoted lines. 



102 THE OLD WORM) 

" A palace lifting to eternal summer 
Its marble walls, from out a glossy bower 
Of coolest foliage, musical with birds, 
Whose songs should syllable thy name !" 

To make this description still more like a 
cliarmiag reality, as we were walking through 
the enchanted bowers, a nightingale commenced 
pouring forth strain after strain of most joyous 
melody. We stood entranced for some time, 
listening to his dehcious notes, which made the 
whole air vocal. As we floated back to our hotel 
with the glow of the setting sun upon the sur- 
rounding mountains, we felt that the half had 
not been told of this enchanting lake — doubly 
enchanting at this twilight hour. 

Venice. 

The next morning we had a three hours' row 
to Lecco, enjoying the exquisite views that met 
us at every step of the way, and then we took 
our last look at the lovely lake, and were soon on 
our way to Venice. The whole country seemed 
a succession of gardens, vineyards, and fields of 
grain, and Lago di Garda, with its beautiful 
surroundings, was in sight for some distance. 
This lake, which vies with Como in beauty, is 
nearly enclosed by the Alps, which form a 
mountain wall around it, and so soften its 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 103 

climate that the most delicate grapes and fruits 
ripen upon its shores. 

The approach to Venice was so sudden that we 
could hardly believe we were actually in the 
wonderful city which seems to belong neither to 
the sea nor to the land. Yet when we were 
seated in the funereal-looking gondola, with its 
black cushions and blacker covering, we felt how 
unhke the departure from any other railway 
station it was. As we ghdcd along, we saw many 
evidences of former magnificence, in the palaces 
lining the canals, and soon approached one with 
a decided air of antique grandeur clinging to it. 
This proved to be oiu- hotel, and it seemed odd 
enough to row up to the very vestibide, while a 
carpeted plank was thrust into the boat, on 
which we walked into the house. The ancient 
adornments, and evident look of fallen greatness 
were very striking in the various apartments, 
while the carved chairs and cabinets and chests, 
were enough to drive an antiquary wild. One 
could not but think of the fair Ginevra, and 
the " old oak chest " in which she had sprung 

" Fluttering with joy, the happiest of the happy," 
and which closed upon her forever. 

Our hotel is but a short distance from the 



104 THE OLD WORLD 

noble square of St. Marks, where we can walk at 
our leisure, when we are tired of floating in a 
gondola, which we hire as we would a carriage 
elsewhere. In this warm, sunny weather, they 
are covered with a striped awning, sometimes ia 
gay colors, which is a vast improvement on the 
sombre look which law has compelled th^ gondolas 
to wear. 

We have floated under the Eialto, with its 
one beautif jl stone arch, where formerly the 
jDrincely merchants met to transact business. 
But its original greatness is gone, and the shops 
are small and mean and dirty. Unioubtedly 
Shylocks are to be found there still. We have 
floated, too, beneath the Bridge of Sighs, with 
"a palace and a jnison on each hand," for we 
see the outside of things here, more than anything 
else, and gliding along in this quiet way, is a 
constant delight. Certainly, never was anything 
more remarkable than the canals of Venice — 
some broad, lined with magnificent old palaces ; 
and others so narrow, with lofty houses on each 
side, that a ray of sunshine can seldom reach 
them — while the sound of wheels and horses' 
hoofs is unknown. We were rowed out to the 
Island of San Lazaro to see the convent founded 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 105 

by an Armenian who bought the island long ago 
for the benefit of his countrymen. 

Lord Byron spent much time in study here, 
where pupils are educated for various professions. 
We were conducted about by a handsome young 
priest, in the long, flowing black robes of the 
order. He showed us the chapels, Hbraries, 
cloisters and priating-office — also the place in 
the Hbrary where Lord Byron studied; his 
portrait, with the turn-down collar, and his 
autograph in English and Armenian. The 
autograph of poor Maximihan and his broken- 
hearted Carlotta, were also there. In the re- 
fectory there is a small pulpit where one of the 
young monks reads aloud while the others are at 
their meals. A cruel custom which we felt had 
better be dispensed with, and a Httle pleasant, 
cheerful conversation allowed in its stead. 

There is a fine garden attached to the convent, 
and a wonderful Artesian well, surmounted by a 
bronze cow and calf; and near by, some real 
cows, splendid looking creatures, whose milk is 
sold in Venice. We were quite charmed with 
everything, and felt that those were fortunate 
students who found a residence on that lovely 
island. Our return to Venice was by sunset, 



106 THE OLD WORLD 

and we enjoyed the luxurious indolence wliich 
only a gondola can give— -its soft cushions and 
gliding motion putting one into a delicious 
state of dreamy repose. In the evening we went 
to the square of St. Marks, where there is 
always music in fine weather, and where throngs 
assemble to enjoy it. All nations are represented 
in the various groups seated around the little 
tables, partaking of ices, and the scene is very gay 
and picturesque. In the midst of it aU, the 
demands of the venders of small wares for the 
sale of their articles, is incessant. You are 
offered bracelets, nets and necklaces of shell 
work ; shoes, slippers, and miniature gondolas^ 
made of every conceivable material, and these 
things are persistently thrust upon you, wherever 
you may be. 

It is difficult to beUeve there, that the splendor 
and wealth of Venice belong to the past, for the 
square itself is surrounded by objects still mag- 
nificent and perfect. The church of St. Mark, so 
rich and oriental in its magnificence, the palace 
of the Doges, the tall Campanile, the clock tower, 
the arcades with then* gay shops and cafes, the 
old palaces, and the two granite columns — one 
surmounted by the v^inged lion of St Mark, and 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 107 

the other by the statue of a saint — all form a 
picture of wonderful beauty ; a picture so unlike 
anything else we have seen that we seem suddenly 
to have been transported to a different cHme. 
Every day at two o'clock pigeons are fed in 
the square, and these pigeons are so decidedly 
the proteges of the city, that any person found 
iU-treating them is arrested. It is believed by 
some, that they fly around the city three times 
every day in honor of the Trinity, and that their 
presence is a protection from an incursion of the 
sea. We saw them fed one day, and the moment 
the clock struck two, although scarcely any were 
seen a moment before, there was an immediate 
flutter of wings from all directions, and the 
pavement in front of the window from which the 
food was thrown was covered with a flock of the 
active httle creatures. They all looked plump 
and weU fed, and carried themselves as if quite 
conscious of their importance and safety. 

The churches of Venice are among the finest 
in the world ; and that of St. Mark, rich as it is 
in marbles and mosaics, is also rich in historical 
associations, being linked with the history of 
Venice for many centuries. In a chapel which is 
kept securely locked, we saw some of the treasures 



108 THE OLD WOKLD 

of St. Mark — among them a lock of the Virgin 
Mary's hair, the stones with which Stephen was 
stoned to death, a piece of the true cross, and a 
small scrap of the robe of Jesus. In the baptistry 
we were shown the altar-table, formed of a large 
granite slab, left in its natural state, brought 
from Mount Tabor, upon which our Saviour 
performed the miracle of the loaves and fishes. 
The stone on which John the Baptist was be- 
headed is also in the baptistry. In the church 
of Santa Maria Gloriosa di Frari, we found monu- 
ments to Titian and Canova — both of them beau- 
tiful and elaborate — the latter having been 
partially copied from a design by Canova himself, 
for the Archduchess Christine, at Vienna. The 
church of Santa Maria delle Salute, was erected 
as a grateful thanksgiving by the inhabitants of 
Venice, after the disappearance of the plague, 
more than two himdred years ago. It is beauti- 
fully situated on the grand canal, and contains 
some glorious pictures. Titian's Descent of the 
Holy Ghost, and St. Mark with four other Evan- 
gelists, impressed us very much. Tintoretto's 
Marriage of Cana, and some Madonnas of Sasso- 
ferato, are also thei'e, and are very beautiful. 
We have wandered through the Doge's Palace 




BRIDGE OF SIGHS. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 109 

with its Giant Stairs and great gorgeous halls 
and chambers, the ceilings of which are elabo- 
rately covered with pictures by Tintoretto, Titian, 
and Paul Veronese. From all this magnificence 
we descended into the dark dismal dimgeons 
beneath, where in ceUs not more than six or 
seven feet square, with a few inches of grating, 
opening into a dingy gallery, the prisoners of 
state spent years of agony and despair. One 
could not but look at them with horror, and as 
we stood upon the Bridge of Sighs, with its 
grated windows looking out upon a narrow 
canal, we thought of the many who had passed 
over there, leaving all hope behind, and shuddered. 
We were glad to escape from these scenes of 
suffering, and enjoyed very much wandering over 
the Pisani Palace, belonging to an old aristo- 
cratic Venetian famUy. The long suite of rooms 
through which we passed looked so thoroughly 
comfortable, elegant and inhabitable, that it was 
charming to look upon them, and imagine plea- 
sant family gatherings there. Many of the 
rooms were hung with rich satin damask, and 
the furniture covered with the same material, 
while handsome paintings, statuary, and various 
objects of value, decorated the room. In one 



110 THE OLD WOELD 

bed-room we saw a superb counterpane of old 
Venetian lace over the blue satin covering of the 
bed. Some of the sofa piUows were also covered 
with this elegant lace, and we could not but 
think how much some fine ladies would have 
coveted this rare article thus lavishly thrown 
about. 

Our last expedition in Venice was to the top 
of the Campanile, where we had a magnificent 
view of the Adriatic, the distant mountains, and 
Venice itself, securely seated on its seventy-two 
islands. 

Verona, June 21. 

We preferred spending Stmday in this quaint 
old town to remaining in Venice, which, with all 
its attractions, we foimd very warm. So we 
came here in a flash, by the cars, and drove into 
the old home of the Montagues and Capulets, in 
a shower of rain which beat dovni upon us 
unmercifully. But we could see, even then, as 
we di-ove through streets of famous old palaces, 
and high houses with carved stone balconies, 
that it was a beautiful old town, and that its 
situation on the Kiver Adige was most dehghtful. 

After resting and refi'eshing ourselves at the 
Hotel, "Tower of London," the sun came out 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. Ill 

most gloriously, and "we drove through curious old 
streets to the Amphitheatre, which is extremely 
imposing, and but little smaller than the Colos- 
seum at Rome. In eleven hundred and eighty- 
four it was damaged by an earthquake, but is, 
notwithstanding, in wonderful preservation, and 
a most refaarkable monument of the ancient 
Romans. Every one, when here, thinks of Juliet 
and her sad fate, and looks poetically upon the 
gloomy and dilapidated house of the Capulets, 
where poor JuHet talked to her lover from a 
balcony overlooking the garden. The house is 
now used as an inn for Vetturini — the court-yard 
is full of old carts and wine casks, and all the 
charms of the place seem to have departed with 
the " sweet saint " herself. 

From the house, we drove to the tomb of 
JuHet, which we found at the end of a dreary 
garden, in a building looking much hke a car- 
penter's shop. The custodian unlocked the door 
and we saw an open stone trough of rough 
Verona marble, with a stone pillow within it, and 
a hole at the foot for the admittance of air. It 
is a remarkable fact that it should be necessary 
to protect this monument carefully, in order that 
travellers may not carry it away, piecemeal. I 



112 THE OLD WORLD 

am afraid our guide thought us decidedly in- 
credulous, when we gave him his fee, and went 
half laughing and half scolding back through 
the mud to our carriage. 

There are some beautiful churches in Verona. 
In that of St. Zenone, belonging to the tweKth 
century, there is a statue of St. Zeno, an African 
Bishop of Verona in thi-ee hundred and sixty- 
two, which is of jet black marble, and the effect 
is very strange. The church has some wonderful 
sculptures upon the bronze doors, and carvings 
in stone upon the front, which are very quaint 
and curious. Near the chapel of Santa Maria 
Antica in the heart of the city, are some most 
remarkable old tombs of the Scaliger family, 
which have stood in all their graceful beauty five 
hundred years. They are protected by a light 
iron railing, and the monuments are very high 
and very elaborate, the tallest one being sur- 
mounted by an equestrian statue. It has been 
said that these magnificent sepulchres are of 
such " grace and opulence, that unless a language 
be invented full of lance-headed characters, and 
Gothic vagaries of arch and finial, flower and 
fruit, bird and beast, they can never be de- 
scribed." So / shall not make the attempt. As 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 113 

there was no English service on Sunday, we went 
to the cathedral, where we heard very fine music, 
and feasted our eyes on Titian's Assumption of 
the Virgin — a sermon in itself. 

Munich, June 25. 

"We left Verona at a very early hour on 
Monday, for Innsbruck, by rail. After spending 
weeks in a chmate which we began to find some- 
what exhausting, it was with a feeling of exiilta- 
tion that we found ourselves among the mountains, 
almost immediately after leaving Verona, and in 
the midst of the surpassingly grand and impres- 
sive scenery of the Tyrol. 

The railroad over the Brenner Pass is a 
stupendous work, and is most creditable to those 
who projected and executed it. Were it not that 
it is so admirably managed, one could not but 
feel a sense of danger as the traia, like a thing of 
life, wiads its way around the mountains. The 
towering cliffs above, and the deep chasms be- 
neath, inspire not only feelings of awe, but at 
times, terror. It was difficult, at first, to look 
out and see what was above and beneath, with- 
out a shudder ; and had not our confidence in 
the care and skill of those who had charge been 
well assured, the expedition would have been 
8 



114. THE OLD WORLD 

almost painful. As it was, we all enjoyed the 
excitement, and when about thirty miles before 
reaching Innsbruck, we were greeted with a view 
of the snow-capped summits of the Tyrolese 
Alps, we could not find words enough to express 
our intense delight. We sprang from one side 
of the car to the other, unwilling to lose any 
of the glorious views that met our eyes, as w^e 
were whirled rapidly along. 

Innsbruck is most charmingly situated on the 
River Inn, in the middle of a valley whose sides 
are formed by mountains covered with snow, and 
which seem so near that it has been said " the 
wolves prowling about the mountain-tops, look 
down into the streets." However, we saw no 
wolves, and soon after reaching there found our. 
selves at the most comfortable Hotel d' Autriche, 
situated in a wide street, hned with shops, many 
of which were beneath arcades, with dweUings 
above. Having ordered a carriage, a low vehicle 
containing two seats soon made its appearance, 
with a horse fastened by the head, and withoiit 
traces, to one side of a huge tongue projecting 
from the centre of the wagon. We thought, at 
first, that the other animal had become disabled, 
and that one horse was expected to do double 



RT.r.:; WITH youxg eyes. 115 

duty on this occasion, but we soon learned tliat 
this was the style Tyrolian. So we seated our- 
selves right merrily, and the horse started off at 
a brisk pace. But the way that playful animal 
managed to fly around in aU directions, and still 
remained attached to the carriage, was most 
mysterious. Our di'ive was dehghtful, takiag us 
by the triumphal arch erected in honor of the visit 
of Maria Theresa, and the golden roof over a bay 
window upon which one of the counts of Tyrol 
foolishly spent thirty thousand ducats in order to 
prove that his purse was not empty. "We entered 
the Cathedral, in the centre of which is the splen- 
did tomb of Maximihan I., consisting of a bronze 
figure of the Emperor in a kneeling posture 
upon a high marble sarcophagus, surrounded by 
twenty-eight immensely tall bronze figures, re- 
presenting distinguished personages, male and 
female, mostly of the house of Austria. The 
whole effect is very imposing, but we looked 
with far greater interest upon the less preten- 
tious monument of Andreas Hofer, who died a 
martyr to his devotion to Tyrol. The monument 
is surmounted by a fine statue of Hofer, dressed 
in his native costume, with his rifle slung on his 
shoulder, and an unfolded banner in one hand. 



116 THE OLD WORLD 

It is not strange that Napoleon should have 
feared the noble, brave, fearless spu'it who could 
write, after being condemned to death by his 
cruel order, " It has been the divine will that I 
should exchange here in Mantua, temporary ex- 
istence for eternal life ; but God be thanked for 
his divine mercy, it appears as easy to me as if I 
were to be led out to something else." 

It is pleasant to see so many of the pretty, pic- 
turesque costumes of the Tyrol stiU retained, 
and the men look very handsome in their em- 
broidered waistcoats, and high-crowned, green 
felt hats, decorated with feathers. The women 
wear black felt hats, with a gold cord and tassel, 
and bodice waists. They all look sunburnt and 
brown fi-om exposiu'e in the fields, where they 
work with the men, yet they have a look of con- 
tentment ; and we have nowhere seen so many 
wayside shrines, showing the devotional cha- 
racter of the people. Some of the figures of 
Christ on the cross are most revolting ; yet these 
simple-minded people look upon them with rev- 
erence and awe, and never pass them without a 
prayer. When we were on the point of leaving 
our pleasant quarters at Innsbruck, our smOing 
landlord gave each of his lady guests, with his 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EIES. 117 

parting bow, a lovely collection of pressed Alpine 
flowers, tastefully arranged, "as a little souve- 
nir," he said, a graceful courtesy which we all 
fully appreciated. 

Our trip to Munich was very pleasant during 
the early part of the day, but it became uncom- 
fortably warm in the afternoon, and when we 
reached Kuffstein, where our passports and lug- 
gage were to be examined, we longed for some- 
thing better in which to rest than the dirty 
apartments at the railway station, which were 
filled with men smoking and drinking beer. We 
thoroughly reaUzed at this place, that we were, 
indeed, in the land of beer, for the foaming 
glasses of this favorite Bavarian beverage greeted 
us on every side. Eight glad were we when we 
reached Munich, and we found ourselves driving 
through the wide streets of a town which looked 
new enough not to be continental. And very 
new it is, in many respects, owing to the taste of 
King Ludwig, whose great desire it was to 
beautify as much as possible, and to imitate in 
his own capital, whatever pleased him in other 
lands. 

Munich lies low on the river Iser, and is not 
picturesque or commanding in position, but is a 



118 THE OLD WOELD 

very pleasant town, and wonderfully ricli in 
works of art. Its public library is one of the 
largest in the world, and wliile in the Glypto- 
thek and Pinacothek are seen most interesting 
statues and pictures by the old masters, there 
are modern painters and sculptors residing here 
whose works are unrivalled. We have found so 
much to enjoy here that we would gladly linger 
a long time ; but beautiful Tyrol has given us an 
irresistible longing for Switzerland, with its glo- 
rious mountains and fertile valleys. So we have 
rushed through the galleries, and looked hastily 
at the four exquisite peasant pictures by Mu- 
rillo ; the one room glowing with Rubens' 
brilHant tints ; the gems of Wouvermans, Teniers, 
aud Vandyke. In the gallery of sculpture there 
are many valuable antiquities. The Barberini 
Faun, so called from the family to which it once 
belonged, is considered one of the most remarka- 
ble of its many wonders. It was discovered in a 
ditch of the Castle of St. Angelo, in Rome, and 
supposed to have been thrown down upon the 
Goths, who attacked the castle in 537. The fig- 
ure is a colossal sleeping Satyr, reclining on a rock, 
and the look of perfect repose and deep slumber 
are most admii-ably expressed. The new Pinaco- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 119 

thek contains many excellent works by modem 
painters, and we were particularly charmed with 
some of Verboeckhoven's landscapes, the animals 
in which seemed ready to walk out of the can- 
yas, they were so Ufe-like. 

In the National Museum, we went through 
long suites of rooms, with elaborate frescoes on 
the walls, representing scenes in the history of 
Bavaria. There is a very rich collection of curi- 
osities here, mostly of German origin, composed 
almost entirely of antique articles of various 
kinds — old silver, china, curious jewelry, quaint 
cabinets and chairs, and many other things long, 
long out of use. In the palaces of the king, wo 
found much to interest us. The old palace which 
Gustavus Adolphus admired so much that he 
wished he could remove it to Stockholm on 
wheels, was finished more than two hundred 
years ago by Maximilian I. It is a curious spe- 
cimen of the style of architecture of that day, and 
incloses four court-yards ; in one of which is a 
handsome bronze fountain, ornamented with 
statues, representing Ceres, Juno, Vulcan, and 
Neptune, the four elements. The fountain was 
designed by the famous Peter Vischer of Nurem- 
burg. We passed through long suites of rooms 



120 THE OLD WORLD 

hung with faded damask and velvet, and family 
portraits, until we reached the luxurious apart- 
ments of Charles VII. One cabinet was himg 
with pictures in enamel, many of which were 
very beautiful. Napoleon once occupied these 
rooms, and in his bed-room are coverings and 
curtains of a bed worked with gold, which cost 
eight hundred thousand florins, and it is said 
forty persons were steadily employed fifteen 
years in embroidering them. In the new palace, 
which was finished only thu-ty years ago, many 
decorations and frescoes are after the style of 
Pompeii, and the floors are of various kinds of 
wood, exquisitely inlaid in patterns, each apart- 
ment diifering from the others. The throne 
room, which is immense, contains twelve statues 
in gilt bronze, ten feet high, of the Princes of the 
House of Bavaria. These statues stand between 
columns of Corinthian marble, and aU the deco- 
rations of the room are extremely rich, white 
and gold being the predominant colors. There 
are two rooms which are devoted to portraits of 
beautiful women who have hved, or stiU live, in 
Munich. They were painted by order of King 
Ludwig, and are thirty-six in number. Some are 
very beautiful, and Lola Montez, the most won- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 121 

derful beauty of them all, once occupied a very 
■prominent place among them, but has been re- 
moved by the present king. How strange her 
career ! Followed by poj)ular applause wherever 
she went, she was at one time at the summit of 
worldly prosperity. Her fascinations over the 
king of Bavaria were so great that he created 
her Baroness of Kosenthal, and Countess of 
Landsfelt — gave her large estates with feudal 
rights over a population of two thousand per- 
sons. A few years later, she was compelled to 
escape in the disguise of a peasant from Munich, 
and in a few years more died an humble penitent 
in New York. How touching these lines from 
her journal : " With what gratitude ought I to 
give thanks to Him who did not forsake me, even 
when walking in utter darkness and death. Oh, 
how long, long was He telling me that I should 
come to Him. I was indeed ' weary and heavy 
laden.' What has the world ever given to me ? 
(and I have known all that the world has to give 
— all. ) Nothing but shadows, leaving a wound 
on the heart, hard to heal — a dark discontent. 
Now I can more calmly look back on the stormy 
passages of my hfe, an eventful life, indeed, and see 
onward and upward, a haven of rest to the soul." 



122 THE OLD WOELD 

We have become somewhat initiated in the mys- 
teries of bronze, at the great foundry which 
sends most remarkable specimens of skill all 
over the world. It was most interesting to trace 
the process from its commencement to the final 
completion, and we were glad to see many ad- 
mirable figures which are one day to be in our 
own land ; among them a beautiful fountain with 
fifteen figures, which will be a delight to the citi- 
zens of Cincinnati, when finished. From the 
foundry we drove to the famous colossal statue 
of the Protectress of Bavaria, which is sixty-one 
feet high, and stands upon a pedestal twenty- 
eight feet high. She has a lion by her side, and 
in her right hand holds a sword for protection. 
Her left, which is raised, holds a chaplet to 
crown Merit. The figure is admirably propor- 
tioned, and it is difiicult, at first, to realize its 
immense size ; but when one ascends it, and finds 
that the head will hold twelve persons, and fur- . 
nish them seats besides, its vastness becomes very 
perceptible. 

The Bavarian Hall of Fame stands on a slope 
a short distance back of the statue, and is a 
Doric portico composed of three sides, in which 
busts of many distinguished Bavarians have 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 123 

already been placed, and there are pedestals for 
many more. 

We looked with muoh interest at the monu- 
ment in St. Michael's Church to the memory of 
Eugene Beauharnois, Duke of Leuchtenburg, 
whose wife was a sister of the King of Bavaria. 
This son of the noble Empress Josephine 
stands in front of the closed door of the tomb, 
with his crown and arms lying at his feet. The 
attitude is simple, and full of dignity ; his left 
hand is pressed upon his heart, and with his 
right he holds a laurel crown. Two genii, with 
sad and disconsolate faces, representing Love 
and Life, stand on one side, while the muse of 
History is seated on the other, inscribing the 
virtues and exploits of the hero. The monument 
is by Thorwalsden, and is very beautiful and ex- 
pressive. 

We have visited some of the studios, and have 
been delighted vdth many of the beautiful pic- 
tures which we found. Millnor's landscapes were 
superb, and it was pleasant to look upon Kaul- 
bach, whose drawings are so marvellous, and to 
receive the cordial greeting which he always 
gives Americans. He was painting a lovely 
group of children for a favored countryman. 



l24 



THE OLD "WORLD 



"We had a delightful drive through the English 
garden, which is laid out with groves and shrub- 
rberies, pretty walks, graceful bridges and temples 
— a most charming spot, A branch of the Iser 
runs through the garden, sometimes a strong 
but gentle streain, and then a torrent deep and 
rapid, foaming and leaping along, and makuig 
one realize that it is indeed the " Iser rolling 
rapidly," of the poet Campbell. 

We made a short visit to the curious cemetery 
which is open to Protestants and Catholics ahke, 
and looked for a few moments into the large 
room Avith glass doors and windows, in which, 
by law, bodies are placed immediately after 
death. It was touching to see the rich and poor 
lying side by side, and the efforts made to d'eco- 
rate them, and give a look of Hfe, when life was 
gone * forever. One beautiful little child was 
lying underneath an arbor of green vines, with a 
profusion of flowers scattered about her, and as 
she lay gracefully on her side, apparently asleep 
after her play, it was difficult to believe that 
those eyes would never open again. A string is 
placed in the hand of each silent sleeper, to 
which is attached a bell, which rings at the 
slightest motion. A wise precaution to prevent 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 125 

premature interment ; and in one or two instances 
of suspended animation, the bell has been 
sounded. In case of an epidemic, when early in- 
terment is deemed necessary, a house of this 
kind must be invaluable ; and it is strange that 
other cities do not consider it desirable to have 
such a safeguard. The grounds of the cemetery 
are prettily laid out, and well kept, and every- 
thing seemed to denote a desire to bring all the 
cheerfulness possible to this last resting-place of 
the loved and lost. 

Zurich, June 28. 
We are at last in Switzerland, having come to 
Zurich by way of Augsburg and Lake Constance. 
The first hundred miles of our way was through 
an exceedingly flat country ; but as we ap- 
proached Lindau it became more hilly, and 
everything assumed a Swiss appearance, percep- 
tible in the houses and costumes of the people, 
as well as in the scenery. At Lindau, a strongly 
fortified town, we took a steamer on Lake Con- 
stance, and bade a final adieu to Bavaria, which 
was represented at the harbor by a monstrous 
stone lion in a sitting posture, with a not very 
amiable expression of countenance. We found 
the scenery on Lake Constance pretty and pic- 



126 THE OLD WOKLD 

turesque, but without wildness or grandeur. 
From Romanslioni, where we took the train, our 
journey was through a well-cultivated country, 
everything indicating a thrifty, prosperous people. 
We drove to the Baur au Lac Hotel, and 
found it charmingly situated. The views of the 
green hills surrounding it, on which villages and 
villas sparkled in the sun, and the more distant 
snow-capped mountains, were very fine. In 
front of the house, a beautiful garden, cool and 
shady, borders on the lake. We felt that after 
the last fatiguing days, we had, indeed, found a 
haven of delicious rest. So we have quietly en- 
joyed the lovely lake, and have only ventured 
out, now and then, to take a peep about us. We 
looked into the heavy and massive, but plain and 
unadorned cathedral, in which the bold and fear- 
less Zuingle denounced the errors of the Church 
of Kome. In the Arsenal we also saw the sword, 
helmet, and coat of mail, in which, when it was 
necessary, he could fight with other weapons 
than his tongue in defence of Protestantism. 
We also saw at the same place the cross-bow 
with which William Tell shot the apple from his 
son's head ; but we looked at it with only a 
small amount of faith. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 127 

Zurich boasts of being the birth-place of many 
famous men, among them, Lavater the physiog- 
nomist, Pestalozzi, the teacher, and the two 
Gesners, one a celebrated naturalist, and the 
other a poet-painter. We have greatly enjoyed 
our little strolls about the curious old town, and 
they would have been still more enjoyable and 
comfortable, had the pavements been com- 
posed of anything but small, sharp-pointed 
stones. But there are few sidewalks, and we 
were obliged to hobble on as we best could. 
Why such stones were selected, we could not 
divine. 

We have not in a long time passed so quiet 
a Sunday, and the pretty English Chapel was 
quite thronged with worshippers. The streets 
seemed deserted as we made our way to it, and 
it was with difficulty that we could find any one 
to direct us. Late in the afternoon we sat at the 
foot of the garden, enjoying the beauty of the 
scene — the lake so blue and sparkling, the shores 
richly wooded, and looking brilliantly green by 
the light of the setting sun. Suddenly, the snowy 
peaks of the Alps became tinged with a rosy 
light, which seemed to throw an illumination 
over the whole, and the effect was gloriously 



128 THE OLD WORLD 

beautiful. We lingered until " 'twas gone, and 
all was gray," feeling as if we tad taken a peep 
into anotlier world than ours. 

Lucerne, June 30. 
A delightful ride of two hours by railroad 
brought us here, passing through a beautiful 
country, and by the margin of Lake Zug. Our 
rooms at the Schweizerhof look out upon this 
loveliest of Swiss lakes, while Mount Pilatus 
rises high and imposing on one side, and the 
Righi, with its rich and grassy slopes, keeps 
watch on the other. We could not rest here 
long without a visit to the famous sculptured 
lion, dedicated to the memory of the officers and 
soldiers of the Swiss guards, about eight hun- 
dred in all, who were killed in defending the 
Tuilleries, and poor Louis XVI., and Marie An- 
toinette, in 1792. It is all the more remarkable 
as a work of art, from the fact that it is cut out 
of the face of a solid sandstone rock. The dying 
lion is represented lying in a grotto, a spear in 
his side, and his paw grasping the fleur de lis of 
France. It is wonderfully touching and imj^res- 
sive, and worthy the great genius of Thorwalsden, 
who designed it. One can scarcely believe, in 
looking at it, that it is twenty-eight feet long, 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 129 

and eighteen feet high, yet such is the fact. 
The surroundings of the moniiment are extremely 
pretty, there being at the base of the rock a 
pool of pure water, creeping vines hanging from 
the top, while the pool is surrounded by maples, 
pines, and other forest trees. 

We had a delightful expedition to Flueleu, at 
the head of Lake Lucerne, and were quite en- 
chanted with the beautiful scenery. The lake is 
shaped somewhat like an irregular star, and as 
we proceeded, new scenes continually burst upon 
us. When we seemed to have reached an impass- 
able barrier, a sudden turn, where the moun- 
tains and rocks came to the water's edge, would 
reveal some new picture of exquisite beauty, and 
wherever we turned, snow-capped mountains 
were visible. We looked with much interest at 
Tell's Chapel, erected on the spot where the gal- 
lant Swiss leaped from Gesler's boat when he 
was conveying him to prison. The Chapel is 
almost hidden by trees, and most romantically 
situated. On Sunday after Ascension-day, mass 
is performed there, a patriotic sermon preached, 
and the lake is gay with richly-decorated boats 
and flying banners. It is said to be eight hun- 
dred feet deep near the chapel. On reaching 
9 



130 THE OLD WOELD 

Fluelen, we found the steamboat remained long 
enough, to admit of our driving to Altorf, the 
scene of Tell's exploit with the apple. So we 
soon found ourselves looking about the curious 
old town, which is in the smallest and poorest 
canton of Switzerland, surrounded by grand 
mountains which towered high, high above us, 
and seemed to pierce the clouds. We found the 
colossal statue in plaster, erected in honor of 
William Tell, occupying the place from which the 
archer aimed at the apple on his son's head. 
About one hundred and fifty paces is the spot 
where the son stood, awaiting in agonizing sus- 
pense the arrow of his father — an arrow which 
brought about such great results. As we returned, 
Lucerne looked beautifully, rising gradually from 
the lake, its picturesque watch-towers, quaint 
old bridges, long walls enclosing the town, and 
Pilatus and Righi glowing in the evening sun. 

"Interlachen ! How peacefully by the margin 
of the swift rushing Aar thou liest on the broad 
lap of those romantic meadows, all overshadowed 
by the wide arms of giant trees ! Only the round 
towers of thine ancient cloister rise above their 
summits ; the round towers themselves but a 
child's playthings under the great church towers 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 131 

of the mountaiBS. Close beside thee are lakes 
which the flowing band of the river ties together. 
Before thee opens the magnificent valley of Lau- 
terbrunnen, where the cloud-hooded Monck and 
pale Virgin stand like St. Francis and his bride 
of snow ; and around thee are fields, and or- 
chards, and hamlets green, from which the 
church-bells answer each other at evening. The 
evening sun was setting when I first beheld thee. 
The sun of life will set ere I forget thee !" 

How constantly has this beautiful description 
of Longfellow occurred to us during the last fort- 
night ! At Lucerne we joined a party of dear 
friends, and our journey here by carriages was 
most charming. The first part of the way we 
passed by the margin of one of the arms of Lake 
Lucerne — then came Alpnach Lake, a little gem 
of beauty — then Lake Lungern, and Lake Brienz, 
surrounded by lofty wooded mountains and rocks. 
Over the Brunig Pass, the scenery was very 
grand. Bald peaks and snow-clad pyramids 
formed a background — cascades leaped hundreds 
of feet from precipices, while the fertile valley of 
Meiringen, far, far below us, with the houses 
looking like mere dots in the distance, presented 
a picture of beauty not easily surpassed. From 



132 THE OLD WOKLD 

one carriage to the other we continually inter- 
changed expressions of delight, and the words of 
the Psalmist constantly occurred to me : " 3Ii) 
cup runneth over." When we reached Interlacheu 
we found ourselves quite exhausted, and were 
glad to rest at the Hotel Belvidere, which we 
have found all we can desire. 

Directly before us lies the beautiful and 
majestic Jungfrau, more than twelve thousand 
feet high, covered with snow, while all about 
are other lofty mountains, their fresh green 
verdure, and rocky palisades contrasting most 
beautifully with the pure white garment of the 
lovely "young woman." Like a very modest 
damsel, she keeps her veil of mist over her face 
much of the time, so that when she chooses to 
lift it her beauty is all the more startling. When 
she stands forth ghttering in the sunlight she 
seems almost unearthly in her dazzling bright- 
ness. Our stay at Interlachen has been diversified 
by various excursions, while the magnificent 
scenery by which it is surrounded, makes it a 
most desirable resting-place when we are dis- 
posed for quiet. The Fourth of July was, indeed, 
a day of rest and quiet, but we were somewhat 
startled in the evening to hear an explosion of 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 133 

fire-crackers on the lawn in front of the house. 
Some enthusiastic American had been unable to 
restrain his "gunpowder patriotism," and had 
thus given vent to his enthusiasm under the 
shadow of the Jungfrau. 

The shops here are more tempting than we 
have found them at any other place in Switzer- 
land. The display of wood-carvings is quite 
wonderful, and the onyx, amethyst, and crystal 
ornaments, really bewildering. One longs for a 
full purse, under such temptations as are set 
before us. We drove, one day, past the castle of 
TJnspunnen, the reputed residence of Lord 
Byron's Manfred, through the beautiful valley of 
Lauterbrunnen, which derives its name, nothing 
hut fountains, from the number of streamlets 
which precipitate themselves from the cliffs into 
the valley below. One of the highest waterfalls 
in Europe, the Staubbach, or dust stream, comes 
dancing down a height of more than eight 
hundred feet, and seems indeed " a heaven-born 
waterfall," for as one looks up at it, it appears to 
leap from the sky. The body of water is never 
very great, and by the time it reaches the bottom 
of the cliff it becomes spray, and is scattered by 
the breeze. When the sun falls full upon it, 



134 THE OLD WOKLD 

"It veils the rock 
In rainbow hues," 

and the effect is very beautiful. At Lauterbrun- 
nen we took horses, and ascended the Murren by 
a bridle path, and the views the greater part of 
the way were most glorious — almost fearfully 
grand, at times. We were surrounded by an 
amphitheatre of snow-clad mountains and 
glaciers, and rugged precipices. The Eiger, the 
Monck, the Jungfrau, the Wetterhom, and other 
mountain peaks, all being in view — with eight or 
ten glaciers. During our ascent, we heard the 
roar, like thunder, of distant avalanches. 

" All in a moment, crash on crash. 

From precipice, to precipice, 
An avalanche's ruins dash 

Down to the nethermost abyss. 
Invisible ; the ear alone 

Pui-sues the uproar till it dies ; 
Echo to echo, groan for groan 

From deep to deep replies." 

The noise is all the more startling from the 
intense silence which generally prevails in these 
high mountain regions, and one could not but 
think of the desolation and ruin such vast 
bodies of snow and ice might occasion should 
there be houses or villages in its course. At 
Murren we looked with sad interest at the spot 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 135 

near us on the mountain, where the lovely young 
English bride was struck by lightning a few years 
ago. A cross to her memory has been erected 
there since, and a memorial chapel in her English 
home, where her sad fate was so deeply and 
lovingly lamented. The descent of the moun- 
tain seemed so much more formidable than the 
going up, that we abandoned our horses and 
went scampering down on foot — a feat from 
which some of us did not soon recover, not being 
accustomed to such mountaineer exploits. The 
next day we went to Grindelwald, which is 
celebrated for the grand mountains surrounding 
it, and the two glaciers which descend directly 
into the valley, in the midst of vegetation. These 
glaciers are bordered by fir trees, which form a 
beautiful contrast to the frozen peaks of ice so 
near them. We entered a cavern cut into the 
glacier through the solid ice for many feet, and 
admired the exquisite blue of the cold material 
very much, but we found the atmosphere too 
chilly to remain long. Had we knovni that it 
was, even then, preparing to fall in, as it did, not 
long after, we should probably have retreated 
still more precipitately. At Grindelwald several 
of our party ascended the Eaulhorn, from which 



136 THE OLD WORLD 

some of the finest views in Switzerland are 
obtained, provided the weatlier is clear, which it 
seldom is. From the hasty journal of one of their 
number, I make a few extracts : 

" All things being ready, we started off on our 
well-trained horses, and with our experienced and 
faithful guides, to make the ascent. It was a plea- 
sant afternoon, and for two hours or more oui' path 
was through meadows and pastures, filled with 
an almost infinite variety of flowers of every hue 
and color. Nothing could be more beautiful. It 
was like a faii-y-land, and kept us in a constant 
state of excitement. As we ascended higher and 
higher, the flowers began to disappear, and it was 
not long before we were in a region of perfect 
desolation— nothing but rocks and snow. We 
began to make free use of our shawls and over- 
coats, and yet we could not protect ourselves 
from the piercing cold. Our horses had to pick 
their way through the deep drifts of snow, as 
they could, and the dear, good creatures did 
behave splendidly. They were as careful as it 
was possible for a human being to be. Indeed, 
at times, when we were iu desj)air, they seemed 
to feel their responsibility, and by dint of extra- 
ordinary efforts carried us safely through. At 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 137 

length, after some five or six hours of hard 
chmbing, we reached the summit of the moun- 
tain, nearly nine thousand feet high ! 

" In all the valleys the sunhght had disappeared ; 
but where we were, the sunshine continued for 
nearly an hour longer. Though bitterly cold, we 
stood, and gazed, and wondered, at the glorious 
views which presented themselves in every direc- 
tion. We spent the night in a kind of house which 
has been erected there. I cannot say we had many 
luxuries, but we managed to get through the 
night comfortably. I found myself too high up 
in the world to sleep, and so amused myself by 
looking out of the window to see what the 
prospect was. In due time, the moon arose, and 
the mists having disappeared, there was a fine 
view of the mountains. At half-past three o'clock 
we were called to see the sun rise. And what a 
sight ! Not a speck of cloud or mist rested on 
the mountains. By slow degrees the sun came 
up, and as its rays Hghted up one peak after 
another, the beauty and splendor of the scene 
became indescribable. There we stood and gazed, 
in silent wonder, upon this marvellous display of 
the great Creator's power and glory. The whole 
Oberland range, as well as innumerable other 



138 THE OLD WORLD 

peaks, were in full view. It was a sight for a 
life time. I could only exclaim, 'Glory, Glory 
Hallelujah.' Nobody who has not experienced 
it, can have the least idea of the feelings which 
such a sight awakens. I don't think any of us 
will ever forget that visit. I am sure I shall not. 
It seemed as though I was never so near God 
before. 

" After breakfast we commenced our descent. 
Our guides led the horses, and we raced and 
chased each other over the snow at a great rate ; 
it was nearly as hard as the rocks themselves. 
In a few hours we were down agaia among the 
flowers and green grass, and were glad enough to 
get off all our extra clothing, for we found it very 
warm. The whole distance to the top of the 
Great Scheideck we had a full view of the moun- 
tains. There we took the usual route to the 
Keichenbach Falls, opposite Meiringen, feeling 
that we had seen what we never had conceived 
of, in the way of the awful grandeur and glory of 
mountain scenery. In some of the very narrow 
passes we found men with long wooden horns, 
called Alpine horns. These they would blow 
with all their might. The sound produced 
was loud and rather pleasant, but the echoes 



SEEN WITH YOUNa EYES. 139 

were truly beautiful. At first they were full and 
near, but by degrees they became fainter and 
fainter, and all the time receded, until they died 
away and were finally lost in the far-off distance. 
It seemed like something unearthly, and made 
one think of the notes of the celestial world. I 
was always glad to hear the sound of the Alpine 
horn. But sometimes, instead of a horn, these 
men would have a small cannon which they 
would fire off, making a most fearful and deaf- 
ening roar. Immediately it seemed as though 
the mountains on both sides were fiUed with 
cannons, great and small, all blazing away at 
each other. From top to bottom, there was 
nothing but bang, whang, and roar ! The effect 
of it all was, the ladies screeched, the dogs 
barked, the gentlemen laughed, the mules stuck 
up their ears, and the men politely asked for 
some money to pay them for their trouble. The 
people here are just like the people everywhere 
else ; whatever they do, they do for money, and 
the traveller had better always have his pocket 
full of cliange. When making our way out of 
one of these passes we became very much in- 
terested in the conduct of a Httle dog. He had 
been with us since we left Grindelwald, and 



140 THE OLD WOKLD 

every one had become very much attached to 
him ; for he was a beautiful creature and as 
bright and lively as he could be. 

" Our party was a large one, and strung along 
Indian file for a long distance. All of a sudden 
the dog became very nervous and went rushing 
about at a great rate. At one time, he dashed 
ahead, and then back he would come as hard 
as he could run. He seemed fearfully anxious, 
as though some great mischief were about to 
happen. We went on wondering what it all 
could mean, but soon the mystery was solved. 
We were approaching a place where they were 
accustomed to fire one of these cannons. The 
dog had been there before, and the noise of the 
cannon had scared him nearly out of his wits. 
True, he was a great deal more scared than hurt ; 
yet like the rest of the world, he thought he was 
hurt, and that was enough. He remembered all 
about it and was exceedingly fidgety. But he 
behaved beautifully. Instead of running away, 
as we should have done, he didn't leave us for a 
moment. When we came to the cannon, for 
some reason it wasn't fired off; but the dog 
thought it would be, and he was unceasing in 
his efforts to hurry us past the place. He ran 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 141 

ahead, gave short, sharp barks, nipped the 
horse's heels, flew about the guides, and made a 
fuss generally. As soon as those in front were 
fairly by, he took the next, and so on to the last. 
I happened to be in the rear, and such an ex- 
citement as he was in, I never saw before. He 
did everything in his power to hasten me on. 
After some of his prodigious efforts, he would 
look me full in the face, as much as to say 
'Old man, why don't you hurry? Don't you 
know there will soon be a great noise, and you 
will be hiu't ? Do come on.' Well, I did go on, 
and was soon past the cannon, and as the dog 
thought, out of all danger. Immediately, he 
became calm and trotted along in his usual way. 
I could not but think that this little dog had set 
us a noble example, and taught us a most useful 
lesson. If we should be as devoted to our 
friends, and every good work, as he was to us, 
how much good we should do !" 

Geneva, July 20. 
It dawned upon us one day that we could not 
remain in lovely Interlacken forever, so we took 
our last look at the peerless Jungfrau and went 
to Berne by way of beautiful Lake Thun, which 
is wild and picturesque part of the way, with 



142 THE OLD WORLD 

views of distant snow-clad mountains, and near 
Thun, adorned with pretty -villas and cheerful 
gardens. The ruins of an old castle with ivy 
covered walls, added not a little to the charm of 
the landscape. 

We found Berne a most curious, quaint old 
place, very unlike anything else we have seen, 
and very pleasantly situated on the River Aar, 
which surrounds it on three sides. Most of the 
houses project over the sidewalks, forming an 
arcade in which are shops of various kinds. 
Everywhere one sees bears, either in wood, or 
stone, or iron, to commemorate the exploit of 
the founder of the town, who kille<3 a huge bear 
which attacked him when he had commenced 
erecting the walls. Since then, the bear has 
been painted on their flags and stamped on their 
coins, and the town itself has been called Berne, 
which in the old German, means bear. Live 
bears are kept at the public expense in large pits 
surrounded by strong iron railings, and here 
crowds assemble to give them bread and fruit, 
and watch their gambols. 

We were very much amused with two young 
bears which had all the antics of two playful 
kittens, without their grace ; tumbling about 



SEICN \\1TR lOUXG EYES. 1-13 

standing erect, with their huge jjaws extended — 
climbing poles and falling on their backs with a 
force which seemed sufficient to crush them. 
Then rising and rushing into each other's arms 
again, and again tumbling over at full length. 
The whole scene was all the more ludicrous be- 
cause the creatures had all the air of showing off 
for the pleasure of the spectators. The bridge 
over which we passed to the bears' den is a 
splendid structure of solid stone, with three 
immense arches. As we stood upon it, we dis- 
covered that one of the streets of the town was 
beneath us, and the bridge much higher than the 
tops of the houses. 

We found much to interest us in the museum, 
which contains choice specimens of the natural 
productions of Switzerland in the way of birds, 
rare minerals, and stuffed animals. The hero 
among the latter, is the famous St. Gothard dog 
Barry, which is said to have saved the lives of 
forty human beings, by his sagacity and strength. 
He looked very life-like, standing with bottle and 
collar about his neck, as if about to start on his 
mission of mercy, and we felt that he deserved 
all the fame he has received. The cathedral at 
Berne was finished more than four hundred 



144 THE OLD WOELD 

years ago, and is a fine Gothic building, witli a 
curious carving over the principal door, repre- 
senting the Last Judgment, with figures of the 
wise and foolish virgins on each siJe. The choir 
contains some curious stained-glass windows, in 
some of which are caricatures of the Romish 
priesthood. There are also richly carved stalls, 
heraldic emblems, and a monument to the 
founder of Berne, Berthold Von Zahringen. 
There are numerous fountains in Berne adorned 
with statues, and we found one in our rambles 
which was enough to strike terror in any juvenile 
heart. A huge Ogre is represented devouring a 
child, while several others are waiting their doom, 
stuck in his pocket and girdle. A troop of 
armed bears stands beneath, so that the escape 
of the little innocents is impossible. Altogether, 
the effect was decidedly impressive, and we won- 
dered if the Bernese mammas were in the habit 
of teaching valuable lessons to their children by 
means of this monster. 

Near the Ogre fountain stands the clock tower, 
where at three minutes before every hour a 
wooden cock croAvs twice and flaps his wings. A 
minute later a procession of bears walks around 
the seated figure of an old man with a beard, who 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 145 

turns an hour glass, and counts the hours by 
raising his sceptre and opening his mouth. In 
the mean time, a grotesque figure strikes the 
hour on a bell with a hammer, the bear at the 
right of the figure bows his head, and the cock 
finishes the performance with a third crow. All 
the figiu'es are mere puppets, and the whole 
thing is very absurd, although displaying much 
skilL "We visited mth great interest the beau- 
tiful Federal Council Hall, a large building in 
palatial style, where the assembly hold their 
sessions. We were shown the different chambers 
and committee rooms, and were much dehghted 
with the elegant simplicity prevailing everywhere. 
The debates are in the German, French and 
Italian languages, and often the discussions are 
quite as animated if not so stormy, as in our own 
House of Representatives. From the balcony in 
the rear of the building, we had a lovely view of 
Berne and its surroundings, the river Aar which 
flows at the bottom of a deep gully below, and 
the Bernese Alps in the distance. 

After a night's rest in Berne, we made an early 
morning investigation of the curious booths 
which had sprung up in the night, in the princi- 
pal street — it being market day — and we were 
10 



146 THE OLD WOELD 

quite amused with the collection of articles, 
mostly for household purposes, thus brought 
together. The women in their white linen 
sleeves, embroidered bodices, silver chains and 
ornaments, looked very picturesque. An hour's 
ride in the cars brought us in sight of the ancient 
watch-towers, battlements and winding-walls of 
Fi'eyburg, which is romantically situated on 
the river Saarine. The remarkable suspension 
bridges, one of them nearly thi-ee hundred feet 
above the rocky ravine below — the other at nearly 
the same height, and both almost a thousand 
feet in length, are objects of great beauty. They 
look so hght, graceful and fragile, that at first it 
seems as if a breeze might blow them over ; but 
when one looks at the wires, and chains, and the 
rocks to which they are fastened, their wonderful 
strength becomes manifest. The views up and 
down the river, of the vaUey and the town itself, 
were beautiful as we walked over the bridges, 
which, hanging as they do in the air, trembled 
with the lightest weight. We remained in Frey- 
burg a few hours in order to hear one of the 
finest organs in Europe, which at certain times 
in the day an organist is allowed to play upon 
for the gratification of travellers. Its tones are 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 147 

rich and full, and at times tlie music seemed 
almost unearthly in its deHcious sweetness. 
"VMien at last the imitation of a storm commenced, 
and the wind howled and the thunder roUed, 
seeming to shake the old church, which had stood 
for centuries, to its very foundations, we were all 
filled with silent awe, and sat breathless with 
amazement and wonder. The hour passed in 
that quaint old church of St. Nicholas, -with its 
curious carved stalls, stone floors and most 
wonderful organ, will not soon be forgotten. 
"With the notes still ringing in our ears, we left 
for Geneva, and just before reaching Lausanne, 
obtained our first ghmpse of "clear, placid 
Leman" with its surrounding mountains, and 
pretty villages on the bank of the lake. These 
lovely views greeted us at intervals for many 
miles, and at length we found ourselves at a 
pleasant hotel close by the exquisitely blue 
waters of the Ehone at Geneva, our windows 
looking out upon Mount Blanc, the " monarch of 
mountams," in the distance. 

We have found this beautifully situated town 
most attractive, and the drives in the neighbor- 
hood very pleasant. There are so many narrow 
shady lanes, hedges, grand old trees, and villas 



148 THE OLD WOELD 

looking like English country houses, that wo 
seemed almost to have been taken across the 
Channel again. We drove to Ferney, five miles 
from Geneva, vy^hich was for twenty years the 
residence of Voltaire, His chateau is beautifully 
situated, in full view of the lake and of Mont 
Blanc ; and there is a long, lovely walk in the 
garden, formed by vines and trees growing over 
arches, so thickly covered, that the prospect can 
be seen only through gaps cut at regular inter- 
vals in the form of windows. In this secluded, 
and yet beautiful spot, Voltaire used to walk up 
and down, and dictate to his secretary. Two 
rooms in the chateau are left by the present 
proprietor as they were originally. They contain 
pictures, a couch, and a curious monument of 
earthenware, looking very much like a German 
stove, is placed on one side of the vestibule. Thg 
monument was designed to hold the heart of 
Voltaire, and bears this inscription : " Mes 
manes sont consoles puisque mon coeur est au 
milieu de vous." At the entrance to the grounds 
there is a small dilapidated stone church with 
the original inscription, " Deo erexit Voltaii'e." 
The building looks now very much as if it were 
used as a place of deposit for hay and stubble. 



SEEN WITH TOUNa EYES. 149 

Ferney improved very much during Voltaire's 
residence there. He collected industrious colo- 
nists, introduced useful manufactures, and was 
quite the "patriarch" of the town. He drove 
out every day in a gUt coach drawn by four 
horses, and was always addressed by the people 
as "Monseigneui-." It has been said of him by a 
French author that " there is not, in the hterature 
of any country, either in verse or in prose, an 
author who has written on so manj- opposite 
kinds of subjects, and has so constantly displayed 
a superiority in them all." How unfortunate 
that his influence was not always for the best ! 
Voltaire used to say, in reference to this smallest 
canton in Switzerland, " When I shake my wig, I 
powder all the repubhc ;" yet the whole world has 
felt the power of Geneva. From John Calvin 
the reformer, who hiu'led defiance at the Church 
of Rome, and denounced everything iu the way 
of extravagance and dissipation, emanated the 
doctrines of our own Pilgrim Fathers. He may 
have been rigorous and severe, but he has made 
the whole world think. During his administra- 
tion, John Knox was exiled from Great Britain, 
while "Bloody Mary" was on the throne, and 
resided in Geneva some years. "What consulta- 



150 THE OLD WORLD 

tions these most remarkable men must have held 
together, and how little they suspected that 
remote posterity would feel their power ! 

The public library, founded by Calvin, contaias 
over forty thousand volumes, and many valuable 
manuscripts and letters — among them a letter 
addressed by Calvin to Lady Jane Grey, while 
she was a prisoner in the Tower of London. 
There are forty-four volumes of his manuscript 
sermons, and twelve volumes of letters addressed 
to him. There are letters also of Jean Jaques 
Rousseau, which are quite different in their 
character. The situation of Geneva, at the 
southern extremity of Lake Geneva, and on both 
banks of the Rhone, is very beautiful ; while the 
taU, handsome houses, of modern date, give a 
look of enterprise and thrift to the town. It is 
stni divided into an upper and lower town, and 
the rank and condition of the inhabitants are 
perpetuated in these two divisions ; the aristo- 
cracy residing in the upper town and occupying 
handsome mansions, while workmen and poorer 
shopkeepers remain in the lower town. It is 
rather amusing, however, that the industrial 
classes have the burgher aristocracy very much 
in their power, for in case of feuds, which some- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 151 

times occur, they bring their exalted neighbors 
to reason, by cutting off their supply of water — 
the hydrauHc machine, which furnishes water to 
the upper town, being in their quarter. As there 
are over three thousand persons employed in the 
manufacture of watches alone, while other 
articles of ornamental jewelry require many niore, 
the number of workmen is, of course, very largo. 
It was quite a study to look upon the various 
and beautiful designs of the ornaments, and see 
the artistic skill displayed in their arrangement. 

We never tire of walking upon the handsome 
long bridges which connect the two j)arts of the 
town, with the pretty Rousseau Island in the 
centre. The swans wliich swim gracefully about 
the island, are an attractive feature of the scene, 
while the intensely blue color of the waters of 
the swift rushing Rhone, is a constant theme of 
wonder and admiration. It is curious to see the 
hosts of washerwomen who occupy boats fastened 
to the bank of the river. These boats are about 
a hundred feet long, and extend for nearly a 
mile. They are generally filled with women, who 
stand side by side, rubbing the clothes with their 
strong arms, and keeping up a chatter which is 
quite deafening. 



152 THE OLD WORLD 

We made an excursion of a few days to 
Chamouny, from Geneva, and the drive there of 
ten hours was very delightful. We passed 
through several pleasant little towns, and the 
whole distance is diversified with the most 
interesting sights. Sometimes we were on the 
borders of the plunging Arve, beneath grand 
Alpine precipices— then there were fiightful 
chasms, and beautiful waterfalls. One of these, 
called the Arpenaz, reminded us of the Staubbach, 
and is one of the highest waterfalls in Savoy. 
The stream is so small that it is broken into 
spray long before it reaches its first descent, yet 
it is extremely graceful, and after being nearly 
disjDersed, it again collects, rushes across the road 
beneath a bridge, and flows into the Arve. The 
effect of the lost waterfall again assuming form, is 
very curious and beautiful. The rock of browu 
limestone from which it falls is very remarkable, 
its stratification forming a vast curve, which is 
very perceptible as the face of the rock is un- 
covered. It looks like an amphitheatre of mason 
work. 

The valley becomes wider, after leaving the 
fall of Arpenaz, and some rich and fertile fields 
are seen at the base of lofty peaks, above the 




'jM 



'ill 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 153 

village of St. Martin. We drove into a bustling 
inn-yard there, but could not rest until we had 
looked for the magnificent view of Mont Blanc 
from the graceful one-arched bridge over the 
Arve. The mountain, although twelve miles 
distant in a straight line, seems very near, the 
intervening space being annihilated by its vast 
dimensions. So we ivere told, for alas ! for us, a 
sudden shower came on, and no mountain was 
visible to our longing eyes. So we consoled 
ourselves as we best could, with some of the 
delicious sponge cake and d'Asti wiue, for which 
the inn is deservedly famous. Fortunately the 
storm was of short duration, and the rest of the 
way to the beautiful valley of Chamouny, we had 
views that were grand beyond all description, of 
the loftiest mountain in Europe, with its attendant 
throng of ridges of aiguilles, and glaciers filling 
the intervals. As this is a route much frequented 
by strangers, we found ourselves at all times and 
places beset by beggars, who made a specula- 
tion of their deformities, or insisted on selling 
mineral specimens, or dealt in echoes by firing 
a small cannon wherever its reverberations could 
be heard several times. It is not always agreea- 
ble to have one's view of a charming prospect 



154 THE OLD WORLD 

intercepted by a goitre, and we considered these 
poor wretches a great nuisance. Late in the 
afternoon, we found ourselves beneath the shadow 
of Mont Blanc, and a glorious sunset illuminat- 
ing the whole range, left us nothing to desire. 

The next morniag we walked upon the " Mer 
de Grlace," which fully realized the beautiful de- 
scription of Coleridge, and seemed, indeed, like 

' ' torrents that heard a mighty voice 
And stopped at once, amid their maddest plunge." 

The beautiful blue color of the ice, and its great 
purity, can only be seen by looking down into 
the crevices, which are so frightfully deep that 
one cannot but shudder at the thought of a mis- 
step in climbing over their icy billows. 

It is said that an Alpine hunter, some years 
ago, in passing over the Mer de Glace, lost his 
hold and sHpped iuto one of these fearful crevices. 
By catching himself in his SAvift descent against 
the points of rocks and projecting ice, his fall was 
so broken that he reached the bottom alive. 
But what a prison was he in ! On either hand, 
the icy walls rose up to heaven, above which he 
saw only a strip of blue sky. A little stream of 
water at his feet, formed by the slowly melting 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 155 

glacier, suggested to him the idea that in follow- 
iBg it, he might find some outlet. He picked 
his way, in terror, down, down the mountain 
side, till his course was stopped by an immense 
cliff that rose up before him, while the river 
rolled darkly below. There was no time for 
delay. Death was before him in either case, and 
pausing only an instant, he jDlunged into the 
stream. One minute of breathless suspense — a 
sense of darkness, coldness, and swift ghding 
motion, and then a light began to glimmer on 
the waters. The next instant he was amid 
the green fields, and the flowers, and the sum- 
mer sunshine of the Vale of Chamoimy. As we 
looked at the source of the Aiweiron, rushing 
from beneath a lofty arch of ice at the foot of 
this glacier, we could not but think of this fortu- 
nate escape — so different from the fate of most 
Alpine climbers who have the misfortune to 
make a false step in shppery places. 

The scenery where the Arveiron begins to 
"rave ceaselessly" is very grand. The deep 
blackness of the vault of ice contrasted with the 
beautiful blue where the light is transmitted 
through the ice, is very strikmg. Enormous 
rocks are piled up which have been brought 



156 THE OLD WOELD 

down by the glacier from the mountains above, 
and are deposited in the bed of the river. Some- 
times it is very dangerous to ventiu-e too near, 
lest one should be crushed by the falling stones. 
Yet every year there are accidents residting 
from careless exposure of life, and a too eager 
desire to penetrate forbidden places. The fool- 
hardiness seems all the more strange, when there 
is so much to be safely seen, which will give one 
memories that wiU be a life-long dehght. 

Vevay, July 31. 

We have spent nearly a fortnight in this 
picturesque spot, with its swelling hills and vine- 
clad slopes in the backgi'ound, and beautiful 
Lake Leman with its snow-crowned mountains 
lying before us. The Grand Hotel, so thoroughly 
comfortable and elegant, has been indeed a 
" haven of rest " to us, and the quiet days passed 
here, looking out upon most beautiful, and at 
the same time most sublime scenes, cannot soon 
be forgotten. 

Our enjoyment of the " holy quiet of Nature " 
has been perfect, and day after day have we sat 
by the lake shore, drinking in the exquisite beauty 
of the scene. We were shocked and saddened 



SEIEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 157 

one day, liowever, when we saw a sail-boat 
capsize just before us, in which was a young 
Greek gentleman, who had won all hearts by his 
kindly manners, and who had just parted with 
his friends, in gay spirits, for a short sail upon 
the lake. Before help could be obtained, he 
sank, and we were forcibly reminded that " in 
the midst of life, we are in death." It seemed 
the work of seconds only, and the groups gath- 
ered upon the lawn, grew silent and sad, and 
only spoke in whispers, where so short a time be- 
fore, aU was gayety and merriment. Our hearts 
ached for the mother in her far away Greek 
home, who thus lost her only child, and whose 
husband some years before had been drowned in 
the Adriatic. 

One pleasant day we took the steamer to Ville- 
neuve, at the head of the lake, and on our return 
stopped at the renowned castle of ChiUon, which 
stands firmly upon an isolated rock within a 
stone's throw of the shore, and yet is surrounded 
by deep water. It is approached by a wooden 
bridge, which is firm now, but was formerly a 
drawbridge, thus making the castle inaccessible. 
Its gray walls have stood firmly more than six 
hundred years, and during that time, what scenes 



158 THE OLD WORLD 

have been transacted within these walls! Its 
crypts once served as a place of confinement for 
persecuted Christians, and afterwards for pris- 
oners of state. On a block of marble in one of 
the dungeons, tradition says two thousand Jews 
were beheaded, partly on account of their religion, 
and that the nobles might secure their gold. 
Near this place is a deep arch in the wall which 
once contained an image of the Virgin, before 
which the condemned were allowed to pray before 
they were hung upon a huge beam near by. Then 
there was the Ghambre des Oubliettes, where in 
lawless times, prisoners of state were dragged 
without trial, and made to kneel upon a trap 
door, before the image which Cathohcs so much 
revere and love. While thus asking for mercy, 
the trap door fell at a given signal, and the poor 
wretch was dashed in pieces, far, far below. One 
could not but shrink and shudder in looking 
into the fearful abyss. But the place of deepest 
interest was the dungeon in which the Swiss 
patriot Bonnivard was kept for six years chained 
to one of the low pillars which support the roof — 
one of the " seven columns massy and gray " of 
which Lord Byron speaks, and in which he has 
inscribed his name in large letters. Several of the 



SEEN WITS YOUNG EYES. 159 

columns have iron rings in them, and near tho 
one to which Bonnivard was fastened, and where 
the length of the chain only allowed him to walk 

a few feet, 

"'twas trod 
Until his very steps have left a trace 
Worn, as if the cold pavement were a sod." 

The dungeon is on a level with the lake, and 
the rippling of the water is distinctly heard, 
while through the narrow loop-holes which ad- 
mitted the hght, we could see 

' ' the small green islo 
Which in his very face did smile," 

with its three tall trees. After the Genevese 
were released from the Savoyard yoke, the castle 
was besieged by seven thousand Bernese, and the 
prison doors opened. The words "Bonnivard, 
thou art free," must have sounded like music in 
ears so long unaccustomed to any voice but that 
of his jailor. Those six years had made Geneva 
protestant and independent, and Bonnivard was 
rewarded for his years of misery and suffering, in 
the affection and trust bestowed upon him during 
the rest of his hfe. In sixteen hundred and 
forty-three, a little more than one hundi-ed years 
after this event, there was inscribed over the 
governor's entrance, the words, "May God bless 



160 THE OLD WORLD 

all who come in and go out." A pious wish, which 
a few centuries before would hardly have been 
allowed. But as the castle is now used only as a 
magazine for military stores, its scenes of cruelty 
are over. 

The state chambers of the Duke and Duchess 
of Savoy were shown us, and were very curious 
specimens of the taste of those times. The 
wooden ceilings are very much carved, and there 
are some attempts at ornament upon the walls 
and windows. A very large audience-chamber, 
with an immense fireplace, has the various coats 
of arms of different Swiss cantons painted upon 
the wall ; each governor, while the Bernese had 
control, having added his own arms, name and 
inscription. It was pleasant to see that all had 
not been desolation and misery within these 
walls, and as we approached the bridge to leave, 
we were most happy to accept the invitation of 
an old soldier into his tidy apartment which he 
seemed proud to show us, while he enlarged upon 
his comfort as custodian there. Chillon, with its 
round towers, massive walls, moat and draw- 
bridge, and charming situation, is a most pic- 
turesque and beautiful specimen of one of the 
castles of feudal times. As we walked slowly 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 161 

away, we turned again and again to gaze upon a 
scene so full of beauty and interest. 

In the churcli of St. Martin's at Vevay, which is 
beautifully situated in the midst of trees and 
vineyards, the remains of the regicides Ludlow 
and Broughton are buried. The latter read the 
sentence of death to Charles I., and both died iu 
exile. As we looked at the lovely j)rospect from 
the eminence on which the church stands, our 
thoughts wandered across the ocean to the New 
England town where we had so often stood by 
the graves of Whalley and Goffe, who were also 
exiled at the same time and endured such priva- 
tions in our own land. We could not but feel 
that they were more fortunate who sought a 
home by the borders of Lake Leman. 

Basle, August 3. 

We are now on the brink of the Khine, which 
rushes past our hotel with great force and power, 
and is here a magnificent stream. We were 
welcomed to our " Hotel des Trois Kois " by the 
gilded effigies which decorate the front, and have 
found Basle a clean, thriving tow:*, full of haitd- 
some residences and pleasant streets. The 
Cathedral is a curious edifice placed in a com- 
manding situation, and painted red. It is deco- 
11 



162 THE OLD WOELD 

rated with quaint carvings and statues — among 
ihem St. George and the Dragon are very pro- 
minent. On one side of the church are extensive 
and picturesque cloisters, which are a succession 
of halls and open spaces, and still serve for burial 
places, as they have done for centuries. Many 
reformers are buried here, and as the cloisters 
extend to the verge of the hill overlooking the 
river, it is supposed to have been the favorite 
resort of Erasmus, who died here in fifteen hun- 
dred and thirty-six, and whose tombstone is in 
the cathedral Basle has acquired a high repu- 
tation in the religious, literary and artistic world; 
for while it has been regarded as the strong- 
hold of Methodism in Switzerland, its University 
is very flourishing, and the collection of j)aintings 
by Holbein in the Museum are evidences of the 
power of the great master who made this town 
his home. We were much interested in our visit 
to the Mission House, the object of which is to 
educate missionaries for the promulgation of the 
Gospel among the heathen. Every facility is 
given to the student to acquire the desired know- 
ledge, and we found the Museum full of curiosities 
which had been sent from various lands by those 
who had been educated there, and were now 



SEEN WITH YOONG EYES. 163 

laboring for their Master in the missionary field. 
Just forty years ago, the society of Basle pro- 
jected their mission to Africa, and sent four 
missionaries to Akropong. Now, that commimity, 
including converted natives, consists of more 
than ten thousand members. The childi-en of 
missionaries are kindly cared for, and educated 
by the society at Basle, and we saw more than 
one hundred and fifty of these little creatures play- 
ing about the grounds of the institution, looking 
well and happy. It seemed strange enough to 
find upon the wall at the head of one httle bed, 
the photographs of faces weU known to us, and 
to learn that the little son of an American mis- 
sionary to Africa was enjoying the benefits of 
this pleasant home, his father having been sent 
under the auspices of the Basle society. 

The laws formerly were very strict with refer- 
ence to Sunday, but they have been much 
modified. AU are not compelled to dress in 
black to go to church, as was once the law, and 
every variety of costume is seen. The enormous 
bow of black ribbon which the peasant women 
wear on the top of their heads looks very strange, 
but is not ungraceful, although, as a means of pro- 
tf ction to the face, it amounts to very little. 



164 THE OLD WOKLD 

Strasburg. 

The beautiful open-work spire of the noble 
cathedral announced our approach to this town 
long before we could see anything else, and it 
seemed to penetrate the very clouds. A nearer 
view did not dispel the illusion, we found, and 
when we remembered that the spire, so delicate 
and elaborate in its workmanship, was finished 
more than fifty years before America was dis- 
covered, we could not but wonder at the skill 
which had made the light, airy, graceful structure 
so durable. The interior too, with its rich sculp- 
tures and gorgeous stained glass, is very beauti- 
ful, the circular window being forty-eight feet 
across, and exquisite in coloring. The famous 
clock, which is a marvel of skill, and was invented 
three hundred years ago, attracts strangers 
always, and we were fortunate in being in the 
cathedral at the hour of twelve, when the images 
and puppets were set in motion, and the cock 
gave its triumphant crow. Besides this, the 
clock calculates eclipses, teaches the sun and 
moon theu' courses, and does many other things, 
equally wise and learned. 

From the cathedral, we drove to the church of 
St. Thomas, which contains the monument to 




STRASBURG CLOCK. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 165 

Marshal Saxe, erected to his memory by Louis 
XV. The figure of the hero himself, represented 
as calmly descending into his grave, is very noble, 
and a very beautiful female figure, representing 
JFrance, who is endeavoring to detain him, and 
stay the approach of death, is most touching in 
its tenderness of expression. There are, in the 
same church, some curious relics of the past, in 
the shape of two bodies, said to be those of the 
Count of Nassau and his daughter, who died 
more than a century ago. They are kept in 
glass co£fins, and are in a wonderful state of 
preservation, although by no means beautiful. 
The gay brocade silk dress, and wreath of faded 
artificial flowers, on the poor shrimken head of 
the young lady, seemed a mockery ; and the 
spectacle was rather disgusting, although very 
curious as representing the costume of that day. 
Our visit to the establishment for the training 
of deaconesses was very interesting, and we 
found everything in beautiful order, and the 
sisterhood apparently very happy in the works 
of mercy and charity to which thej' consecrate 
themselves. The institution was founded twenty- 
six years ago, and during that time, thousands 
have received their tender care and ministration, 



166 THE OLD WORLD 

•whicli they bestow without reward — and as their 
report says, " to prove their gratitude to Him 
who has saved them." 

The town is full of nice shojis, and but for the 
vile odors which saluted us everywhere we went, 
•we should have enjoyed peeping into them ; but 
the pleasure of walking about the streets was 
much lessened by the sufferings to which one's 
nasal organs were exposed. So we retreated to 
our hotel, and being in the region 

' ' Where the ducks fly about with the true pheasant taint, 
And the geese are all born \\-ith the liver complaint," 

we of course tasted a "pate de foie gras," for 
which the place is so famous ; and as there are 
thiity-eight large breweries worked by steam in 
the town, we also had most excellent opportuni- 
ties of indulging in an unlimited amount of beer. 
The inducements to partake of that beverage 
were certainly very great, from the fact that a 
tavern near by bore the following inscrijjtion ; 
"Strong beer and wine of the first quality. 
Customers drinking more than twelve glasses, 
"WlU be sent home in a cab, free of charge, in case 

they are unable to walk." 

Baden-Baden, August 4. 

We are now in this fashionable German water- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 167 

ing-place, so charmingly situated among the 
hills forming the Black Forest range. The 
vaUey here is very narrow, and the town with its 
fine trees, shrubbery, and pretty gardens, is all 
one pleasure ground. Indeed pleasure seems the 
main end and object of life here, for one en- 
counters very few invahds, and all is elegance and 
display. Princes, blacklegs, and gayly-di-essed 
ladies are equally numerous, and the place is 
adapted to all tastes. There are balls, concerts, 
and gaming-tables, for those who like them, and 
for those who prefer quiet, there are shady walks, 
dark woods, and deep valleys, where the solitude 
is complete. There are thirteen springs in the 
town, aU of which are hot, and the temperature 
never varies at any season of the year. It is 
used mostly for bathing, but a few invahds 
resort to the handsome temple which serves as 
pump-room, and drink the waters very early in 
the morning. We found one trial of its quahties 
quite enough. 

The Kursaal, which is the celebrated gambhng 
establishment, is the great point of attraction 
here. The whole edifice is splendid in gildiag, 
upholstery, and immense chandehers. It offers 
aU its accommodations to visitors, free of charge 



168 THE OLD WORLD 

and throughout the season there is a concert of 
instrumental music every evening. There are 
free reading-rooms, attractive refi'eshment-rooms, 
and a magnificent room for concerts and balls. 
Here are the roulette tables, at which two per- 
sons preside with great solemnity, to mark the 
game, while groups of anxious gamblers are 
seated around — men and women, old and young. 
It was painful to watch the eagerness of some of 
the players, although there was less excitement 
than we were prepared to expect, and everything 
was done quietly and silently. As those who 
stake the money have really nothing to do with 
the process by means of which it changes hands, 
it is, of course, all sheer chance. Yet, stupid as 
it is, people sit there by the hour, losing at one 
moment, and winning at the next, until they 
have perhaps lost everything, or have won all 
they desire, for the present. So it goes on, day 
after day — so it has done for many years, and 
despair, ruin and suicide, have been the re- 
sults very often. Fortunately the players do 
not j)lay against each other, but against the bank, 
so that there are less quarrels than there would 
be, if it were more like private gambhng. Still, 
the misery caused here has been immense, and it 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 169 

is a blessed tiling that it is all to be done away 
with before long, by order of the Prussian govern- 
ment. 

We took a dehghtful drive of two miles through 
an avenue of shady oaks to Lichtenthal, which is 
pleasantly situated near a bexutifal valley, and 
afterwards ascended the hiU above the town, on 
the summit of which are the picturesque ruins of 
the old castle. It was the earhest residence of 
the ancestors of the house of Baden, and so situ- 
ated as to afford complete security fi-om the 
attacks of foes. From the galleries around its 
battlements, the views are very extensive and 
beautiful, comprising the Blacl: Forest, with its 
dense woods, enclosing verdant valleys — the 
town of Baden at your feet —villages, convents 
and church spires in the distance, while on the 
other side, the path of the Rhine may be traced 
far away. All this, seen in the light of the set- 
ting sun, made a picture long to be remembered. 

Eeidelberg. 

We came in sight of the most magnificent 
ruin in Continental Europe, in a little more than 
three hours from Baden ; and as the castle is on 
the brow of a high hiU which towers directly be- 
hind the city, it is almost constantly in view. 



J . THE OLD WOELD 

It is, indeed, one of the wonders of the world, 
for while it has been repeatedly captured and 
dismantled, twice struck by lightning, and in 
sixteen hundred and eighty-nine blown up by 
the French, it still stands gloriously beautiful in 
its decay. The walls, in some parts, are seven- 
teen feet thick, and the cunning hand of Art was 
busy for many centui'ies, raising and adorning 
them. Over the windows and doorways and 
chimneys, are exquisite sculptures, while tho 
outer walls are richly ornamented with statues. 
Many of them are entire and beautiful, but others 
have been sadly maimed, and present a very 
grotesque appearance, with noses sliced off, and 
arms and legs wanting. 

The most magnificent portions of the castle 
were built for the Enghsh Princess Elizabeth, 
daughter of James I. and granddaughter of Mary 
Queen of Scots, the wife of the Elector, Frederic 
v., afterwards king of Bohemia. Her married life 
commenced most brilhantly here, and one cannot 
but look sadly upon the beautiful palace, garden 
terrace and triumphal arch, erected in her honor, 
when one thinks of the misery of her later years. 
But she would be a queen, and when her hus- 
band hesitated to accept the crown of Bohemia^ 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 171 

filxe exclaimed : " Let me rather eat dry bread at 
a king's table, than feast at the board of an 
Elector I" So her desire was fulfilled, more 
literally than she wished or expected, for she and 
her children lived to eat dry bread, and were 
dependent on charity for the necessaries of life. 

There is an endless variety to the ruins of the 
castle, and the architectui-e of different ages 
strikes the eye in wandering about. There are 
towers, large and small, fantastic gables, a moat 
and drawbridge, and a curious old chapel. The 
ruins are aU the more impressive from the 
ivy which covers them — the large stalks of which 
show its great age ; while in many parts large 
trees are growing from the top of the walls. 
The Kent Tower, which was blown up by the 
French, but was too strongly built to be demol- 
ished, has a grove of Hnden trees on its summit. 
The Heidelberg Tun, which holds nearly three 
hundred thousand bottles of wine, is among the 
curiosities of the castle, and the funny image of 
the old man that used to keep it, is shown in the 
same eeUar. The Tun is shaped like a hogshead 
laid lengthwise, and over the top is a floor, where 
in former times, when it was fiUed, it was cus- 
tomary to dauce around the bunghole. It has 



172 THE OLD WORLD 

remained empty a hundred years, however, so 
that the voice of merriment has long ceased in 
that cellar, although the Tun is kept in repair. 
The view from the garden terrace is beautiful 
and extensive, comprising the romantic town 
crowded in between the mountain and the rush- 
ing stream of the Neckar, which is seen, for a 
long distance, winding through fertile vales. 
The spot where the students fight their absurd 
duels, on the opposite side of the river, was 
pointed out to us, and we afterwards met many 
of these youths, with their faces gashed and 
scarred and plastered up. They wear httle caps 
of different colors, about as large as a saucer, and 
much that shape, to denote the corps, or societies, 
of which they are members, and are frequentty 
accompanied by an immense dog. Their duels 
are seldom dangerous to life or limb, and the 
aim is always to disfigure the face by sword cuts, 
and not to injure seriously. As there are gene- 
rally about seven hundred students in Heidelberg, 
these cuttings and slashings are very common, 
and one scarcely stirs out without meeting some 
one who is enjoying a fresh wound. Heidelberg 
does not contain very much to interest transient 
visitors, but the church which has been for ceu- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 173 

turies occupied by Eomanists and Protestants, is 
very curious — a thick partition wall running be- 
tween the nave and the choir, the former belong- 
ing to the Lutherans, the latter to the CathoHcs- 
There is also a most elaborately carved stone 
house, black with age, very quaint in its appear- 
ance, which was erected in fifteen hundred and 
ninety-two, by a French Protestant who narrowly 
escaped the massacre of St. Bartholomew. His 
gratitude is expressed in several devout inscrip- 
tions in Latin on various parts of the building. 

"We drove out to the "VVoKs Brunnen, so named 
from a spring which rises there, and from a tra- 
dition that Jetta, an enchantress, who resided 
there, was torn to pieces by a woH. The place is 
famous for its trout, which are kept in a pool, 
and fed with other fish caught in the river. It is 
a great place of resort, but we were by no means 
fascinated with its attractions, for it seemed 
damp, dark and gloomy, while the dead fish 
floating on the top of the pool gave us a distaste 
for the gorged trout beneath the water, on which 
parties come there to dine. "We found the Swiss 
Cottage far above, on the mountain, much more 
attractive, with its beautiful views up and down 
the valley, and the wonderful castle beneath 



174 THE OLD WORLD 

US, its red ivy-covered walls gleaming in the set- 
ting sun. 

Frankfort. 

Our stay in this pleasant town, with its nu- 
merous white houses, so different from most 
continental cities, has been very brief, but we 
have driven through its broad, cheerful streets, 
and into the narrow dark lanes of the Jews' 
quarter, where the curious wooden buildings 
have gables overhanging their basement stories, 
out of the windows of which opposite neighbors 
might almost shake hands. In this odd place, 
the famous Rothschild family lived for many 
years, and here the venerable mother preferred 
remaining all her life, when she might have oc- 
cupied a palace near by. 

We have thoroughly enjoyed the great art 
gloiy of Frankfort, the Ariadne of Dannecker, of 
which it has been said that " travellers on the 
road to Italy praise it, and aU on their way 
home criticise it." The ease and grace of the 
attitude, the position of the head, and the ex- 
quisite beauty of the foi-m are most charming, 
and it seemed to us faultless. One could not but 
think of the j)oor little boy whose scrawls with 
chalk and charcoal, on the marble of the stone- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 175 

cutter who lived next door to Lim, were the 
occasion of constant beatings from his father. 
But blows and lockings-up could not quench the 
genius of Dannecker. Neither could poverty 
and loneHness, home-sickness and heart-sickness 
among the ruins and relics of Rome. When rerj 
old, after recei\'ing all worldly honors, Canova 
Paid him a visit, and was so struck by his child- 
like simplicty, pure, unworldly nature, genuine 
goodness and happy temperament, that he called 
him " The Blessed." 

Somburg. 
We are again in the midst of the gayety and 
gambling of a much frequented watering-place. 
The Kursaal, with its pleasure-grounds and 
music, is very attractive, while the virtues of the 
medicinal springs attract many who need the 
benefit of their heahng waters. One difference 
between this place and Baden-Baden seems 
to be, that here gambling goes on through the 
entu'e year, except Sundays, and fete days, making 
three thousand six hundred play-hoiu's in a year. 
It is impossible to imagine the amount won and 
lost during that time. Disgusted as we were 
with gambling, we found ourselves watching the 
games with interest ; and we saw one young man 



176 THE OLD WORLD 

win a large pile of gold, and by degrees lose 
eyery particle of it ; when he left the table with 
a countenance perfectly unmoved, although his 
eagerness to win had been almost painful. One 
of the markers of the game, a solemn-looking 
individual, kept uttering the words, " Le jeu est 
fait, rien ne vas plus," with such deep tones, and 
in such a monotonous manner, that it reminded 
me of poor little Paul Dombey at Dr. Blimber's 
school, when the clock continually repeated the 
doctor's question, "How-do-you-do, my-httle- 
friend?" 

Homburg is beautifully situated, with pleasant 
walks and drives aU about its neighborhood ; and 
while many bodily cures are undoubtedly effected 
here, it is equally certain that many fortunes 
take wings across the green cloth, and are 
swallowed up in the capacious jaws of the 
bank. 

Cologne, August 10. 

A lovely day found us on the majestic Rhine, 
which with its ruined castles standing like silent 
sentinels on its heights, its vineyards, crags and 
mountains, presented a constantly changing 
picture, a " blending of all beauties," which we 
enjoyed extremely. The fortress of Ehi-enbret- 



SEEN "^TTH YOUNG EYES. 177 

stein opposite Cobleutz, with which it is connected 
by a bridge of boats, is a massive and command- 
ing structure, and seems perfectly invulnerable. It 
is almost entirely hewn out of the natural rock, 
and its resources are wonderful, it being capable 
of holding a garrison of fourteen thousand men, 
and the magazines are large enough to contain 
provisions for eight thousand men for ten years. 
It is, indeed, a stupendous fortification, towering 
majestically above ever;y"thing else, and may well 
be called a " tower of victory." 

The picturesque castle of Stolzenfels, which 
stands very high upon a jutting rock overlooking 
the Rhine, also justifies its name, " Pi'oud Rock," 
by its commanding position, and truly regal 
appearance. "With its ivy-covered battlements, 
turrets and towers, it is said to be the most 
imposing of all the castles on the Rhine. It was 
here that Queen Victoria and Prince Albert paid 
a visit some years ago to the King of Prussia. 
Shortly after passing it, we met a steamboat 
profusely decorated with British and Prussian 
flags, on which was the Prince of Wales, bound 
for the same charming place, to visit his sister, 
the Princess of Prussia. We reached Cologne 
late ia the evening, after a day of constant and 
12 



178 THE OLD WORLD 

eager devotion to the beauties of the Rhine, 
which we thought a^??ios^ equal to our own noble 
Hudson — but not quite. The captain of the 
steamboat, a young man of much intelligence, 
consoled us when we mentioned our lack of 
ruins, by saying, "Ah, but you do not need 
them !" He was right. 

After a night's rest, we were prepared to visit 
the grand and beautiful Cologne Cathedral, 
which was commenced six hundred years ago, 
and is not yet finished. Workmen are employed 
to arrest the decay which has been going on for 
centuries, and others are adding their skill to the 
already exquisite workmanship evident every- 
where. Yet it seems almost a hopeless task ever 
to finish the structure, although there is now a 
general interest felt in its completion all over 
Europe. Its gray buttresses are draped with 
verdure, vines and briars everywhere feed on its 
decay, ivy and moss overrun its walls in many 
places, while swallows and other birds build 
their nests amid the sculpture of its arches. 
But this decay is less evident within, as there 
are magnificent painted windows of modern date, 
and the vast pillars and arches are very imposing. 
The choir is very beautiful, with its rich painted 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 179 

windows of the fourteenth century, tapestries 
after designs by Eubens, frescoes, pillars, cha- 
pels and statues of the Apostles in colored and 
golden robes. Behind the high altar is the 
shrine of the three kings of Cologne — the wise 
men led by the star of Bethlehem to the manger 
where the infant Saviour lay. Through an 
opening in the shrine, the three skulls are seen, 
crowned ^vith golden crowns ; their names, Gas- 
par, Melchior, and Balthazar, being written in 
rubies. They are most curious and ghastly 
relics, but are looked upon with entire faith by 
devout Catholics. 

Santa Maria in Capitolio, which occupies the 
site of the capitol of the Roman city, is one of 
the oldest churches in Cologne. It dates from 
the year one thousand, and is placed upon the 
same spot on which a church was founded in the 
year seven hundred. We descended into the 
ancient crypt, which was once used as a place of 
worship, the walls of which are still covered with 
old paintings, and everything in perfect repair. 

Cologne abounds in historical associations, and 
has much to interest in the way of pictures and 
antiquities. The Town Hall is a noble old build- 
ing, having been erected in different centuries, 



180 THE OLD WOKLD 

and combining the Gothic and Italian styles. 
We felt, in walking about, that whatever might 
have been the state of Cologne in the days of 
Coleridge, it hardly deserved the reputation he 
has given it by the well-known lines : 

" The river Rhine, it is well known, 
Doth wash your city of Cologne ; 
But tell me, nymphs, what power divine 
ShaU henceforth wash the river Ehine?" 

Certainly, the river Rhine can wash it now, 
and not need much cleansing. Perhaps the 
reputation for vile odors may have been an 
advantage to the various manufacturers of Eau 
de Cologne, of which there are twenty and more 
who claim to be the veritable successors of the 
inventor, Jean Maria Farina himself. Of one of 
these unmistakable personages we made a pur- 
chase, which quite satisfied us, although we were 
by no means sure that his was the genuine arti- 
cle, after all. One cannot buy of all the com- 
petitors, however, and must exercise much faith. 

Urussells. 

Our journey of several hours to the gay little 

capital of Belgium, was warm and uncomfortable, 

and the drive from the railway station to the 

pleasant Hotel de Bellevue, in the Place Eoyale, 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 181 

seemed interminable. We found ourselves near 
a park, rich in grand old trees, and adorned 
with statuary. The house itself had been made 
famous in the revolution of eighteen hundred 
and thirty, by being in the midst of the combat 
between the Dutch troops and Belgian insur- 
gents. It was riddled with shot, and for a long 
time, many of the cannon balls were allowed to 
remain imbedded in the walls ; but it is a peace- 
ful, quiet place, now, and thoroughly comforta- 
ble. In the centre of the square in front of the 
hotel is a spirited horse, in bronze, which looks 
ready to leap from his pedestal, with his rider, 
Godfrey of Bouillon. One could not but think of 
the different scenes that square must have pre- 
sented after the battle of Waterloo, when the 
poor wounded soldiers were carried by hundreds 
through it. The city now is so bright, gay and 
cheerful, so like a Paris in miniature, that it is 
difficult to associate such scenes of misery with it. 
When we visited the lace manufactory, how- 
ever, for which Brussells is so famous, we felt 
that we were in a scene of misery in one sense, 
although the fabric shown us was so exquisitely 
beautiful. Brussells lace loses much of its 
beauty when one learns that those who spin the 



182 THE OLD WOELD 

thread are obliged to work in close, dark rooms, 
into whicli the light is admitted through a small 
aperture, thus requiring such careful attention as 
to make the effort very painful. Those who 
make the lace are all rendered near-sighted by 
the nature of the labor, and frequently lose their 
sight entirely. Most of the poor creatures whom 
we saw at work, looked sad and dispirited, and 
we did not wonder, when we saw them straining 
their eyes over the delicate meshes. They some- 
times work steadily for days, on a single flower 
or leaf ; and the lace is kept unsoiled by being 
constantly covered, except at the point on which 
they are immediately engaged. It was a striking 
commentary on the business that a box was 
placed in the workroom, for the contribution of 
visitors towards the support of those who had 
become blind, or disabled by the work ; and it 
was something of a reUef to our consciences, to 
bestow our mite, after making a purchase. 

The Cathedral of St. Gudule is a very hand- 
some Gothic edifice, with splendid painted glass 
windows, and statues of the twelve apostles 
placed against the pillars in the nave. There 
are also some monuments to the Dukes of Bra- 
bant, one of them being a lion in bronze. The 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 183 

pulpit is a masterpiece of wood carving, by Ver- 
bruggeu ; and the more we examined its minute- 
ness and perfection of finish, the more remarkable 
it seemed. " It represents a globe supported on 
the tree of knowledge of good and evil. At the 
base of the tree, Adam and Eve are being driven 
out of Paradise by an angel, who wields the 
sword of flame ; while Death, as a sheeted skele- 
ton, glides around with his dart, from the other 
side. The tree is teeming with delicious-looking 
fruit, and perched on the branches are many 
birds and animals. At the side of Adam are 
the ostrich and the eagle, while, in rather satiri- 
cal vicinity to Eve, appear the ape, the peacock 
and the parrot. Above the canopy stands the 
Virgin, bearing the infant Saviour in her arms, 
and assisting to thrust the extremity of the cross 
into the serpent's head." The pulpit is certainly 
a sermon in itself, and it is doubtful if more 
eloquent ones are often preached from it. 

We found much to admire in the way of paint- 
ings, in the old Palace of the Prince of Orange, 
and looked with great interest upon the grand 
Hotel de Ville, situated in a grand old square. 
It was finished in fourteen hundred and forty- 
two, and is said to be the most splendid munici- 



184 THE OLD WOELD 

pal palace in the Netherlands. The abdication 
of Charles V. took place here, and in the market- 
place in front, the Counts Egmont and Horn 
were beheaded by order of the cruel Alva, in 
fifteen hundred and sixty-eight. From the win- 
dows of an old Gothic house in front of the 
square, Alva is said to have looked down on the 
execution. The beautiful tower of Gothic open- 
work, upon the Hotel de YiUe, is surmounted by 
a copper figure of St. Michael, which is seventeen 
feet high, but seems no larger than an ordinary 
weathercock. The view from the spire is very 
extensive, and the colossal lion which marks the 
centre of the battle-field of Waterloo is easily 
seen from it. The house, too, which Lord Byron 
has made so memorable, where the Duchess of 
Gordon gave the grand ball on the eve of that 
wonderful battle, is still standing — but the 
"beauty and the chivalry " of that occasion have 
long since passed away. 

Paris, September 3. 

We have spent three charming weeks in this 
most charming city, and begin to feel that we 
have seen a little of Paris — but only a little, com- 
pared with what remains to be seen. We have 
wandered through the immense palace of the 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 185 

Louvre, with its seven miles of pictures — its 
sculptures, relics, models, costumes of all times 
and lands, and personal memorials of nearly all 
the French, monarchs. Among the latter, a 
valuable cabinet, belonging to Marie Antoinette, 
and the vei-itable gray coat and three-cornered 
hat which one so frequently sees in the portraits 
of Napoleon I. One feels almost oppressed by 
the vastness and richness of the collection. 

At Versailles, we literally skated through the 
galleries, the floors being so highly polished as 
to render the effort of walking almost painful. 
We found mvach to interest us in the portraits of 
distinguished characters of France, and laughed 
heartily over the caricatures of oui* own Wash- 
ington, and other American celebrities, which 
were hanging in state in one of the rooms. 

The collection of battle-pieces by Horace 
Vernet, Paul de la Roche, and numerous others, 
is something wonderful, and would require 
weeks to examine. Among the sculptui'es, the 
admirable statue of Joan of Arc, by the Princess 
Marie of Orleans, the daughter of Louis Philippe, 
seemed a remarkable specimen of artistic skill — 
remarkable, at least, for royal hands. 

We found the gardens and park, with their 



186 THE OLD WOELD 

numerous fountains, statues, and vases, most 
enchanting ; and it was pleasant to see every- 
where the merry groups who were enjoying it 
all to theii' hearts' content. 

The Grand Trianon, which is a handsome 
villa erected by Louis XIV. for Madame de 
Main tenon, contains some sumptuous apartments ; 
while the Petite Trianon is simple, but tasteful, 
and infinitely more intei^esting from its having 
been the favorite resort of Marie Antoinette. 
The windows open upon a beautiful garden, and 
one could imagine what a charming retreat it 
must have been from the ceremonious life of 
royalty. We found it a striking contrast a few 
days after, to visit the low, brick-paved apartment 
of the Conciergerie, where for seventy-six days, 
after her husband had been beheaded, and her 
children torn away from her, she was tortured 
by misery, grief and humiliation. From this 
gloomy apartment she went to the guillotine, 
and we looked with sad interest upon the abode 
of such wretchedness. Upon a little altar in the 
room, is the small bronze crucifix which she 
used, and there are three pictiires upon the wall, 
representing some of the closing scenes in her 
life — otherwise the room is empty and desolate. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 187 

One could almost imagine the noble woman, in 
her simple white dress, walking through the low 
door for the last time, with the majestic step 
which never faltered, presenting to the morning 
air her head turned gray by sorrow. One shud- 
dered to think of the noble, refined woman, 
placed upon a common cart, her hands tied 
behind her, while the vulgar mob leered and 
jeered, followed her to the place of execution, 
and taunted her in her agonies ; even stopping 
the cart in front of her palace, that she might be 
still farther agonized at seeing her former home, 
now so desolate. 

Near the Conciergerie is the building occupied 
by the Prefecture de Police, and fi'om this point 
emanates all the threads of the visible and in- 
visible net-work of police authority-. Public 
security is so admirably provided for in Paris 
that we were not sorry to see this building, 
although we found a discouraging amount of 
circumlocution necessary, in order to reach the 
Prefect, through whose permission alone we 
were allowed to visit the Conciergerie. 

"We met hosts of policemen, both in uniform 
and in citizens' dress, in oui- amusing wanderings 
up-stairs and down-stairs, to find the Prefect's 



188 THE OLD WORLD 

chamber, and were almost afraid of being arrest- 
ed for vagrants before our efforts were crowned 
mth success. 

We made a sliort visit to the Palais de Justice, 
and saw the judges and advocates in their black 
robes, pacing up and down the long, lofty hall, 
through which most of the courts are entered. 
The Saiute Chapelle, near by, was originally the 
palace chapel, and erected in twelve hundred 
and forty-five, for the reception of sacred relics. 
The interior consists of two chapels, an upper 
and a lower — the former havuig been des- 
tened for the accommodation of the court, the 
latter for the attendants. The Chapel is a very 
beautiful Gothic edifice, and in the upper chapel 
are clusters of columns, rich decorations, and 
gorgeous stained-glass windows of ancient date, 
which are placed so near together that the sides 
and ends seem entirely of glass. The effect is 
very rich and elegant. 

We were very much delighted with the Jardiu 
des Plantes, where all classes of objects belonging 
to Natural History are represented. The gar- 
dens are tastefully laid out, and an endless vari- 
ety of living plants, animals and birds, are to be 
found there, while in the buildings that suiTOund 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 189 

the garden are immense cabinets of botany, 
mineralogy, zoology, and comparative anatomy. 
There are free lectures given by different pro- 
fessors on all subjects connected with the king- 
dom ol nature, in a large amphitheatre, which is 
capable of containing twelve thousand persons. 

In the early part of this century, Humboldt 
presented four thousand five hundred tropical 
plants, which he had brought fi'om America — 
three thousand of which belonged to species 
hitberto unknown. We rested some time beneath 
a magnificent cedar of Lebanon, which was 
planted there in seventeen hundred and thirty- 
five, while the celebrated Buffon was director of 
the gardens. Our diive through the beautiful 
Bois de Vincennes, which was formerly an 
ancient forest, and as early as twelve hundred a 
favorite hunting-ground of the French monarchs, 
was charming. It has been quite recently laid 
out as a Park, in the same style as the Bois de 
Bologne, and will, one day, rival it in beauty. 
The chateau of Yincennes is very picturesque 
and interestmg, from the many historical associ- 
ations connected ^vith it for hundreds of years, 
and the long list of illustrious persons confined 
within its walls. It is now used as an armory, 



190 THE OLD WOULD 

and contains weapons for the equipment of one 
hundred and twenty thousand men. The won- 
derful collection of curiosities in the Hotel Cluny, 
astonished and delighted us, as well as the 
quaint building itself. The curiosities exceed 
three thousand in number, and are of endless 
variety. There are carvings, ecclesiastical deco- 
rations and vestments, furniture, tapestry, wea- 
pons, carved ivory, stained glass, pictures, etc. 
One room is called "La Chambre de la Reine 
Blanche," because Mary, sister of Henry VIII. 
of England, and widow of Louis XII., once 
occupied it, and wore white mourning according 
to the custom of the Queens of England. It 
contains now a variety of musical instruments of 
olden times — among them the earliest style of 
piano, a little thing on slender legs, very different 
from the grand and massive ones now in use. 

Through the back court one enters the lofty, 
vaulted hall, which constitutes the only remnant 
of the old Roman baths. It seems a strange 
thing to find there, and with the curiosities it 
contains, is the only specimen of the old Roman 
period existing in Paris. 

We have been fortunate in being in Paris 
during the fete in honor of the birthday of 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 191 

Napoleon I., wliich occurs on the fifteer.tli of 
August. The illumination, decorations, and fire- 
Y/orks were very grand and imposing, and the 
mihtary display very fine. The Emperor rode 
up and down the ranks reviewing the troops, 
followed by the Prince Imperial, who touched 
his cap gracefully to the thousands of people 
who stood to the right and left, looking on. 
There did not seem to be much enthusiasm, 
however, and we only heard " Vive I'Emperor," 
now and then. One could not but look with 
deep interest on the pretty little boy, and won- 
der what the future had in store for him. We 
afterwards saw the Empress, and were sorry to 
notice a care-worn expression on her still beauti- 
ful face ; but her life must necessarily be one of 
great anxiety, and of late, the health of her only 
child has been an added sorrow to her loving 
heart. He looked very robust, however. The 
scene in the Place de la Concorde, in the 
evening, was magnificent. The place itself, 
with the beautiful trees of the Tuilleries on one 
side, the Champs Elysees opposite, the two 
fountains, the obelisk of Luxor, the groups and 
single statues, all were brilliantly illuminated. 
The entire length of the Champs Elysees to the 



192 THE OLD WORLD 

Arc de Triomphe was a scene of enchantment — 
rows of lamps on each side making the whole 
distance as light as noon-day, and showing the 
outline of the arch Avith entire distinctness. 
From the Tuilleries garden to the Arc de Tri- 
omphe there was a dense crowd of people — men, 
women and children — and it is difficult to 
imagine a more animated, or more beautiful 
scene. The fete finished with some gorgeous 
fire- works, which seemed to illuminate the whole 
heavens. Notwithstanding the immense crowd, 
evei'ything passed off very quietly and harmoni- 
ously, and the PoUce had little to do but look on. 
We have seen more of our own Protestant 
chiu'ches in Paris than any others, but the Ma- 
deleine and Notre Dame claimed our notice, and 
the former seemed to us very unchurchlike, 
although very magnificent. It is wholly of 
marble, without and within, and its form is that 
of a Grecian Temple, it having been designed by 
Napoleon I. as a " Temple of Glory." Afterwards 
the distinction of the edifice was altered by 
Louis XVm. who proposed to convert it into an 
expiatory church to the memory of Louis XVI., 
Louis XVn., Marie Antionette, and Madame 
Elizabeth. The restored Bourbon dynasty made 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 193 

it a church, and it was completed under Louis 
Philippe, with an inscription on the front which 
dedicated it " to the Almighty God, through the 
invocation of St. Mary Magdalene." The Co- 
rinthian colonnade by which it is surrounded, 
with its magnificent cornice and colossal figiires 
of saints between the columns, all make it very 
grand. There are no windows, but the Hght 
enters through foui* sky-hghts which surmount 
cupolas, very gorgeously gilded. This, however, 
prevents many of the pictures and statues from 
being seen to the best advantage, as the hght is 
insufficient. All the chapels are decorated with 
statues of their different patron saints, and 
pictures representing scenes from the life of Mary 
Magdalene. The Chapelle des Mariages contains 
a grou]3 in marble representing the nuptials of 
the Virgin ; and the Chapelle des Fonts, or bap- 
tismal chapel, is adorned with a group represent- 
ing Christ and John the Baptist in the Jordan. 
The interior is a spacious hall, richly decorated 
and gilded, and very beautiful, but does not 
suggest a temple of worship. 

Notre Dame is a fine Gothic structure of a very 
different character. It stands on an island in the 
Seine, and is sui'rounded by sheds and workshops, 
13 



194 THE OLD WORLD 

whicli do not add to its beauty, but its tbree 
arched portals, with their exquisite sculptures, are 
rery fine. The three rose windows of ancient 
stained glass are considered the most beautiful 
in Europe ; but the effect of the interior has been 
sadly injured by the recent painting of the various 
chapels, in genuine wall-paper patterns. This 
church will always be iaterestiag from the asso- 
ciations connected with it — Napoleon I. having 
been married here to Josephine, and the present 
Emperor to the present Empress. On the 
occasion of the baptism of the Prince Imperial, 
the ceiling was decorated with golden stars on a 
blue ground. This, however, has been removed, 
although the present taste is very questionable. 
"We have, of course, indulged in the " round of 
shopping " which seems to be considered essential 
to a thorough understanding of Paris, and while 
we have found the shops abundantly suppKed 
with the most elegant articles, we have not found 

" All manner of things that a woman can put 
On the crown of her head, or the sole of her foot," 

SO very cheap. Certain things in the way of 
finery may be cheaper, but anything substan- 
tially elegant, is costly. Still, there is no doubt 
that the same thing would be more expensive hx 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 195 

our own land ; so that when one is in Paris, it is 
better to take advantage of that fact. Then 
there is an air about anything made by a Parisian 
modiste, which it is difficult for any one else to 
acquire, for the French seem to have a magic 
power in matters of dress. 

Newport, Isle of Wight, S ept. 7. 

There could not well be a greater change than 
from gay, bustling Paris to this quiet old 
town. Our journey here was most agreeably 
varied by a short visit to Eouen and Havre. In 
the forifier place, we went first to the Cathedral, 
a splendid monument of Gothic architecture, 
containing many fine sculi^tures and monuments ; 
among them the tomb of Richard Cceur de Lion, 
whose heart is buried in the Cathedral, he having 
bequeathed it to the city of Rouen, on account of 
the great love he bore the Normans. 

The chui-ch of St. Ouen is much superior to 
the Cathedral in poiat of size and architectural 
beauty, although having less historic monuments. 
The central tower is very elegant, being nearly 
three himdi'ed feet high, and of most graceful 
proportions, while the interior is a "perfect 
pattern of airy gracefulness." We were dehghted 
with oxuc di-ive through the quaint streets of 



196 THE OLD WORLD 

Rouen, with its most curious old gateways and 
elaborately carved dwellings. The Place de la 
Pucelle, took us back to the thirtieth of July, 
fourteen hrmdred and thirty-one, when Joan of 
Arc, the glorious shepherd girl that had dehvered 
France, was burned at the stake. A monument 
is erected to her memory, to mark the place 
where she suffered. And here that young girl of 
twenty was burned for heresy, with a soldier's 
staff broken, and formed into a rough cross, 
clasped to her breast ; while her meek and saintly 
demeanor won from her enemies, that* till now 
had beheved her a witch, tears of rapturous 
admiration. And when the smoke was rising 
upwards in volumes, and she saw that the one 
friend that would not forsake her, a Dominican 
monk, who was praying at her side, was in 
danger, she thought only of him, bidding him 
with her last breath to care for his own preserva- 
tion, but to leave her to God. 

It is not strange that the executioner knelt at 
every shrine for pardon for his share in this 
awful tragedy ! Now, it is said that the Bishop 
of Orleans seriously intends to demand of the 
Pope, to canonize the heroic girl. How strange 
that a Chm-ch which in one century burns a 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 197 

woman at the stake as an instrument of the foul 
fiend, can, in another, proclaim that she was a 
saint ; and that pious Catholics must teU their 
beads before her statue to the supphcation, 
" Saint Joan of Arc ! pray for us !" 

The fact that Havre was a seaport town, 
seemed to reveal itself everywhere we went ; and 
we found the collections of shells and corals in 
the shops very attractive. It seemed to us that 
every shop was a depository for various articles 
pertaining to the sea. Few things, however, 
interested us so much as the wonderful aquarium 
in the gardens of the Exposition, which is most 
admirably managed, and contains a great variety 
of fish and beautiful sea plants. The hght 
coming from above, upon the large glass tanks 
containing them, added very much to the effect, 
and we wandered about among these " wonders 
of the deep " for a long time with great dehght. 

Our voyage from Havre to Southampton was 
made in one of the elegant and commodious 
steamers with which travellers are accommodated 
in crossing the channel! The spacious saloon 
was hardly large enough to " swing a cat " in ; 
and although Kke Mr. Dick in David Copper- 
field, I could say, " I don't want to swing a cat, I 



198 THE OLD WOKT.D 

never do swing a cat ; therefore, what does that 
signify to me !" yet I found it did signify, so I 
resigned my right in the crowded cabin, and 
very thankfully took a position on deck for 
the night. With a glorious full moon, and 
the sea without a ripple, the night passed 
most comfortably, and we were all prepared to 
sing again the praises of the Channel, over which 
we had passed twice with such entire comfort. 

We remained in Southampton only long enough 
to walk from one steamer to another, and after 
a pleasant saU of an hour, found ourselves at 
Cowes on the Isle of Wight, from which place to 
Newport was only a short expedition by rail. 
The Isle of Wight has been called a miniature 
England, and it certainly seems to have the exqui- 
site finish which only a master hand can give. The 
afternoon of our arrival, we drove to Carisbrook 
Castle, in which Charles I. was imprisoned dur- 
ing the troublous times of Cromwell and the 
Commonwealth, The window from which he 
attempted to escape is still shown ; and one 
could not look from it, and think of his sad fate, 
without a feehng of sorrowful sympathy. The 
castle is most charmingly situated, commanding 
views in aU directions, of hills, dales, woods and 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 199 

gentlemen's villas. We wandered about tte walls, 
looking through the openings, and climbing to 
the top of the keep, where we sat for a long time 
enjoying the beauty of the scene. Below us was 
the old tournament ground, and it required but 
a little imagination to bring before us the gay 
cavaHers, and bright-eyed ladies, who once graced 
that spot. The famous well of the Castle, which 
is two hundred and ten feet deep, and twelve 
wide, is very remarkable, and the trained donkey 
which draws the water stepped upon the wheel 
and kept it in motion imtil the bucket was raised, 
quite as if he considered it a matter of course. 
The immense depth of the well is all the more 
wonderful when one considers that there are 
only twenty-five feet of masonry, and the rest is 
cut from the solid rock. Wlien a pin is di-opped 
into the well, the sound produced when it strikes 
the water is distinctly heard ; and a candle let 
down, was almost lost to sight from the great 
distance it travelled before reaching the water. 

Donkeys are quite an institution here, and we 
saw one meek-looking animal browsing quietly 
about, enjoying a green old age, which had 
worked faithfully at the windlass more than forty 
years. 



200 THE OLD WORLD 

On our retui'n from the castle, we visited some 
curious Roman remains near Newport, wliich 
were discovered nine years ago. It has been 
supposed that a Roman villa once stood upon 
the spot, and some of the mosaic pavement is 
very perfect and entire. . The woman in charge 
of the place amused us very much with her de- 
scription of the various rooms originally there, 
going about with all the air of having resided 
there in the old Roman days, and pointing out 
each different apartment by saying " This were the 
kitchen — ^this tvere the court-yard," &c. 

We have spent one day driving about the 
island and visiting the scene of Legh Richmond's 
labors — a day long to be remembered. On our 
way to Brading we went to one of the extensive 
chalk-pits for which the island is so famous, and 
it seemed strange to stand upon the brink of a 
precipice formed entkely of the soft, pure material. 
The bright sun upon it made it quite unpleas- 
antly dazzling to the eye. Shortly after, we 
ascended a hill and sat down on the ground near 
the triangular stone pyramid where Legh Rich- 
mond so often sat, when his mind was "filled 
with any interesting subject for meditation." It 
was pleasant to look upon the same glorious 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 201 

scenes which had charmed him so often, and "we 
found, indeed, a " complete circle of interesting 
objects," comprising every variety of beautiful and 
magnificent views. HiUs covered with corn, 
grass, wood, heafti or fern — a river running 
through fruitful valleys — villages, churches, coun- 
try-seats, farm-houses and cottages, were scat- 
tered in every direction, while far off appeared 
the ocean glittering in the sunhght. We spent 
some time on this favorite "mount for con- 
templation," and then drove to the old church 
in Brading where Legh Richmond so faithfully 
labored. The church is an antique structure of 
the seventh century, and the parsonage formerly 
stood at the end of the church-yard, but has 
been taken down. The trees under which he 
used to assemble his little group, are still stand- 
ing, and we could imagine them dispersed in the 
church-yard, learning the verses he desired. 
"Little Jane, the young cottager," is buried 
near the church, and the stone is stOl to be seen 
with the epitaph she learned, which so much 
impressed her. Few churches are visited with 
more interest than thfs simple, unpretending 
structure, which brings travellers from all parts 
of the world — Legh Richmond's tracts having 



202 THE OLD WORLD 

been translated into nearly every European lan- 
guage. 

We drove to Sandovrn, a pretty bathing-place 
on the sea, and were quite amused in watching 
the smaU houses drawn out into the water by a 
single horse, into which ladies entered on the 
shore, handsomely bedecked, and soon appeared 
at the rear of the house, plunging into the waves, 
and looking very much hke escaped lunatics. 

From Sandown we drove to the beautiful 
village of Shanklin, and walked through Shank- 
lin Chine, a curious opening in the cHflf, through 
which a stream of water runs, the steep descend- 
ing sides being covered with trees, bushes, 
wild-flowers and ferns, while occasionally bold 
masses of rocks appear. It is the wildest, pretti- 
est place imaginable, with views of the ocean, 
now and then, which were magnificent. At the 
upper extremity of this great fissure, some pic- 
turesque cottages, covered with ivy, are placed, 
and near one, a pretty rustic fountain asked us 
to partake of its cooling water, by an inscription 
rudely printed upon it : 

O, traveller, stay thy weary feet ; 
Drink of this foimtain, cool and sweet ; 
It flows for rich and poor the same. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 203 

Then go thy way, remembering still 
The wayside well beneath the hill, 
The cup of water in his name.' 

Such an invitation was irresistible, and we 
found the pure element most refreshing after our 
long tramp. 

OiQ' drive to Heal Common, the former home 
of the Dairyman's Daughter, added another 
pleasure to our pleasant day. The cottage stands 
as it did in the days of the "Walbridge family, but 
they have long since passed away. The house 
still wears the old aspect of neatness, and the 
httle dairy, with its stone floor, bright rows of 
tins, and fresh pats of butter, looked very invit- 
ing, but the Httle, low chamber, where Elizabeth 
"Walbridge 's weary hours of suffering were made 
bright and peaceful by her Christian faith, was 
more interesting than all. One could almost 
imagine the pale face lying iipon that pillow, and 
the feeble voice uttering her last words — " All is 
well, weU, well." 

We went to the old church of Arreton, with its 
dial on the wall, where she was buried on the 
thirtieth of May, eighteen hundred and one. It 
is a cui-ious specimen of olden time, with tablets 
inserted in the walls, and upon the pillars, while 



204 THE OLD WORLD 

the chlirchyard in which it stands is filled with 
crumbling tombstones and quaint epitaphs. One 
individual, who had left a yearly sum to the poor, 
is thus commemorated on one of the church 
tablets : 

"Loe here under this tombe incoutcht 

Is William Serle by name ; 
Who for his deeds of cbaritie 

Deserveth worthy fame. 
A man within this Parish borne, 

And in the house called Stone 
A glasse for to behold a work 

Hath left to every one ; 
For that unto the people pore 

Of Arreton he gave 
An hundi-ed powndes in redie coyne 

He wUled that they shoold have 
To be employed rn fittest sorte 

As man coold best invent 
For yearly relief to the pore, 

That was his good intent ; 
Thus did this man, a batcheler, 

Of years full fifty-nyne, 
And doeinge good to many a one, 

Soe did he spend his tyme, 
Until the days he did decease, 

The first of Februarey, 
And in the yeare of One Thousand 

Five hundred neyntie-five." 

We have been made very comfortable at the 
Bugle Hotel in Newport, and are quite willing 
to sound its praise in loud and earnest tones. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 205 

Indeed, there are few days that better deserve a 
"white stone," than those we have passed on the 
lovely Isle of Wight. 

London, September 11. 

We find London comparatively quiet and de- 
serted at this unfashionable season, and it seems 
to have lost many of its charms since we left, 
last May. But we have found much to interest 
us, nevertheless, and our visit to the National 
Museum at South Kensington was a source of 
great pleasure, not only for the immense collec- 
tions in the way of botany, models, drawings, 
china, etc., but the numerous fine paintings to bo 
seen there. The buildings are on the most ex- 
tensive scale, and admirably arranged ; and it 
was a great pleasure to look upon the originals 
of so many pictures long familiar to us in en- 
gravings. The gallery is rich in paintings by 
Hogarth, Sir Joshua Reynolds, Copley, Sir 
Benjamin West, Turner, and Landseer. It 
abounds in portraits of distinguished personages, 
and we stood for a long time before those of 
John Philip Kemble and Mrs. Siddons, by Sir 
Thomas Lawrence. The former is superbly 
dressed as Hamlet, while the latter wears the 
ffhort waist of the day, with her arms bare to the 



206 THE OLD WOKLD 

shoulders — the beautiful arms, on which it is 
said that Sir Thomas Lavtrence employed sixty 
hours. The famous Cartoons of Raphael, which 
were originally made for designs in tapestry for 
the Vatican, and are described as " not excelled 
in beauty and completeness by any paintings in 
existence," are now at Kensington, after a 
sojourn of many years at Hampton Court. One 
only wonders that they should be in such a per- 
fect state of preservation, after so long a time, 
and so many changes. "We paid a pleasant visit 
to Christ's Hospital, or the Blue-Coat School, 
one day ; and while we could not but appreciate 
the noble charity which thus educates and main- 
tains sometimes twelve hundred boys at once, 
we felt sorry for the poor fellows in the cruelly 
grotesque apparel prescribed for them, at the 
founding of the school, more than three hundred 
years ago. A long blue cloth coat, reaching 
nearly to their heels, an orange-colored short pet- 
ticoat, a red leather belt, yellow stockings, and 
white bands, may have been considered the thing 
centuries ago, but now it looks strangely enough. 
The funny little woollen cap belonging to this 
costume, is about the circumference of a small 
saucer, has a tassel on the top, and no rim, fits 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 207 

the head quite snugly, and is carried in the 
pocket. We constantly met the boys in various 
parts of the city, and they were always bare- 
headed ; and we were told that even in winter 
they preferred the covering which nature has 
given their heads, to the prescribed caps. They 
find the long blue coat very much in their way 
sometimes, and we were quite amused with their 
ingenuity in tucking it up under their belts when 
at play, thus making an odd-looking short jacket 
of it. Everything in the hospital is in beautiful 
order and thoroughly comfortable. 

Numerous portraits of Edward VI., the young 
boy-king who founded the institution, embellish 
the walls, and we walked about thinking of 
Charles Lamb, and other men of world-wide 
fame, who had made these corridors ring with 
their merry laughter. 

On the last day of our stay in London we made 
a pilgrimage to the Tower, one of the most re- 
markable places there, it having been at different 
times, a strong fortress, a splendid palace, a 
secure prison, and associated with the history of 
the past, for centuries. The first part was built 
by "William the Conqueror, in ten hundred and 
seventy-six, as a safe place of retreat for himself 



208 THE OLD WOKLD 

and his followers in case of a revolt against him 
by the citizens of London. The Tower is now 
a confused cluster of buildings, each having its 
own history. It is manned by a considerable 
body of troops, and contains the principal suj^ply 
of arms for the army and navy. It was wonder- 
ful to see the artistic skill with which these arms 
are arranged on the walls and ceilings of large 
halls, the glittering weapons being foi^med in 
every design imaginable. In one long gallery, 
there are wooden horses in full plate armor, as 
large as life, on which are seated figures of 
knights and nobles, also in full armor, as if ready 
for battle. In many instances the squire, simi- 
larly encased, stands at his master's side. The 
effect on first entering this hall, -with all these 
knights arranged as if in battle array, and armed 
to the teeth, is quite startling. Then there are 
suits of steel and chain armor that once belonged 
to English kings, and sj)ecimens of antique and 
foreign weapons. In one apartment are thumb- 
screws, racks, instruments of torture, and the 
block and axe used for the execution of the two 
wives of Henry VIII. and Lady Jane Grey. We 
thought of the golden canopy drawn by many 
horses covered with white damask, under which 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 209 

poor Anne Boleyn was seated when taken to the 
Tower in grand procession, a beautiful young 
bride, cou3:ted and caressed. In less than four 
years, that fair young head lay upon the bloody 
block before us. We found much to make us 
shudder in the Tower, and much to make us re- 
joice that those days of tyranny were over. We 
were shown the room which for many centuries 
was used for state prisoners, with inscriptions still 
remaining upon its walls, made by its various 
heart-broken inmates — the tower in which the 
Princess Elizabeth was imprisoned, and the 
octagonal room in which Sir Walter Raleigh was 
confined for twelve years, with his bed-room ex- 
cavated in the prison wall, which is here seven- 
teen feet thick. Here he wrote his " History of 
the World," and from here he went to the block, 
saying, " It matters not how a man's head lies, so 
that his heart is right." The man in the croAvd 
seems to have spoken the truth, who said, when 
Baleigh's head fell from his shoulders, "We 
have not such another head to cut off." 

Of course, among the wonders of the Tower, we 

peeped at the Crown Jewels, after being locked 

in the room before we were allowed to do so. 

They are placed in a large glass case in the centre 

14 



210 THE OLD WORLD 

of the room, and an iron railing prevents any 
person from coming too near them . They can be 
seen, however, without any difficulty, and the 
display was very fine, comprising some of the 
crowns worn by the kings and queens of past 
generations, and that of the present queen, which 
is composed of purple velvet, enclosed by hoops 
of silver, and studded with diamonds, rubies and 
sapphires. As it weighs a pound and three- 
quarters, it is not strange that the queen seldom 
wears it. 

The famous Ko-ih-noor, or mountain -of- 
light diamond, is also in the case, with many 
other gems and articles of value — among them, 
the silver gilt baptismal font, in which some of 
the royal babies have been baptized. We have 
taken great pleasure in seeking out the sj)ots so 
interesting to an American, associated with the 
great and good who have jjassed away, with 
whose names we are so familiar. The old 
churches, too, are full of interest to us, and we 
feel that London has a dignity peculiarly its own. 
It is not so gay as the continental cities we have 
just left, but is solid, substantial, and elegant, 
and the more one sees of it, the more one ad- 
mires it. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 211 

Leamington, September 14. 

We tarried a few lioui*s at Oxford on our way 
here, and although we had not time to visit the 
twenty colleges and five halls, which constitute 
the University, we were able to see the most 
famous of them all, Christ College, which owes 
its origin to Cardinal Wolsey. In the chapel, 
which is also the cathedral church of the bishop- 
ric of Oxford, are some ancient and curious mon- 
uments, and the chui'ch itself is a most quaint 
specimen of a past age. The dining-hall, said 
to be the finest in the kingdom, is decorated 
with an extensive collection of portraits, and the 
library is very rich in manuscripts, prints and 
coins. Everything looked old and quaint, but it 
was so weU kept, and in such perfect order, that 
it was a great pleasure to roam about through 
the different courts and corridors, and over the 
green lawns. We drove to the Theatre, where 
degrees are conferred — an immense building with 
galleries, which was designed by Sir Christopher 
Wren. 

It is here that the students make merry on 
"commemoration day," and take such hberties 
with the dignitaries assembled there — last year 
saying to Mr. Tennyson when he walked in, 



212 THE OLD WORLD 

dressed somewhat carelessly, " Did your mother 
call you early, Mr. Tennyson?" Degrees are 
conferred here ; and many, like Robert Southey, 
have been "EU eU deed," after being called 
"many laudatory names endiag in issimus." 

The view of Oxford and its surroundings, from 
the top of the theatre, quite repaid us for the 
ascent, and we afterwards drove to the rivers Isis 
and Churwell, on which Oxford is situated, and 
saw the gayly-painted crafts which make the 
boat races there so famous. The Martyrs' Me- 
morial also interested us very much, standing as 
it does upon the spot where Cranmer, Ridley and 
Latimer met their fate with such wonderful 
serenity — the former holding the hand which had 
unwillingly signed a recantation of his principles, 
over the flames, saying, " Oh, this unworthy hand 
■ — this imworthy hand!" The monument was 
erected by public subscription in eighteen hun- 
dred and forty-one, and there are statues of the 
martyi'S standrag in niches upon it. The iuscrip- 
tion says that " they yielded their bodies to be 
burned, rejoicing that to them it was given, not 
only to beheve in Christ, but also to suffer for 
his sake." 

We have been most comfortably situated at the 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 213 

Regent's Hotel in Leamington, and liave found 
the drives in this lovely Warwickshire very de- 
hghtful. Hearing that the Earl of Warwick was 
expected the night of our arrival, and that it 
would be impossible to gain an entrance into the 
castle during his residence there, we drove to it 
almost immediately. The grand old castle, situ- 
ated on a rock washed by the river Avon, is veiy 
magnificent, and we stroUed through its long 
suites of apartments adorned with valuable paint- 
ings, rich furniture, vases, statues, and all sorts 
of beautiful and costly things, not knowing which 
to admire most, the wonderful collection within, 
or the glorious views seen without, from each 
window. The grand entrance haU, which is sixty- 
two feet long, and forty wide, has a floor of 
pohshed marble, and a celling of beautifully 
carved oak. It is hung with shining suits of 
armor, great branching horns of deer, and has a 
deep, wide chimney, where we could fancy the 
Yule log burning at gay Christmas gatherings, 
while the wassail cup passed merrily round. We 
lingered under the magnificent oaks and cedars 
in the grounds, saw the beautiful antique vase 
found near Hadrian's villa at Tivoli, which holds 
one hundi-ed and sixty-eight gallons — and again 



214 THE OLD WORLD 

passed through the long, wide passage cut in the 
rock, lined with ivy and flowers, through which 
we entered the grounds of the castle. Here we 
saw, in the porter's lodge, the armor of Guj of 
Warwick, the gigantic man who carried a sword 
seven feet long, and .weighing twenty pounds, 
and wore helmet, shield and breast-plate, to 
match. His porridge-pot, which holds one hun- 
di-ed and two gallons, and from which it is 
said he was accustomed to take his food, is filled 
with punch on grand occasions, and distributed 
to the tenantry. 

We left the castle carrying in our minds pic- 
tures of beauty not soon forgotten. Among 
the paintings upon the walls, the grand portrait 
of Charles I. by Vandyke, which hangs by itself at 
the end of a narrow hall, impressed us most. 
From Warwick we drove to Kenilworth, once a 
lordly structure, and now a beautiful and pic- 
turesque ruin. We wandered among its yet 
unleveUed walls and towers covered with ivy, 
and thought of the visit of Queen Bess in fifteen 
hundred and seventy-five, when she entered in 
grand procession, escorted by her favorite Earl 
of Leicester, and followed by her brilliant court. 
During the seventeen days of her visit, what a 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 215 

scene of revelry must that castle bave been — • 
eaeli day having its special sports. Hunting, 
dancing, bear-baiting, Italian tumblers, donkey- 
racing, tnting, &c., to say nothing of eating and 
drinking, were constantly going on. Now these 
magnificent fetes are over, and solemn-looking 
rooks are the principal dwellers here. " Where 
princes feasted and heroes fought, all is now 
desolate," yet very lovely in its desolation. 

Our drive to Stratford on Avon was over a 
pleasant road, and we found it a pretty country 
town, quiet and sunny, with many new, modern- 
looking buildings in it which denote a present 
prosperity, while there are still a large number 
of quaint, moss-grown houses, which seem to 
belong to the far away past. It took us, indeed, 
far into the past, to tread the very pavements 
once trodden by Shakspeare, and to walk across 
the fields over which he had so often walked, in 
his early manhood, to visit his beloved Anne 
Hathaway. The old waUs and dilapidated roof 
of the cottage still remain, and we stood in the 
immense fire-place and sat upon a worm-eaten 
settle on which we were told the lovers used to 
sit. But there are few things in the cottage con- 
nected either with the poet or his wife, although 



216 THE OLD WORLD 

it is now occupied by a lineal descendant of the 
Hathaways. We were glad that the walk to 
Shottery was by a simple foot-path, and that we 
were compelled occasionally to cross a stile, for 
it all seemed to harmonize with one's poetic 
memories of Shakspeare. We could imagine the 
boy of eighteen, running merrily over the very 
path we were treading to " tell his love " to the 
fair one, who, after all, did not make him very 
happy. The old, unpretending house, with its 
three rooms, the front one having been a butcher's 
shop, where Shakspeare was born, is still kept as 
it was, with the exception of some necessary 
repairs. A narrow flight of winding, wooden 
stairs, leads into a low chamber, with one window 
looking out upon the quiet street, in. which the 
greatest of all poets first saw the hght of Heaven, 
The room is small and simple, yet the humble 
and great of all nations have there met to do 
homage to genius. Its walls, and the albums 
kept there, bear the names of the noblest in rank 
and talent that the world has seen. 

For a century and a half after the poet's death, 
the house remaiued the property of private in- 
dividuals ; but it is now owned by the nation, and 
the garden and grounds iu the rear have been 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 217 

made very attractive with trees, shrubs and 
flowers. 

From the first home of Shakspeare we walked 
through the quiet streets to the pictiu'esque old 
church on the banks of the Avon, where he was 
laid to his rest. The entrance is through a beau- 
tiful avenue of Hme trees, the branches forming 
an arch overhead, and the church contains many 
gorgeous monuments, but the simple bust over a 
doorway in the chancel representing the poet 
writing upon a cushion, is more attractive than 
all. It is painted to resemble life — the eyes being 
a light hazel, the hair and beard auburn, the 
doublet scarlet, and the gown, without sleeves, 
black. His death in sixteen hundred and sixteen, 
and his age, fifty-three, are inscribed beneath the 
bust, while over the rough free-stone slab in the 
chancel, which covers his dust, are the famous 
lines which have kept the spot sacred fi-om in- 
trusion so long. We lingered a long time at this 
" pilgrim shrine," and then returned to the Ked 
Horse Inn, which has been immortahzed by our 
own countryman. We were shown iato a parlor, 
over the door of which, " Washington Irving's 
parlor " was painted in large letters, and an iron 
poker was brought us, carefully treasured up 



218 THE OLD WOELD 

in a crimson velvet bag, on wlaicli was engraved 
" Geoffrey Crayon " — ^it being the one wMcli he 
used when there. It was pleasant to find our 
great prose writer remembered in the home of 
the great poet. 

On our return to Leamington we drove by 
Charlecote HaU, which is about four miles from 
Stratford, and the scene of Shakspeare's trial for 
poaching. The house is a quaint old building in 
the EUzabethan style, and the parks filled with 
grand old trees, under which we saw immense 
herds of deers, showing that a taste for these 
pretty, graceful creatui'es still exists in the Lucy 
family. "We also drove through the beautiful 
grounds of Stoneleigh Abbey, the country seat of 
Lord Leigh, charmingly situated on a sloping 
bank of the Avon, where we saw some ivy-man- 
tled remains of the old abbey which was founded 
in eleven hundred and fifty-four. 

Leamington, although one of the most fashion- 
able watering-places in England, is delightfully 
quiet, and it is difficult to beheve that it is a 
place of great resort. It is pleasantly situated on 
the river Learn, and the streets wide, clean and 
handsomely built up. The beautiful grounds of 
the Jephson gardens, the noble gift of the benevo- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 219 

lent Dr. Jephson himself, are very attractive, 
being very spacious, and laid out -with great 
taste. There are terraces, walks winding by the 
river, and miniature lake — a shadowy grove, open 
spaces for croquet and archery — flowers, summer- 
houses and rustic arbors — swans on the lake, a 
band of music in summer, and skating in the win- 
ter. Truly, as Mr. Hawthorn says, " Leamington 
seems always to be in flower, and serves as a home 
for the homeless all the year round." We did 
not find many persons in the pump-room in the 
morning, and when we had tasted the beverage we 
were not surprised. 

Birmingham, 
■ We have remained long enough in this smoky 
city to become somewhat initiated in the process 
of manufactiu'ing some of the articles for which 
the town is famous. The beautiful papier mache 
manufacture, which commences with a coarse 
piece of paper, and by putting several thicknesses 
together and polishing, rubbing and painting, 
becomes an exquisite piece of furniture, interested 
us very much. Then we saw the electroplating, 
which speedily turns a common-looking article 
into something so like gold and silver, that it is 
impossible to detect the difference. Afterwards 



220 THE OLD WORLD 

we went to the wonderful steel-pen maniifactory 
of Joseph Gillott, and were astonished beyond 
measure to see how many hands a steel pen went 
through before it was finished, and how large 
and extensive Mr. Gillott's factories are. He 
gives employment to many hundred persons, and 
we were glad to see the workmen in pleasant, 
well-ventilated, and well-lighted rooms. 

Peacock Inn, Derbyshire. 
We are at the most perfect specimen of an old 
English inn that can be imagined ; the favorite 
resort, as it may well be, of artists and anglers, 
and all who enjoy the picturesque and beautiful. 
The house itself, with its gabled roof, clustering 
chimneys, ivy-clad porch, and vine of brilliant 
berries, entirely covering the front, deserves the 
name of " pride of the village " — while its situation 
in a pretty garden, with a stream of water 
pattering over the pebbles at the foot, and an 
arched stone bridge near, is charming. The 
historic associations of olden time are manifest 
as one approaches the doorway, over which is 
the carved figure of an expanded peacock, the 
crest of the Manners' family. Below it are the 
inysterious letters 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 221 

lOHNSTE 

VENSON 

16 53. 

which probably mean that one John Stevenson 
was once the fortmiate proprietor of this estab- 
lishment. 

Mr. Longfellow, who was here a few days ago, 
was very loth to leave this lovely spot, and we 
can fully appreciate his regret. It is a place to 
tarry in for weeks — not days. The scenery is 
charmingly picturesque, and we have greatly en- 
joyed our drives to Haddon HaU and Chatsworth; 
the former place taking us back to the old feu- 
dal times, and the latter showing the magnificence 
of the present. Haddon Hall is a complete 
picture of an ancient baronial residence, beauti- 
fully situated on an eminence on the east side of 
the river Wye, and as its ivy-clad towers rise 
majestically above the wood-crowned lulls, the 
ejffect is very grand and imposing. For a century 
and a half, it has been occupied only by those 
who have the care of it, but it is kept in perfect 
repair, and is wholly unaltered since the days 
when it was a constant scene of hospitaUty and 
revelry. The kitchen is immense, having two fire- 
places, each large enough to roast an ox whole, 



222 THE OLD WOKLD 

while there are double ranges of dressers, and 
irons for a multitude of spits. Large chopping 
blocks, and a massive wooden table hollowed out 
into basins for kneading-troughs, show that the 
seven score of servants formerly employed here 
were kept busy. The banqueting hall has a 
music gallery over the entrance, and at the 
opposite end of the room is the raised floor or 
dais, where the master of the house sat with hia 
more distinguished guests, above the salt, which 
always occupied the centre of the board. Persons 
of inferior degree were stationed beloiv the salt, 
thus denoting their rank. "We were shown an 
iron handcuff, still chained to the wall, in which 
it was customary to lock the wrist of any guest 
who refused to take his portion of Hquor. By 
this contrivance the hand was fastened very high 
above the head, and while in that position a 
quantity of cold water was poured down the 
sleeve of the unfortimate victim. Pleasant way 
that of making a man convivial ! There is still 
another dining-room, which was fitted up, when 
it became less customary for the lord of the man- 
sion to dine with his dependents. This was built 
in fifteen hundred and forty-five, and over the 
fire-place is a panel with the motto underneath 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 223 

** Drede God and honour the Kyng." "We were 
shown, numerous rooms in this most interesting 
place, and all the principal ones were hung with 
loose arraSj much of which remains. The doors 
were concealed behind the hangings, but there 
were great iron hooks by which the tapestry 
could be held back, to avoid the necessity of 
lifting it up every time, when passing in and out. 
In one of the bed-chambers is preserved the 
once magnificent state bed, on which royal per- 
sonages have often slept — George IV. having 
been the last occupant. The bed is richly deco- 
rated with green velvet, hned with white satin, and 
the now tattered canopy and hangings ai-e said to 
have been embroidered in the reign of Henry VI. 
by Eleanor, the wife of Sir Kobert Manners. 
The chapel is a most curious relic, showing dis- 
tinctly by its architecture, that it was erected at 
different periods, and that personal comfort 
connected with religious worship, was unthought 
of in those days. The chapel contains some 
painted glass more than four centuries old, and 
on one window is an inscription in black-letter 
characters, suggesting a prayer for the souls of 
Richard Vernon and Benedicita his wife, by whom 
it was erected in foui'teen hundred and twenty- 



224 THE OLD WORLD 

seven. As we left this most remarkable of all 
the ancient houses in the kingdom, we saw, in 
one of the gardens belonging to the estabhsh- 
ment, some very curious specimens of an art now 
almost out of use — the peculiar training and 
clipping of trees and shrubs to represent various 
figures. There was one clump of shrubbery cut 
to resemble a peacock, which was very perfect— 
the bill, crest and tail being complete. 

From Haddon Hall we drove to Chatsworth, 
the " Palace of the Peak," which forms a strik- 
ing contrast to the sombre aspect of the old 
baronial mansion we had just left, it being one 
of the "stately homes of England " of compara- 
tively modem date, and in perfect repair. We 
drove a long distance through the park, with its 
glorious old trees, and herds of deer, until we 
reached the porter's lodge, with its three wrought 
iron, richl}' gilt gates. There we entered the 
court which leads to the great hall, a spacious 
and noble apartment, with a mosaic floor of 
black and white marble, and columns of beauti- 
ful Derbyshire spar. Over the fire-place is a 
tablet with the inscription, "These well-loved 
ancestral halls, founded in the year of English 
freedom, 1688, William Spencer, Duke of Devon- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 225 

shire, inherited in 1811, and perfected in the 
year of sorrow, 1840." The "year of sorrow " re- 
fers to the death of his wife. 

We were conducted through apartments, with 
carved wainscoting, splendidly painted ceilings, 
inlaid oaken floors, exquisite statues, magnificent 
vases, long galleries of paintings and sculptures, 
until we were quite overpowered with the com- 
bination of genius, taste and skill. 

Afterwards we walked about the grounds near 
the house, which are laid out with surjDassing 
taste in every variety of landscape gardening. 
Immense rocks have been brought from a con- 
siderable distance, to make a formation of grotto 
work, having all the appearance of nature. Then 
there are fountains, artificial ponds, cascades, and 
a remarkable weeping willow, presenting all the 
appearance, in copper, of a living tree, which, 
on touching a spring, sends forth a shower of 
water from sprigs, leaves and roots. It is said 
that Queen Victoria (then Princess), after a visit 
to the Duke of Devonshire in eighteen hundred 
and thirty-two, when asked what she admired 
most at Chatsworth, replied, "the squirting 
tree!" "We found the oak planted at that time 
by her youthful hands tall and thriving, and the 
15 



226 THE OLD WOELD 

American chestnut whicli her illustrious mother, 
the Duchess of Kent placed in the ground on the 
same occasion, also in vigorous condition. 

The conservatory, which has a passage in the 
centre large enough to drive a carriage through, 
and is covered by seventy-six thousand square 
feet of glass, contains the most rare and beauti- 
ful plants to be found, and an aquarium where 
water plants are raised in perfection. But with 
all the splendors within, and beauties vsdthout, 
the Duke of Devonshire only resides in this 
charming place a few weeks every year, having 
so many other residences which claim his atten- 
tion. Truly, an " embarras des richesses." No- 
thing can be imagined more beautiful than the 
park, which is nine miles in circumference, and 
diversified with hill and dale. 

York, September 17. 

"We reached this ancient city late last evening, 
and rose very early this morning to walk about 
the old walls, which have stood so firmly for 
centuries, and are still in a very perfect state 
They are three miles in circumference, and have 
a delightful promenade on the top, which com- 
mands a beautiful prospect not only of the sur- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 227 

roimding country, but the Minster, and Clif- 
ford's Tower, which was the old keep of the 
castle. 

We felt quite like "pilgrims and strangers," 
as we took our early morning stroll, with the 
city so quiet beneath us — the " hum of multi- 
tudes astir," not having yet commenced. Fortu- 
nately, we found a verger who kindly admitted 
us into the magnificent cathedral, and we greatly 
enjoyed the early morning light upon it, and 
the sun shedding its rising beams upon the 
gorgeous stained glass east window of the Lady 
chapel, which has been called the "wonder of 
the world, both for masonry and glazing." We 
wandered about among the gigantic columns, 
and through the transept, nave, and beautiful 
choir, trying to comprehend the grandeur of 
this wondrous structure, but its magnificence 
was quite bewildering. So many hundred years 
have been spent in beautifying and perfecting it, 
that nothing seems wanting now. 

Some of the old monuments are very peculiar. 
One of them is to the memory of Archbishop 
de Grey, who died in twelve hundred and fifty- 
five, and consists of a canopy, supported by black 
marble columns eight feet liigh. On a fiat tomb 



228 THE OLD WOKLD 

under the canopy, is an effigy of the Archbishop 
in his pontifical robes. 

But the splendors and beauties of this remark- 
able cathedral are endless, and we regretted that 
we could not go again and again, to enjoy, and 
wonder, and worship. 

The ruins of St. Mary's Abbey, which was 
formerly a powerful monastic institution, found- 
ed in the time of William the Conqueror, are 
extremely pretty, although comparatively small. 
It was surrendered to Henry VIII. in fifteen 
hundred and forty, during the reformation, and 
there were then fifty monks in the establishment, 
enjoying its beauty and luxury. 

Melrose, Scotland. 

This pleasant village, picturesquely situated, 
as it is, on the Tweed, and at the base of the 
Eildon Hills, would have a charm in itself, but 
the elegant and graceful remains of its Abbey, so 
famous in romance and poetry, add greatly to 
its interest. 

We are at the George Hotel, where an excel- 
lent portrait of Washington greeted us, as we 
entered the dining-room, and made us feel quite 
at home, at once. 

We soon sought the beautiful ruins which have 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 229 

brought us here, and can, in some measure, ima- 
gine the ancient magnificence of this celebrated 
monastery, as it retains so much of its architec- 
tural splendor and sculptured beauty now, from 
the fact that the red sandstone of which it was 
built, has resisted the weather for ages — the 
minute ornaments are as entire as when newly 
wrought. When one remembers that it dates 
back as far as eleven hundred and thirty-six, and 
was destroyed in the sixteenth century, it seems 
indeed, wonderfully preserved. 

We wandered about, enjoying the beautiful 
views at every point — the glorious windows, 
carvings, and tracery, and regretted that for us 
there was no "pale moonlight" in which to see 
it in still greater perfection. Still, we did not 
find that 

" the gay beams of lightsome day 
Gild, but to flout, the ruins gray." 

We have made a deeply interesting visit to 
Abbotsford ; driving through a pleasant, pictu- 
resque country, all of which seemed associated 
with the " great magician." On our way there, 
from Melrose, we made a little detour, and drove 
through the grounds of Chiefswood, where Mr. 
and Mrs. Lockhart once resided, and where Sir 



230 THE OLD WOKLD 

Walter Scott so frequently took refuge, when he 
desired quiet. The prattling brook, and shady 
lane, by which the grounds are entered, recalled 
him, and his visits to the cheerful home of his 
beloved daughter, and we could imagine him 
seated on that porch, with his darling grand- 
child, John Hugh Lockhart at his knee. " Hunt- 
ley Burn," too, where his friends, the Fergussons, 
used to welcome him, was near at hand, and we 
looked with deep interest upon the place where 
had once resided those whom he so tenderly 
loved. "A haj)pier circle, (says Lockhart,) never 
met — but now those bright eyes are forever 
closed in dust — those gay voices forever silent." 

"We found Abbotsford lying low on the banks 
of the Tweed, and hidden from the road by 
trees. The house is a picturesque and curious 
structure, and the effect is very striking, 
although it is by no means so spacious as the 
pictures represent. The entrance hall is tastefully 
hung with armor, antlers, weapons, and many 
interesting relics — among them, the keys of 
the old Tolbooth prison in Edinburgh. 

Then, in other rooms, there are pictures — 
some vei\y rare and valuable — one of them, a 
head of Mary Queen of Scots, after her execution, 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 231 

is an original, and Sir Walter Scott would never 
suffer a copy to be taken. There is also a 
grotesque picture of Queen Elizabeth in fancy 
costume, which is anything but flattering. The 
family portraits interested us more than any- 
thing else, and we were shown several of the 
poet, taken at different times, those of his early 
boyhood looking wonderfully like those taken in 
his manhood. 

There are portraits of Lady Scott and Mrs. 
Lockhart — a lovely picture of Miss Anne Scott, 
a bright-eyed brunette ; and a full length like- 
ness of the last Sir Walter — a tall, handsome 
young man in uniform. There is also a curious 
portrait of Sir Walter's great gi-andfather, who 
allowed his full beard to grow after the execution 
of Charles I. 

The library contains several thousand volumes, 
carefully protected by an iron grating. In this 
room is the bust of Scott by Chantrey, full of life 
and expression. There are also a number of 
ebony chairs presented to Sir Walter by George 
TV. The room adjoining was his private room, 
or study, with the chair remaining in the posi- 
tion in which he sat, and the desk at which he 
wrote. The walls of the room are lined with 



232 THE OLD WORLD 

books, with a small gallery running arotind tlie 
■whole, and a private staircase by which he came 
from his bed, or dressing-room, at pleasure. 
When he told the Duchess of St. Albans that ho 
could come into his room by this private wa}', 
and work and write as much as he pleased 
" without any one's being the wiser for it," she 
replied, " that is impossible " — a complimeiit 
both graceful and true. 

In a glass case are preserved the clothes Sir 
Walter last wore — the broad-skirted blue coat 
with large buttons, the trowsers of shepherd's 
]3laid, the heavy shoes, the broad-brimmed white 
hat, and stout walking-stick, all looked so much 
as if they were to be worn again, and made his 
presence seem so recent, that one involuntarily 
spoke low, and glanced towards the door at 
which he used to enter. 

The drawing-room is a lovely apartment, with 
a large bay window looking out upon the Tweed, 
and the hills opposite. Here, surrounded by his 
children, his great heart ceased to beat on the 
twenty-first of September, eighteen hundred and 
thirty-two. A short time before, he had asked 
to be wheeled about his rooms, and this was 
done for an hour or more, while he said again 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 233 

and again, " I have seen mucli, but nothing like 
my ain house," Then was read to him from 
the " one book " to which he desired to listen, 
"Let not your heart be troubled. In my Fa- 
ther's house are many mansions — I go to prepare 
a place for you." So with those sweet words of 
comfort in his ear, and "God bless you all," upon 
his lips, he breathed his last. 

"It was a beautiful day," says Lockhart, — "so 
warm that every window was wide open, and so 
perfectly still, that the sound of all others most 
delicious to his ear, the gentle ripple of the 
Tweed over its pebbles, was distinctly audible, as 
we knelt around his bed, and his eldest son 
kissed, and closed his eyes." 

As we stood, in silence, by that open vrindow, 
with the Tweed still rippling over its pebbly bed, 
it seemed hardly possible that thirty-six years had 
passed away since that most touching scene 
occurred, on that very spot. 

From Abbotsford, we dfove to Dryburgh 
Abbey, the picturesque and ivy-grown ruin, 
where, in the burial-ground of his ancestors, the 
HaHburtons, Sir "Walter is buried. It lies off the 
pubhc road, in the midst of noble trees — among 
them some grand old yews — one of which is said 



234 THE OLD WORLD 

to be of the same age as the Abbey, which dates 
back to eleven hundred and fifty. Columns, 
arches and windows stiU remain to show that the 
structure must once have been of great size and 
architectural beauty, while the ivy creeping all 
over the waUs, and covering tliem with a thicli 
matting of shining foHage, or hanging in graceful 
festoons, only makes the ruin still more beautiful. 
Beneath one of the arches of St. Mary's aisle, 
enclosed by an iron railing, lie the remains of 
Sir Walter Scott. A simple granite slab, raised 
two feet from the ground, with his name and the 
date of his death, is placed over his grave. On 
each side, are the tombs of his wife and son, the 
late Sir Walter, and at his feet lie the remains of 
John Gibson Lockhart. It is a calm, lovely 
spot — silent and solemn — and seems a fitting 
burial-place for one whose genius has given such 
life to all these memorials of departed centuries, 
and who, in the midst of his glory, suffered and 
sorrowed so deeply. 

There is no bridge over the Tweed near the 
Abbey, and we were rowed over in a skiff, which 
is the only mode of crossing the river. The man 
told us that there had been nearly eleven thou- 
sand visitors to Dryburgh during the summer. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 235 

Edinburgh, September 22 
Our stay of several days in this strangely 
picturesque and weird-looking town, has been 
somewhat marred by almost constant rain, or 
genuine Scotch mist, which has made aU the dis- 
tant views quite indistinct. Yet there have been 
times, when Arthur's Seat and the SaHsbury Crags 
liave stood out in all their beauty and grandeur, 
whUe the quaint old town itself is full of interest, 
even in a drizzling rain. 

Certainly, never was there a more curious 
place than " Auld Keekie," with its old and new 
town, separated by a broad and deep ravine. 
The old city still has its narrow streets, inter- 
sected by closes and loynds, (that is, lanes and 
alleys,) and tumble down houses from six to ten 
stories high, in which the population is so im- 
mense, that the houses overflow into the streets 
and sidewalks, making it a matter of skill to get 
safely through the crowd, sometimes. 

The new town wears a very different aspect ; 
having wide streets, handsome shops, elegant 
mansions, fashionable hotels, pubHc squares, 
monuments and statues. In front of our Hotel 
is the beautiful Gothic monument erected to the 
memory of Su' Walter Scott, which is two hun- 



236 THE OLD WOBLD 

dred feet high, and contains the noble statue of 
the poet by Chantrey, represented in a sitting 
posture, draped in a plaid, with his faithful dog 
at his feet ; while in various niches are sculp- 
tured impersonations of the characters portrayed 
in his writings. One could not but think of the 
sonnet of one of our own poets, in looking upon 
the beautiful structure. 

••'Tis said that 'mid the Alps and Pyrenees, 
And other lofty mountains, and in groves, 
And hidden places where the bandit roves, 
Uptowering piles of stones the traveller sees 
That mark the spot where some have fallen and died : 
For them these shapless monuments are reared, 
And, though to none who passes by endeared. 
Each fi-om his journey ings wiU turn aside 
To cast his mite upon the rising moles, 
And guard the memory of the lost unknown : 
In this a deep, strong sentiment is shown — 

A kindred for the dead in Uving souls. 
If such, oh, world-renowned, thy grave could be, 
An Alp would rise, a monument to thee !" 

The royal castle on the brow of a precipice is 
a confused pile of buildings of different ages, and 
dates so far back that its origin is clouded in 
obscurity, but it is full of historical and roman- 
tic interest. The plain, sombre apartments in 
the most ancient part of the castle were occu- 
pied by Queen Mary ; and in a small dressing- 



SEEN "WITH YOUNG EYES. 237 

room, James VI., in whom the crowns of England 
and Scotland were united, was born. Over the 
door there is a curious inscription in black 
letter, commemorating the event, and invoking 
blessings on the child. 

One shudders in looking out of the little win- 
dow, upon the precipice beneath, where, when 
only eight days old, the future monarch was let 
down in a basket, to be conveyed to a place of 
greater safety, by friends who were waiting at 
the foot of the rocks. We looked at the regaUa 
with great interest, from the fact that the crown, 
sceptre, and sword of state, were for a long time 
hidden in an old oak chest, and that they were 
connected with great historical events for years. 
In themselves, they are of comparatively little 
value. 

From the ramparts of the castle, we had a 
superb view of the town and its surroundings, 
and saw the gigantic piece of artillery, called 
Mons Meg — a cannon cast in the early part of 
fifteen hundred, and named after the man who 
cast it, and his wife, Meg. In sixteen hundred 
and eighty-two, it burst, when firing a salute for 
the Duke of York, and has not been used since. 

Holyrood Palace, although neither grand nor 



288 THE OLD WORLD 

beautiful in itself, has so many historical and 
deeply tragic associations connected with it, that 
it is impossible not to feel awed when within its 
walls. "We made a hasty visit to the picture 
gallery, which contains portraits of royal and 
eminent Scotch personages, but the paintings are 
extremely poor, and not considered genuine. 
Then we entered the apartments of the unfortu- 
nate Queen, which are preserved as they were 
•when occupied by her, with the very same tapes- 
try, hangings, and much of the same furniture. 
The bed, with its velvet canopy, tattered and 
time-worn, with a piece of one of the blankets, 
about a foot square upon it, stands as it did 
when her lovely limbs reposed upon it. The 
mirror too, which had so often given back the 
reflection of her beautiful face, hangs upon the 
wall, and her work-table, and some articles of 
her toilette are stiU there. The little room in 
which the queen sat at supper with David Rizzio, 
on the night of his mui'der, adjoins the sleeping 
apartment, and a private staircase leads to it, 
from the chapel below, up which the assassins 
came and made those fifty-six wounds, which 
forever stained the floor of the ante-chamber 
where Rizzio lay all night. In the little supper- 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 239 

room, is a glass altar-piece, a painting of the 
Virgin Mary, which has a huge crack in the 
centre, said to have been made by the fist of 
John Knox, when remonstrating very earnestly 
with the Queen on the error of her ways. 

The ruins of the chapel of Holyrood Abbey, 
show that it must have been a magnificent 
edifice ; but it has a dreary look now, and is only 
used as a burial-place for illustrious persons — 
some of the former kings of Scotland having been 
buried there. In the roofless choir, the altar 
stood, before which the beautiful Mary and Lord 
Darnley were united in an unfortunate marriage. 

We greatly enjoyed a drive to Calton Hill one 
day, from which we had charming views of the 
entire town, country, frith and sea. There is an 
observatory on its summit, and monuments to 
Nelson, Playfair and Dugald Stewart. Near it 
are seen the monuments of Hume and Burns. 
Afterwards we drove through the curious streets 
to the quaint old house of John Knox, and to the 
house in Castle Street where Sir Walter Scott 
lived several years before he built Abbotsford. 
In the Greyfriars churchyard we found many 
very interesting monuments, and some odd 
epitaphs in memory of the Covenanters. 



240 THE OLD WORLD 

Ediaburgh abounds in charitable institutions, 
and we Tisited with pleasure, the " Trades Maiden 
Hospital," where the daughters of worthy trades- 
people ai'e educated and cared for. We fouud 
it delightfully situated in the midst of pretty 
grounds, with a matron whose sweet voice and 
charming Scotch accent were quite fascinating. 
Everything seemed to be sensibly, kindly and 
pleasantly arranged for the inmates, who are 
here thoroughly prepared to fill various positions 
in life. 

We have had the pleasure of hearing the Kev. 
Horatius Bonar preach. The sermon was rather 
fragmentary, but a clear presentation of the doc- 
trine of the personality, divinity and offices of 
the Holy Spirit. His manner is very peculiar, 
at first slow and drawling, and afterwards quite 
animated. He rests his body upon the cushion 
of the pulpit, and very seldom stands upright. 
It was pleasant to look upon the author of 
those beautiful " Hymns of Faith and Hope," and 
afterwards to meet him at his own hospitable 
board, where we also met the mother of the 
sainted Mary Lundie Duncan. 

The churches are well filled here, and the con- 
gregations most attentive ; young and old, Bible 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 241 

■ in hand, always turning to tlie texts quoted by 
the preacher during his sermon. All join in the 
singing, and if the music is not artistic, it is at 
least more like worship, than if performed by a 
hired quartette. On Sunday evening we heard 
some street preaching which gathered a large and 
well-behaved crowd, many of whom remained 
standing a long time to listen. 

Stirling. 

On our way to this town, so dehghtfuUy situ- 
ated on the River Forth, we passed Linlithgow 
Palace, an ancient ruin placed upon an eminence 
near the lake where Mary Queen of Scots was 
born on the seventh of December, fifteen hun- 
dred and forty-two. 

Stirling Castle is grandly situated on the brow 
of a precipitous rock. The view from the walls is 
most extensive and magnificent, comprising the 
highland mountains Ben Lomond, Ben Ledi, and 
numerous other Bens, in one direction ; while 
nearer, is a richly cultivated country, with the 
rivers Forth, Frith and AUan forming the most 
beautiful curves, and visible for miles, winding 
among woods and hills. On one of these latter is 
a fine monument to Sir WiUiam Wallace, two 
hundred and fifty feet high. The once bloody 
16 



242 THE OLD WOKLD 

battle-fields of Falkirk, Cambuskennetli and 
Bannockburn are in fuU view, and the castle of 
Edinburgh is seen on the horizon, far away. To 
add to our enjoyment, the noble Forty-second 
regiment, which gained such renown in the 
Crimea, came out to drill soon after we entered 
the castle grounds, and the bagpipes, warlike 
music, and wonderful evolutions of these splen- 
did-looking men in their Highland costume, made 
the whole scene most enchanting. 

We were much favored in being escorted about 
the castle by a soldier belonging to the Forty- 
second regiment, who, although a young man, 
had been ten years in India, and two or three 
in the Crimea. He wore many badges, show- 
ing in what battles he had fought, but that which 
had the highest value in his estimation, was the 
one which the government had given him for 
bravery. While walking about, we saw several 
soldiers undergoing punishment for desertion. 
The punishment consisted in picking up and 
carrying cannon-balls from one point to another, 
about ten feet. They had done this for an hour 
at a time, at brief intervals, for many days. We 
quite agreed with our pleasant guide, that it was 
a senseless kind of punishment, and it would be 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 243 

much better to make them do something use- 
ful. 

Mary Qaeen of Scots was crowned at Stirling-, 
and James VI. was educated here. Indeed, the 
castle is connected with the history of Scotland 
for many centuries. We were shown the tower 
room where James II. assassinated William, Earl 
of Douglas, on account of his defiance of his 
authority. 

"The tower within whose circuit dread 
A Douglas, by his sovereign bled." 

An incident occurred while we were in this 
room, which amused us very much. Among the 
visitors was a well-dressed gentleman, whom the 
woman who has charge of the room took to be 
Lord Napier of Magdala, for some reason or 
other. So the good old soul was wonderfully 
elated by the idea that she was receiving the hero 
of Abyssinia. In the mean time, the gentleman 
walked about with his wife, in the most unpre- 
tending manner possible, while the woman's face 
beamed with smiles, courtesying to the very 
ground whenever she was addressed, and con- 
tinually using the words " my lady " and " yom* 
ladyship," when addressed by the lady. She also 
informed them that she had had the honor of 



244 THE OLD WOELD 

receiving the Queen, and the Prince of Wales. 
Of course, our own humble party were quite 
thrown in the shade, and for a few moments we 
all thought we were in the presence of the great 
warrior. We were soon undeceived, however, and 
left the place wondering how the beaming woman 
would feel when she heard that she had dis- 
pensed all those fascinating smiles upon plain 

Mr. S , of London ! 

On leaving the castle we visited the old Grey- 
friars churchyard, where are monuments to some 
of the Keformers, and a beautiful group in marble 
under a glass case, of the Virgin Martyr of the 
ocean wave, Margaret Wilson of Glenvarnock, 
and her sister Agnes, who preferred drowning, to 
renouncing their faith. An angel stands over 
them in a protecting attitude, while the faces of 
the young martyrs, are most saint-like in expres- 
sioui and full of holy faith. 

Glasgow. 

Our journey here has been delightful, and we 
feel that too much praise cannot be bestowed 
upon the weather, which is generally not agreea- 
ble at this season. Clear bright sunshine has 
been our portion, and we have greatly enjoyed 
^ our elevation on the top of a stage coach many 



SEEN WITH YOUNa EYES. 245 

miles of our way. From Callender we came to 
the castellated Hotel in the Trossachs, with the 
HBpronounceable name of Ardcheanachrochan, 
which means "the eminence at the end of the 
knoll." 

Loch Achray lies in quiet beauty in front of 
the house, and at the back is Ben Aan with its 
magnificent peak of bare rock. The drive all the 
way from Callender, was full of interest and 
beauty, and Roderick Dhu and James Fitz-James 
seemed real characters to us, as we followed their 
footsteps. We spent the night in this enchant- 
ing spot, and were put to sleep by the humming 
noise of a bagpipe beneath our window, which 
sounded much like a huge mosquito. If it be 
true, as Sir Walter Scott has said, that " High- 
landers reach the highest point of happiness 
when twenty-four bagpipe players are assembled 
together in a small room, all playing at the same 
time different tunes," we were thankful to have 
been spared such a musical treat. We found one 
quite sufl&cient. 

The next morning we drove through the 
magnificent defile of the Trossachs to Loch 
Katrinej which burst upon us in exquisite loveli- 
ness — " fair EUen's " isle, 



246 THE OLD WOEIiD 

" Where for retreat in dangerous hour 
Some chief had framed a rustic bower," 

being in full view. "We took a pleasant little 
steamer at the lake, and soon fonnd ourselves 
gazLag upon island, shore, and mountains "that 
like giants stand — " a combination of sylvan 
beauty and alpine grandeur. Loch Katrine is 
of a serpentine form, encircled by lofty moun- 
tains, and is ten miles in length. The immense 
quantities of fern upon the hills, in the yellow 
and brown coloring of autumn, gave a very 
pecuHar effect, while the lake itself, as we looked 
upon it from the deck of the steamboat, appeared 
almost black, so dark is the color of the water. 
We seemed to be, indeed, in the midst of an 
enchanted land ; and the hour spent upon that 
lovely lake was one of pure and perfect delight. 

*' So wondrous vnlA, the whole might seem 
The scenery of a fairy dream." 

At Stronachlachar Pier, near the west end of 
the lake, we were met by two coaches, prepared 
to convey passengers over the Highlands, and a 
scrambling for seats commenced which was both 
annoying and amusing. As we could only ascend 
to the top of the coach by means of a long ladder, 
the one vrho by dint of pushing others back^ 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 247 

succeeded in mounting first, of course secured a 
seat. There being room enough for all, however, 
no necessity existed for such a rudeness, and we 
were quite surprised to see it, and glad that our 
own coimtrymen were not the uncourteous ones 
on this occasion. At length we were all comfort- 
ably seated on the dizzy height, and di'oye fi^^e 
miles over a rugged road mth glorious views all 
the way, to Inversnaid. 

In a lonely spot, not far from the road, Rob 
Roy once resided, and near at hand is the hut 
where it is said his wife, Helen MacGregor, firat 
saw the light. We also passed the ruins of 
Inversnaid Fort, which was erected by govern- 
ment in seventeen hundred and thii-tecn, to 
check the MacGregors, and which was at one 
time the quarters of General Wolfe, of Quebec 
memory. We remained long enough at Invers- 
naid to wander about the pretty httle ri-sTilet 
and cascade, which Wordsworth has immortal- 
ized in his " Highland Girl," and then took the 
steamer on Loch Lomond, "the lake full of 
islands." This is called " the pride of Scottish 
Lakes," and filled as it is with beautiful islands, 
of every form and outline, lofty mountains 
stretching away ia the distance at the north, 



248 THE OLD WOKLD 

grand Ben Lomond towering above them all ; and 
at the south, all fertility and loveliness — it is, 
indeed, gloriously beautiful and sublime. 

There are many charming villas in full view, 
some of them situated on promontories, which 
jut out into the lake. Among them, is Kossdow, 
the splendid residence of Sir James Colquhoun ; 
a lovely spot. 

At Balloch, we took the cars for Glasgow, 
passing the grand old Castle of Dumbarton, 
securely seated upon a rocky eminence. 

We are now at a pleasant hotel on George's 
Square, which is spacious and prettily laid out, 
with a noble column in it, surmounted by a statue 
of Sir Walter Scott robed in a shepherd's plaid. 
There are also fine monuments to Sir John 
Moore and James Watts, standing in the square. 

Glasgow, for a manufacturing town, is quite 
handsome, and we have been much interested in 
the immense amount of shipping to be seen here 
at the mouth of the Clyde. They are also en- 
larging and beautifying the town very much, 
and it exhibits present thrift and prosperity, 
very strikingly. 

Kelvin Grove park is a charming spot, with 
many elegant residences overlooking it, and is a 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 249 

great place of resort; "Let us haste to Kelvin 
Grove, bonnie lassie, O," being evidently sung 
with good effect, to the fair maidens of Glasgow. 

The Cathedral is a striking relic of antiquity, 
commandingly situated, with a massive grandeiu' 
about it, but it is rather gloomy than otherwise. 
The crypts beneath are very extensive and 
graceful, and were intended as a place of Luter- 
ment for the dignitaries of the Cathedral, 

An old churchy apd called the Necropolis, rises 
in terraces back of the Cathedral, and in it are 
some very beautiful monuments, among which, 
one erected to the memory of John Knox ia 
most conspicuous. The cemetery, with its flow- 
ers, shrubbery, trees and gravel walks, looks 
more Hke a pleasure-ground, than, a resting- 
place for the dead. 

We have been struck here, as we were in 
Edinburgh, with the number of barefooted and 
ragged women, whom we meet in the streets. 
None but very well-dressed women seem to 
wear shoes and stockings at all, although the 
weather is now decidedly chilly. 

Glasgow abounds in rehgious, charitable, and 
philanthropic institutions, and we were much 
interested in the " Night Asylum for the House- 



250 THE OLD WOELD 

less," whicli was instituted thirty years ago for 
the benefit of the miserable beings "who are 
•without friends or shelter. All are admitted 
who apply, supper is provided for all, and break- 
fast for the women and children, as well as for 
such of the men as appear to be most in want. 
Often the applicants are quite respectable, but 
out of employment from no fault of their own, 
and this house affords them a temporary shel- 
ter. That it is needed, is shown from the fact 
that during the past year thirty-six thousand 
three hundred and forty-nkie persons have been 
received and cared for. Some of the lodgings 
are not very luxurious, as they consist of a 
wooden pillow upon a hard floor, with a coarse 
mat to wrap around the sleeper. The floor is 
divided into compartments, by a low board, 
which denotes the space each one is to occupy, 
and several men share the same room, which is 
thoroughly scrubbed every day. The women 
are rather better cared for, and everything is 
very neat and well arranged. They generally 
have more applications on Saturday nights than 
at other times, and there is a spacious chapel 
connected with the institution, in which they 
all assemble on Sunday morniug, for service. 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 251 

Ayr, September 28. 

We are again at one of the " pilgrim shrines " 
which it is impossible to visit without deep 
emotion. 

We find Ayr a pleasant iiourishing town, with 
its "twa brigs," immortalized by Burns, still 
standing, one of which was said to have been 
built in the twelfth century, and is a quaint- 
looking structure. There is httle in the town 
associated with Burns, so we drove at once 
to Alio way, where stands the "clay bigging" 
with its thatched roof, in which the poet was 
born. There are only two apartments in the 
house, both on the ground floor — one a kitchen, 
and the other a sitting-room. Both have very 
small windows, and very low ceilings. The kit- 
chen has a recess for a bed, and here Kobert 
Burns first opened his eyes upon a world which 
gave him little pleasure, but which remembers 
him now, with sympathy and tenderness. Near 
the cottage stands "Alloway's auld haunted 
kirk," with the walls well preserved, and no roof 
— a picturesque edifice, from one of the windows 
of which Tarn O'Shanter peeped at the witches. 
The wood-work has all been taken away to form 
snuff-boxes, and other memorials, and it has also 



252 THE OLD WORLD 

been necessary to replace the tombstone of 
Burns' father — the old one having been carried 
off in fragments. 

From the kirk we went to the monument, 
which stands on a bank of the river Doon, and 
IS of fine white freestone.. In a circular apart- 
ment, on the ground floor, are some reUcs of the 
poet — a most touching one being the Bible in 
two volumes, which Burns gave to his Highland 
Mary at their betrothal ; with his name, and 
masons' mark, in both volumes. The original 
copy of the familiar song, " Scots wha hae wi 
Wallace bled," in the hand-writing of the poet, 
with his interlineations and corrections, hangs 
upon the wall, in a fi^ame. A song, of which he 
modestly vrrites, when enclosing it to a friend — 
"I think it has some merit." 

On leaving the monument, we sat and strolled 
on the lovely banks of BoiSfeie Doon — stood ui:>on 
the " auld brig " — quoted snatches of songs and 
poems, and everything seemed to belong to 
Burns, and to be a part of his life and spirit. It 
was a great delight to appropriate the lines of 
Halleck— 

" I've stood beside the cottage bed, 
Where the bard-peasant first drew breath ; 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 253 

A straw-thatched roof above his head, 
A straw-wrought couch beneath. 

And I have stood beside the pile, 
His monument — that tells to Heaven 

The homage of earth's proudest isle, 
To that bard-peasant given !" 

Windermere. 

The queen of the English lakes lies in graceful 
beauty in full view from our hotel, and while 
it can hardly challenge admiration on the score 
of grandeur, it is a charming picture of quiet 
loveliness, upon which we are never weary of 
gazing. Although the largest of the cluster of 
lakes, it is only eleven miles in length, and one 
in breadth. Its margin is occupied by gentle 
eminences, which are cultivated wherever the 
trees have been cleared away, and villas and 
cottages gleaming amid the woods are visible 
in every direction, giving a cheerful character to 
the scene. It is not strange that poets should 
have sought this spot, and revelled in its beau- 
ties. 

Near our hotel, are the grounds of Professor 
Wilson, who spent much of his palmiest time 
here, and those must indeed have been gloi'ious 
days, when Sir Walter Scott, Canning, Lockhart, 
Wordsworth, Southey and Coleridge met here, 



254: THE OLD WORLD 

to enjoy with him "brilliant cavalcades through 
the woods in the mornings, and delicious boat- 
ings on the lake by moonlight." 

We have taken a charming drive to Keswick, 
passing Rydal, Grasmere, Thirlmere and Der- 
went water lakes, with their surroundings of 
mountains, fir-crested rocks, and fertile valleys. 
The whole way seemed classic ground, so associ- 
ated is that entire region with the bright spirits 
who have dwelt there. 

We visited Fox Howe, the favorite home of 
the noble Dr. Arnold, where he, every year, 
sought recreation and repose, from the cares of 
Rugby : the knoll where Harriet Martineau is 
resting after a busy and useful life, in an ivy- 
covered cottage, with a pretty lawn, and glorious 
views : Doves Nest, where Mrs. Hemans found 
peace and happiness for a time ; thus writing to 
a friend — "I am so delighted with this spot that 
I scarcely know how I shall leave it. The situ- 
ation is one of the deepest retirement ; but the 
bright lake l^efore me, with all its fairy barks 
and sails, glancing like ' things of life ' over its 
blue waters, prevents the solitude from being 
overshadowed by anything like sadness." 

Knab Cottage, where De Quincy once lived, 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 255 

and Hartley Coleridge died, is charmingly situ- 
ated near Rydal Lake, although so near the 
road, that there is but little shrubbery in front 
of it, in which it differs from most of the cot- 
tages in this neighborhood. Eydal Mount is 
now unoccupied, but we stood in the porch with 
the word " salve," upon its mosaic pavemoit, and 
thought of the noble poet of nature, who had so 
often stood there to welcome his guests, but who 
had been carried thence, never to return. From 
the little lawn in front of the cottage, we looked 
upon the view in which he delighted : Rydal 
Water at the foot of the hill, Windermere, the 
valley of the Rothay, and rugged Loughrigg. 
Then we walked upon the two Httle terraces, 
the favorite composing ground of the poet, and 
sat upon his favorite rustic seat, thinking of the 
charm he had given to all this scenery by his 
writings, and of his pure, loving nature. In the 
corner of Grasmere churchyard, we found his 
last resting-place, with the stream within hear- 
ing, whose song was so dear to him in life. He 
is surrounded by his family, and poor Hartley 
Coleridge lies near. 

Nothing could be more simple than the head- 
stones at the graves of the Wordsworth family, 



256 THE OLD WORLD 

and we were greatly toucted by an inscription on 
a little stone, near that of the poet : 

'•Herelieth the body of Thomas, the son of William 
and Mary Wordsworth. He died on the 1st of December, 
1812. 

" Six months to six years added, he remained 
Upon this sinful earth, by sin unstained. 
0, blessed Lord, whose mercy then removed 
A child whom every eye that looked on loved, 
Support us, teach us calmly to resign 
What we possessed, and now is wholly thine." 

We found Keswick a manufacturing town with 
a magnificent array of mountains about it, and 
cheerful, pleasant streets. Linsey-woolsey stuffs, 
edge-tools and pencils are made here, and the 
odor of cedar attracted us to the manufactory 
of the latter, where we saw the process of mak- 
ing them. 

Greta Hall stands on an eminence directly 
opposite the factory, and it was difficult to fix 
one's mind on cedar and plumbago, with the 
home of Southey so near. It is charmingly situ- 
ated on the banks of the river Greta, surrounded 
by scenery which combines both beauty and 
grandeur, and here the poet-laiu'eate passed 
many "golden days" in his happy home circle, 
with views from his windows which were of 
themselves ^ recreation to his mind, and a feast 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 257 

to the eye. How bright and cheerful he once 
made that home, his letters plainly show, and it 
is sad to think of the shadow which at last fell 
upon that " boy's heart," which, as he wrote to 
a friend, " is as great a blessing in carrying one 
through the world, as to have a child's spirit 
will be in fitting us for the next." 

In the Crosthwaite church, we saw the beauti- 
ful recumbent statue of Southey, and in the 
pleasant churchyard, with grand old Skiddaw in 
full view, his quiet grave. Near him, sleeps his 
beloved Edith, and the darling boy of ten, whose 
endearing quahties, singularly beautiful and 
gentle disposition, and wonderful aptitude for 
study, were such a source of heartfelt delight to 
his fond father — so much so, that on the day of 
his death, he says, in a letter communicating the 
sad intelhgence, "You are far from knowing 
how large a portion of my hopes and happiness 
will be laid in the grave with Herbert. For 
years it has been my daily prayer that I might 
be spared this affliction." Yet, long before, 
he had shown on whom he relied, in a letter to 
the same friend : " I have a deep conviction that 
whatever affliction I have ever endured, or yet 
have to endure, is dispensed to me in mercy and 
17 



258 THE OLD WOELD 

in love." The old sexton, as he took us to this 
peaceful resting-place, in that quiet churchyard, 
delighted in telling us of Southey's goodness, 
and of the noble little boy whom he remembered 
so well. 

Liverpool, Oct. 8. 

After an absence of five months, we find our- 
selves again beneath the pleasant roof which 
sheltered us when we had just commenced our 
wanderings. Now, with grateful hearts, we 
accept the same kind shelter, feeling how ten- 
derly we have been cared for, both on the sea 
and on the land. Our stay here has been diver- 
sified by a charming visit to Chester, the quaint 
old town, which was a Roman military station 
in the days of Julius Caesar. The wall which 
entirely surrounds the city, and is broad enough 
for a promenade, has been standing nearly a 
thousand years, and from it delightful views 
may be obtained in all directions. 

The houses are so quaint and peculiar, that 
one can hardly believe the town is really in Eng- 
land. The sidewalks are formed by the base- 
ments of the houses, and are roofed by their 
second stories. The covered ways, thus formed, 
aro lined with shops of every description, and 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 259 

above are the dwelling-liouses. In many in- 
stances, the upper story projects over the next 
lower, so that the occupants of the fourth floor, 
on opposite sides of the street, are brought very 
near together. Then there are narrow lanes and 
alleys — queer, antique houses, wnth. small dia- 
mond-shaped panes in the sashes. Every house, 
nearly, looking as if it had a history, and had 
stood for centuries. 

The Cathedral is a venerable structure, with 
crumbling walls, and huge ancient trees, grow- 
ing where some of the cloisters of the adjacent 
abbey stood. It contains many ancient monu- 
ments, rudely sculptured ; mosaic altar-pieces, 
painted glass, and is altogether a most curious 
and interesting specimen of past ages. 

Erom Chester, we went to the lovely Vale of 
Llangollen, stopping long enough at Euabon to 
walk to Wynnstay Park, the beautiful residence 
of Sir Watkin Williams Wynn, with a noble 
avenue of elms, three quarters of a mile long, 
leading to the house. The Vale of Llangollen, 
with the river Dee flowing through it, has long 
been celebrated for its beauty, and as we walked 
from the cars to the Hand Hotel, we felt that 
this must be, indeed, " the sweetest and quietest 



260 THE OLD WOKLD 

spot on earth " — one in wluch our willing souk 
would gladly stay for weeks, not days. But tliat 
was impossible ; so, during our brief sojourn we 
drank in all that we could, and remember with 
great delight our hurried visit to this charming 
vale. The beautiful and picturesque remains of 
Vale Ci'ucis Abbey, which was founded in twelve 
hundred, interested us very much. They are 
covered with ivy, and shaded with lofty ash 
trees, and there are some grim forms of 
knights sculptured in gray stone, lying upon the 
floor, which have been there for centuries, and 
are very curious. It was evidently a large and 
imposing structure at one time, and is lovely in 
its decay. 

We drove to Plas Newydd the pretty little 
cottage, with antique sculptures over the door, 
where the ladies of Llangollen, Lady Eleanor 
Butler and Miss Sarah Ponsouby, two women of 
wealth and high station, devoted their lives to 
each other for nearly threescore years ; and for 
a quarter of a century, never spent twenty-four 
hours at a time out of their happy valley. The 
situation of the house is very fine, and in the 
days of those elegant and cultivated ladies, the 
place must have been beautiful. Here, too, they 



SEEN WITH YOUNG EYES. 261 

were soiiglit by the first characters of the age, 
both as to rank and talents, whom they enter- 
tained with generous hospitality, while declaring 
that neither the long summer's day, nor winter's 
night, ever inspired a wish to returji to the 
world they had forsaken. A faithful servant 
lived with them thirty years, and now, beneath 
a triangular tomb, in the shadow of the old 
church, with the river Dee running merrily by, 
the ladies and their devoted friend rest together, 
side by side. The two friends were only sepa- 
rated by death a little more than two years ; 
Lady Eleanor Butler dying on the second of 
June, eighteen hundred and twenty-nine, aged 
ninety years, and Sarah Ponsonby, December 
ninth, eighteen hundred and thirty-one, aged 
seventy-six. Mary Carryl died in eighteen 
hundred and nine, and the inscription to her 
memory ends with the lines 

"Eeared by two friends, who will her loss bemoan, 
Till with her ashes, here shall rest their own." 

On Saturday, the tenth of October, we em- 
barked at Liverpool, on the noble steamship 
Russia again, for our homeward voyage. We 
reached Queenstown early on the morning of the 



262 THE OLD WOKLD 

eleventh, and remained there several hours. It 
■was a lovely day, and the harbor and surrounding 
country appeared very attractive. The confu- 
sion was so great that all religious service was 
omitted. This surprised us, as the English habit 
is very fixed in such matters. 

Irish women made theii* appearance on deck, 
with apples, laces, and bog-wood ornaments to 
sell, and drove a brisk trade. It reminded us of 
what we had so often seen on the continent, but 
were not quite prepared to see in Great Britain. 

Our passage home was enlivened by hard 
winds and an uneasy sea most of the way, but 
our splendid steamer weathered every gale, and 
on Wednesday, October twenty-first, we landed 
in New York. As we drove up Fifth Avenue, 
after a journey of just six months, which we 
shall always remember with the deepest grati- 
tude, one of our party exclaimed enthusiastically, 
" We have not seen so beautiful a street as this, 
anywhere r' To which there was no dissenting 
Toice, and we all felt glad and proud to say, 

" This is my own — my native land." 



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illustrated, 405 pages. $2. 
A rattling, merry story of the adventures of a midshipman of good family and 
gentle birth. Not a particle of vice in the whole narrative; just the book for a 
boy, who will devour the contents with breathless eagerness. A story that will 
leave its mark for good on a boy's mind and morals. A capital Christmas present, 
whether as a prize gift or otherwise. It is not often a tale of sea adventures is so 
healthy in its tone, so vigorous in its recital, so free from coarseness. It is a book 
very heartily to be commended, and Mr. Kingston has, in writing it, done some 
excellent service to mischief-loving, spirited boys, if they will but read it. — The 
Record. 

THE OLD WORLD SEEN WITH YOUNG 

EYES, With Sixteen Handsome Illustrations of Famous 
Places. i2mo, cloth, 262 pages. $1.50. 

A Diarj' of Travel in Europe, pleasantly written, and so full of interesting inci- 
dents, allusion, and historical information, that the writer may well challenge 
attention. Pretty pictures of famous places and things — being illustrations of 
noteworthy monuments — and thoughtful reflections adorn these modest, but really 
instructive pages. — New- 1 ork Observer. 

For travelers who intend to pass the summer vacation in visiting the same 
scenes, tfiere could hardly be a more agreeable companion in the shape of a book 
than this attractive volume; while to those who, perhaps more wisely, stay at 
home, it brings the chief enticements of a European holiday before their eyes, 
without the drawback of sea-sickness, dusty roads, and indifferent fare. — Tht 
Tribtme, N. V. 

T. WHITTAKER, 

2 Bible House, New-York. 



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